Doug71zt Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 That yoke is junk. With an open center there is hardly any material there. Powertrain industries has a yoke that is solid in the center and is a fair bit beefier that that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 (edited) I've broken an inner Z31 stub, overheated an inner CV (road course) and twisted 2 slip yokes, one of them completely and dropped it into my driveshaft loop. Not much available (nothing) to upgrade the rear yoke of the driveshaft, except by getting the newest, biggest factory replacement cast steel yoke available. There are a variety of input yokes for the R200 of varying size. I just went thru my pile of R200s til I found the largest one, and found a driveshaft shop that helped me find the corresponding (new) driveshaft yoke to fit it. Then, I found metric "grade 8" bolts to fit it and made sure the shoulder of the bolts crossed the junction between the two yokes to be joined. Then, I used a torque wrench to torque them up. For the slip yoke end, I now use a $200 treated billet yoke. Really sucks, cause in the next couple years I will be upgrading to a T56 Magnum and will need a new slip yoke too! Edited May 15, 2017 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 (edited) Jerry of jnjdragracing taught me to limit axle angles during launch. When drag racing, I raise my rear ride height so that the axle squats toward being straight, instead of beyond straight. I run a stiffer rear spring and shock that stock, and I have installed bumpstops to further stiffen the rear rate on launch. Then I run 11-14# of air in bias ply slicks, so the tires absorb most of the weight transfer and the driveline shock. Drag radials are a quick way to break stuff. The photos of the brown car show how much the stock suspension gets goofed up during launch. Amazingly, it still hooks up well even with all this camber! But driveline angles become dangerously stressed. Compare this to my avatar photo-there's still some camber and toe deflection, but not nearly as much. Edited May 15, 2017 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SH4DY Posted September 27, 2019 Share Posted September 27, 2019 I know this is an old thread but does anyone know the part numbers or where to find the inner bearings? Both the tripod and the caged bearings. I have the Trakmotive (Rock Auto) NI8442 (NI-8442) and NI8435 (NI-8435). I got the passenger side apart pretty easily but the snap ring must be bound up in the outer driver's side end. Wound up hitting it hard enough the cage shattered and ball bearings went flying. And even then the inner part of the bearing still won't budge from the axle. Any help would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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