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SH4DY

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SH4DY last won the day on December 12 2018

SH4DY had the most liked content!

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About SH4DY

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    Richmond, VA

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  1. So I've got the OBX (Jenvey knock off) ITB's for my LS6 based motor and I'm trying to sort out a better way to tie the throttle bodies together. I can take pictures later but right now, the throttle shafts are tied together by a little arm on the first TB that presses up on a set screw on the next throttle body to open the blade. Then the second presses on the 3rd and so on. Then, there is a (flimsy) piece that sits on the top side so when the first TB closes it'll coax the second one to close as well if the spring tension isn't enough. I get that the set crew is there to balance the throttle bodies BUT I have drilled and tapped every runner (about 2" off the head as that was the only place with enough meat to tap) and have 5/16" vacuum line tying them all together at a distribution block. I did this for a couple of reasons: one, I didn't want to run only Alpha-N so I needed a MAP reference and two, I thought it would help balance the runners. (And maybe my logic is jacked here but if you have a high vacuum and introduce a lower vacuum ( a leak essentially) then the higher vacuum can only pull as much as the lower). And if this holds true, then I wouldn't need to sync each throttle independently and I could have a rigid linkage between the throttles for a crisper response instead of the daisy chain approach. Thoughts?
  2. Is that 2,600# with driver? I had always thought these were around 2,300-2,400# wet. Also, I'm really digging the wheel/ tire combo. Mind sharing the specs on those?
  3. So I think I've got one of the weird long nose R200's with a rectangular flange with 8mm holes. It seems like most people use the Neapco 2-2-899-1 I measured (on my back, under the car so take with a grain of salt): Pilot 2.227" Flange is 1.807"x 2.1" and 2.799" diagonally. .308" bolt holes. With that information, I reached out to northern drivetrain and they actually recommended this: https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/PTI-1202-39.html A Subaru flange. And not with the 1310 ends which is going to make matching to a t56 trans a chore. So, do I just go with the 2-2-899-1 or try the one above? Actually, as I type this the 899-1 is pretty damn close. But I've already typed this, so...
  4. Alright, so in my infinite wisdom (read: very flawed) I had planned on tying into the Speedhut sensor harnesses for ECT and oil pressure inputs for the MS3pro. But, now that I'm looking at the wiring diagrams, the MS3 has a dedicated sensor return/ground whereas the Speedhut gauges just use chassis ground ( at least on the gauge side). Now I'm kind of stuck as I'm concerned sharing potentially dissimilar ground planes may screw up more important readings like the cam/crank signals. So, I've got three options as I see it: Try tying both the signal and return/ground together (ms3 sensor input and speedhut sensor harness) in the gauge harness before the gauge. Run the sensor right to the MS3 and try to use one of the analog outputs to replicate the sensor output to the Speedhut harness. Suck it up and run a dedicated ECT and oil pressure sensor for the MS3pro. Anyone else run into this?
  5. Just a small update: Dash cap finally arrived - Accuform 303D. It looks the part, but holy hell is it flimsy. I'm going to have to reinforce it a great deal to have any kind of rigidity. I still may wind up trying to find another busted dash to put in as a support. Which will likely involve some of the West Systems specialty epoxies *joy*
  6. What other cost effective options are out there other than hoping to find some used ones on ebay or craigslist? I found some new (?) ones on ebay but with shipping it's going to wind up being close to $900. The Black Dragon site won't let you buy them (nothing happens when you click "add to cart". Are they still in business?) Z Store says they aren't available. I don't see them on the Retrospec site anymore. Z Car Depot - $305 per side +freight shipping Z Car Source - $659 per side Z Trix - $480 per side and wider than stock I have the replacement lower panels and I may be able to salvage the Driver's side but the passenger side is beyond hope. My dilemma is that with the cost of freight, I may as well get both since the shipping will be the same. Just wondering (hoping) there are other options out there besides the ones listed above.
  7. I sent Mike the money for the difference between the 300M units and chromoly almost three weeks ago and I'm still waiting on shipping information...
  8. <- Page 7 If anyone else comes across this, Toolman's build thread is pretty incredible and definitely worth checking out. The amount of time involved and the level of skill is humbling. Truly incredible work.
  9. Right, it would be the full cover. The 303D is supposed to have the openings continue further in I think. I know Skillard makes some adapters for the gauges. I've been in touch with him about his rear diffuser. Also, Hampton is right down the road - I'm in Richmond.
  10. My dash is a fubar'ed casualty of trying to make a mold. The metal subframe is fine, but the foam top layer is long gone. So I was wondering if anyone has tried to just use a Dash cap (Accuform 303D) and secure it to the frame? I imagine I'd need to fiberglass in some mounting provisions but beyond that, any issues that would come to mind? Factory HVAC/ radio have been ditched. Aftermarket (speedhut) gauges (2 x 4.5" and 3 x 2-5/8").
  11. Good stuff man. I follow you on Instagram. Do you also happen to be a former norotors member? I was a member over there for 4 years or so.
  12. Agreed with the above. I bought mine as a rusted out roller and 2 years and $25k+ later it still isn't to a point of running/ driving under its own power. And my build isn't even close to the craziest build on here. Probably middle of road really. If you have a running/ driving car, just enjoy it for now and upgrade as you go but plan ahead. i.e. you want to upgrade your brakes, but now you need bigger wheels to accommodate, and extended wheel studs, and may as well replace the stub axles, and maybe do a CV conversion, and flares to fit the wider wheels, and coilovers, etc etc. Its a VERY slippery slope.
  13. Jeff, I've been following your channel since the DIY mandrel pipe bender. Always good stuff. Your Z has come a long way from the time it rolled into your shop. Definitely inspiration for the days when I want to give up on mine.
  14. Still waiting. I had ordered mine through Mike at WHP. Was told back in December the new batch should be done by the middle/ end of February but have yet to get a confirmed ship date. I'm actually wanting to upgrade to the 300M units now after this but apparently those had to be made as well. So I wait.
  15. Improved Racing crank scraper and windage tray: AN adapter on clutch slave: aaandd MOTOR IS IN!!!! Now it's time to start fighting the rusted jam nuts on the steering rack. Will probably be a job for the grinder...
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