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SH4DY last won the day on December 12 2018

SH4DY had the most liked content!

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About SH4DY

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    Richmond, VA

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  1. <- Page 7 If anyone else comes across this, Toolman's build thread is pretty incredible and definitely worth checking out. The amount of time involved and the level of skill is humbling. Truly incredible work.
  2. Right, it would be the full cover. The 303D is supposed to have the openings continue further in I think. I know Skillard makes some adapters for the gauges. I've been in touch with him about his rear diffuser. Also, Hampton is right down the road - I'm in Richmond.
  3. My dash is a fubar'ed casualty of trying to make a mold. The metal subframe is fine, but the foam top layer is long gone. So I was wondering if anyone has tried to just use a Dash cap (Accuform 303D) and secure it to the frame? I imagine I'd need to fiberglass in some mounting provisions but beyond that, any issues that would come to mind? Factory HVAC/ radio have been ditched. Aftermarket (speedhut) gauges (2 x 4.5" and 3 x 2-5/8").
  4. Good stuff man. I follow you on Instagram. Do you also happen to be a former norotors member? I was a member over there for 4 years or so.
  5. Agreed with the above. I bought mine as a rusted out roller and 2 years and $25k+ later it still isn't to a point of running/ driving under its own power. And my build isn't even close to the craziest build on here. Probably middle of road really. If you have a running/ driving car, just enjoy it for now and upgrade as you go but plan ahead. i.e. you want to upgrade your brakes, but now you need bigger wheels to accommodate, and extended wheel studs, and may as well replace the stub axles, and maybe do a CV conversion, and flares to fit the wider wheels, and coilovers, etc etc. Its a VERY slippery slope.
  6. Jeff, I've been following your channel since the DIY mandrel pipe bender. Always good stuff. Your Z has come a long way from the time it rolled into your shop. Definitely inspiration for the days when I want to give up on mine.
  7. Still waiting. I had ordered mine through Mike at WHP. Was told back in December the new batch should be done by the middle/ end of February but have yet to get a confirmed ship date. I'm actually wanting to upgrade to the 300M units now after this but apparently those had to be made as well. So I wait.
  8. Improved Racing crank scraper and windage tray: AN adapter on clutch slave: aaandd MOTOR IS IN!!!! Now it's time to start fighting the rusted jam nuts on the steering rack. Will probably be a job for the grinder...
  9. Some updates. Progress has been slow in the winter months but its still coming along. MFactory LSD: F Body fuel tank installed: Engine bay is done: Motor is together: K1 lightweight rods, Wiseco pistons, Wagner CNC'ed 799's w/ Ti Valves (should flow 320+ CFM):
  10. NOT rattle cans. Because of some extenuating circumstances (I bought a house) I was recently forced to ramp up some parts of my project in order to get the car movable to the new location. Part of the dilemma was having an assembled LS6 on an engine stand without a great way to move it. So, I decided to finish up the engine bay (didn't want to paint with motor installed) so I could install the motor/trans for ease of transport. I had done quite a bit of research on engine bay paints and auto paints in general and kept coming back to the Rusto jobs for a few reasons: Ease of touch ups: this car is going to be a driver, which means turning wrenches and wear and tear so there are bound to be scuff/ scratches. Cost: ties into the above but it was also going to be $150 just in materials for the engine bay using the same paint I had planned on doing on the body. Durability: When done properly, I keep reading that the proper Rusto mix can be as hard as tractor paint (read: tough as nails). Current conditions: It's cold here. Full winter mode which doesn't play well will most automotive pants (typically need 60*+). It was 55* in the garage when I sprayed the bay (with the help of a space heater) and hasn't been above 45 degrees in the past week and a half. So, I elected to use the 8:4:1 method. 8 Parts paint (Rustoleum Satin Black), 4 parts reducer(Duplicolor BG906), 1 part hardener (Omni MH202). Hardener was the most expensive part by far ($40/pint) but I've got a bunch left over so that's a plus. Applied with a good old HF HPLV $14.95 spray gun @ 40psi at the gun First pictures are after the second coat was applied and still wet. After about an hour: It look a solid 30-45 minutes to flash in between coats (again, cold). After 24 hours it wasn't fingernail hard but a week later it's just as hard as the factory paint on my Tahoe. I have enough left to do the interior, but I'm not sure if I'll do the exterior in it (wouldn't be black. Maybe the dark gray). Anyway, we'll see how it holds up trying to get the motor in and I'l report back.
  11. That was my initial plan (180* headers) but incorporating tri-y's and reverse megaphone collectors. I have the top part of the tri-y's done and the collectors (1-5/8" to 1-3/4" to 2.5" collector entry iirc - I haven't messed with them since the summer). I have room between the pan the subframe but I'm still on the fence about actually doing the cross over. It's at least 3' of additional piping. I kept the piping relatively small to help keep the velocity up but now I think with the megaphones and a good x pipe I can maximize the curve/ move it to the right (cam should make steam to 7,500). In hindsight, if I knew I was ditching the crossover I would have gone 1-3/4" -> 1-7/8" step. It's an 11.0:1 Gen 3 LS (383 stroker) with ITB's.
  12. Just to update: WHP advised me to try to torque the other stub axle per FSM specs and see if it would fail as well. And it did. Except I realized that my wrench only goes up to 150 lbs/ft so the initial failure was also at less torque than I thought. Anyway, this one didn't fail as spectacularly: I torqued to 150, then tried the hub resistance in 1/4 turn increments. On the 3rd or 4th try, the resistance fell of significantly and I thought the threads had stripped. Nope, it just split about half way into the nut so it was still partially threaded. They are supposed to be making a new batch and shipping me some.
  13. I agree. Next time around if there isn't any in/out play at 180lb/ft I'm going to let it ride.
  14. Mike @ Whitehead got back to me this morning ( Sunday- that's pretty solid customer service) and said they had a batch of 27 spline axles that had been annealed incorrectly and were all recalled. Mine was the first reported 39 spline failure but he sent them the pictures I took to see if it is a similar defect. If so, they'll probably replace them. I keep this updated.
  15. This just happened to me today installing my WHP 39 spline chromoly stub axles (ZXT companion flange). Installed at 180lb/ft, then gradually tightened until 750g breakaway weight at the hub per manual (maybe another 1/3 turn). And NOT using an impact. 3 hours later I hear POW! and find the flange and nut on the ground. Fortunately the car is sans drivetrain right now and on jack stands ie 0 miles, no burnouts, launches, etc. I emailed WHP but its the weekend so, waiting for monday. Wanted to add to the thread though in case there is a common vendor issue. Very odd coloration at the fracture...
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