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SH4DY

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SH4DY last won the day on December 12 2018

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About SH4DY

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    Richmond, VA

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  1. NOT rattle cans. Because of some extenuating circumstances (I bought a house) I was recently forced to ramp up some parts of my project in order to get the car movable to the new location. Part of the dilemma was having an assembled LS6 on an engine stand without a great way to move it. So, I decided to finish up the engine bay (didn't want to paint with motor installed) so I could install the motor/trans for ease of transport. I had done quite a bit of research on engine bay paints and auto paints in general and kept coming back to the Rusto jobs for a few reasons: Ease of touch ups: this car is going to be a driver, which means turning wrenches and wear and tear so there are bound to be scuff/ scratches. Cost: ties into the above but it was also going to be $150 just in materials for the engine bay using the same paint I had planned on doing on the body. Durability: When done properly, I keep reading that the proper Rusto mix can be as hard as tractor paint (read: tough as nails). Current conditions: It's cold here. Full winter mode which doesn't play well will most automotive pants (typically need 60*+). It was 55* in the garage when I sprayed the bay (with the help of a space heater) and hasn't been above 45 degrees in the past week and a half. So, I elected to use the 8:4:1 method. 8 Parts paint (Rustoleum Satin Black), 4 parts reducer(Duplicolor BG906), 1 part hardener (Omni MH202). Hardener was the most expensive part by far ($40/pint) but I've got a bunch left over so that's a plus. Applied with a good old HF HPLV $14.95 spray gun @ 40psi at the gun First pictures are after the second coat was applied and still wet. After about an hour: It look a solid 30-45 minutes to flash in between coats (again, cold). After 24 hours it wasn't fingernail hard but a week later it's just as hard as the factory paint on my Tahoe. I have enough left to do the interior, but I'm not sure if I'll do the exterior in it (wouldn't be black. Maybe the dark gray). Anyway, we'll see how it holds up trying to get the motor in and I'l report back.
  2. That was my initial plan (180* headers) but incorporating tri-y's and reverse megaphone collectors. I have the top part of the tri-y's done and the collectors (1-5/8" to 1-3/4" to 2.5" collector entry iirc - I haven't messed with them since the summer). I have room between the pan the subframe but I'm still on the fence about actually doing the cross over. It's at least 3' of additional piping. I kept the piping relatively small to help keep the velocity up but now I think with the megaphones and a good x pipe I can maximize the curve/ move it to the right (cam should make steam to 7,500). In hindsight, if I knew I was ditching the crossover I would have gone 1-3/4" -> 1-7/8" step. It's an 11.0:1 Gen 3 LS (383 stroker) with ITB's.
  3. SH4DY

    Broken 4340 Stub Axle threads

    Just to update: WHP advised me to try to torque the other stub axle per FSM specs and see if it would fail as well. And it did. Except I realized that my wrench only goes up to 150 lbs/ft so the initial failure was also at less torque than I thought. Anyway, this one didn't fail as spectacularly: I torqued to 150, then tried the hub resistance in 1/4 turn increments. On the 3rd or 4th try, the resistance fell of significantly and I thought the threads had stripped. Nope, it just split about half way into the nut so it was still partially threaded. They are supposed to be making a new batch and shipping me some.
  4. SH4DY

    Broken 4340 Stub Axle threads

    I agree. Next time around if there isn't any in/out play at 180lb/ft I'm going to let it ride.
  5. SH4DY

    Broken 4340 Stub Axle threads

    Mike @ Whitehead got back to me this morning ( Sunday- that's pretty solid customer service) and said they had a batch of 27 spline axles that had been annealed incorrectly and were all recalled. Mine was the first reported 39 spline failure but he sent them the pictures I took to see if it is a similar defect. If so, they'll probably replace them. I keep this updated.
  6. SH4DY

    Broken 4340 Stub Axle threads

    This just happened to me today installing my WHP 39 spline chromoly stub axles (ZXT companion flange). Installed at 180lb/ft, then gradually tightened until 750g breakaway weight at the hub per manual (maybe another 1/3 turn). And NOT using an impact. 3 hours later I hear POW! and find the flange and nut on the ground. Fortunately the car is sans drivetrain right now and on jack stands ie 0 miles, no burnouts, launches, etc. I emailed WHP but its the weekend so, waiting for monday. Wanted to add to the thread though in case there is a common vendor issue. Very odd coloration at the fracture...
  7. SH4DY

    '77 280Z - wonky doors

    Just a quick update: after looking at the alignment of the inner portion of the door compared to the opening (all factory) - the gaps were all over the place on the passenger side. Driver's side was even all around. I'm wondering if the door had been previously altered and I didn't catch it before I started working on it. Either way, I ordered an unmolested passenger side door off e bay. Should be here in couple days. It'll be the test about whether its the chassis of the door that's screwed up.
  8. SH4DY

    '77 280Z - wonky doors

    The problem with moving the door forward is that then the window frame hits the A-pillar (the actual window frame, not the weather stripping). The picture above of the passenger side door is metal on metal on the inside, no striker and no weather stripping. Once I add the weatherstrip it will make it stick out past the quarters. I guess I'm going to have to clay it or something to see exactly where it's hitting and go from there.
  9. SH4DY

    '77 280Z - wonky doors

    It was stationery during the whole process. If it did twist, it wasn't along the length of it, it would be like the front and rear are no longer in line. The hatch fits perfectly though, no taper top to bottom that i can tell. The really dusty pictures are the drivers side. Both sides have the strikers removed and are being pushed closed. Its odd. Passenger side: Drivers side:
  10. Does anyone else have issues with their doors closing, without any weather stripping? After replacing rockers, quarters, etc, I put the doors back on and after lots of fighting and persuasion I can get the panel gaps and alignment (when looking at the side of the car) pretty close but one side is way off from the other in terms of how far in the door sits when fully closed. The door mounting points on the doors and chassis are factory metal as are the door jamb areas. The issue I'm having is that the drivers side door will sit in a healthy 1/2" when fully closed where as the passenger side door sits a little proud. And that is without the striker installed. The passenger side door hits the door sill about half way down and I can't close it any further. I'll try to take some pictures to help explain but has anyone else run into this? I can't find any doors locally and the only ones I can find online are 240Z doors that have different latches and may be different dimensionally. Thanks
  11. It's been a while since I've posted anything but not because of a lack of progress: Floor and tunnel are done. I took everything back to base metal and epoxy primed: . Some added reinforcement: TTT Goodies WHP Chromoly 39 Spline stub axles and Z31T CV conversion. New wheel bearings all around MFactory LSD is in the mail (Thanks to user exlifesaver) Block is back from the machine shop and I've started the short block assembly. Still need to finish working the heads before I take them to get valve job done. Still have a ton of body work to go before I can prime but she's coming along. Little teaser shot of the ITB's
  12. Compared to everyone else's it seems at least. Finally at the point in my build where I need to pull the trigger on wheels before going too much further with the body work to make sure everything fits. The problem is what I'm measuring doesn't jive with what everyone else is using. An example is a 16x8 +0et wheel. From everything I've read and the pictures I've seen, that should be about flush with stock fenders. However, when I measure clearances (using Wed autobahn 15x7 +10et) I get the following: Front: inner: 25mm outer: flush Rear: inner: 25mm outer: 5mm This is a 280z with coilovers. So, when I run that through an offset calculator, I should be looking at 16x8 +20 et wheels to be flush and take up the inboard space. So, how is my offset needed off 20mm from everone else? Thanks
  13. Got the roll bar in and started stitch welding the existing panels that were in good shape and adding more metal for rigidity. I'll be adding some gussets to the "X" and adding additional bars. Also, starting working on the floor pans with some DIY metal forming. Crazy how much stiffer the sheet is with the formed areas. I also had to make more room on the top of the trans tunnel for the bell housing. This weekend I hope to finish up the roll bar and get both rockers finished then I can start on the floor pans and rear quarters. On to the pictures:
  14. SH4DY

    Alternator wiring

    https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1875107-c6-corvette-alternator-wiring.html#post19706842
  15. Drivers side header before coating. Still need to add the crossover piece and tabs to lock in the slip fit connectors. Reverse cone collectors. Pretty pumped about these. First attempt at making dimple dies. Very DIY setup: a big bolt in a vice, an old bearing and race and a big ass wrench. I'm going to be adding them to the roll bar around the "X". Need to get a smaller bearing/ race for smaller areas. More rust, rust rust: I finally moved the car into the garage. It's getting cold here.
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