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SH4DY

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SH4DY last won the day on June 17 2019

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About SH4DY

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    Richmond, VA

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  1. Just a few more pictures of the defrost vent and the fuse box situation. The defroster works really well - needed it on Saturday going to Cars and Coffee (temps in the 40's in the morning). The center console is also installed (finally have cup holders again!!) but it's going to need some massaging and maybe some extra padding under the carpet in some spots to make it look like it really belongs in there.
  2. Little more complete picture. For the heater/ defrost I'm using a Vintage Air unit (gen II heater). You can see in the picture the aluminum piece where the dash meets the window gasket. I used the little ducts that come with the heater and notched the dash for them to fit, then secured them to the trim piece and drilled some holes. The ducts are pretty small - maybe a 6" opening, .5" wide or so. Fuse panel is now mounted behind the glove box and I'm still working on getting the center console installed (had to cut out the factory mounting points for it to sit flush with the tunnel).
  3. Inspired by @clocker thread, and a $50 dash I found on Craigslist, I decided to try and tackle the NB ('98-'05) Miata dash and center console swap. Width size, it's pretty much perfect although as he points out, if the dash is centered in the car, the gauge cluster winds up being right of center. Not the end of the world though. I also had to trim the back of the dash to fit the contour of the Z firewall. Maybe .5" or in the center and closer to 1"-1.5" at the ends. Even the center console fits almost perfectly. After I was happy with where the dash was, I then modi
  4. Fan is off and it's that cold. Has nothing to do with the fan. Stopping the coolant from flowing through the heater core via the heater controls seems to keep it in the 160-170 range which I'm OK with.
  5. You guys are missing what I'm saying - the cooling system is cooling too well. It's getting too cold. I'm not worried about the temps during stop and go traffic - I'm more concerned about the coolant temps not getting above 150 on a cool night.
  6. Standard practice for the last few LS swaps I've done to help maximize cooling with less than ideal radiator setups. When not using a heater core (more full race oriented), the absence of the additional coolant volume becomes apparent pretty quickly at low speeds. Drilling holes is the step between a stock t-stat or just running a disc to slightly restrict the flow. This setup has an unshrouded fan. 5/8" coolant hoses to a Vintage Air heater/defrost unit. Originally I just had the t-stat housing looped but adding the heater core dropped coolant temps 10-15 degrees when sitting in traffi
  7. ...again though, all of that goes out the window (the venturi primarily) when running an aftermarket pump/ external fuel pressure regulator (which most people run when doing swaps) because the internal regulator gets bypassed. On a stock F-body, sure, I'm sure it works great. But we are flipping the tank 180 degrees making fuel more prone to move away from the basket and in my case (or anyone with a different pump and external FPR) modifying the basket. Feel free to keep it all stock, I'm just telling you that with high power/ high grip, you're going to have issues unless you modify it.
  8. You are right in that the pump sits in an enclosure but it's not a sealed "bucket" - there are passages to let fuel in from the bottom and unfortunately if running one of the bigger Walbro units, there is trimming needed that can do away with the check valve (its just a small rubber flap) so fuel can drain from the bottom if not submerged. You could probably seal it if you wanted but then you'd be only relying on the return fuel to fill it. Not ideal on a thirsty motor depending on the racing you're doing. There's always the option of running a surge tank as well. Also, my issues
  9. I'm also running this tank and under hard acceleration with less than 1/2 a tank, there is a ton of fuel movement (gauge will go to empty). And, being a plastic tank, not really much you can do to modify it in terms of baffling. I basically can't run less than 3/8 a tank if I plan on really racing the car. I also cheated the fuel level sending unit to read slightly lower than it is just for some safety. I have yet to try some of the Fuel Safe foam blocks to dampen the movement (had bad experiences with cheaper foams breaking down with race gas), but they should help - just need to stay o
  10. Any of you guys have issues with the radiator overcooling? I'm running the Champion radiator with a drilled (4 small holes the size of the jiggle pin hole) 180 degree stat and FAL Hurricane fan. During the summer it would get to 205-210 if sitting in traffic and ambient temps were 85+: not ideal but I could live with it because as soon as you get going over 30mph the temps go down to 175 and hold. The problem now is that the ambient temps are getting in the lower 60's at night and while cruising, the coolant temps are getting down to 140-150 unless I close the valve to the heater core.
  11. I took it to the first cars and coffee meet of the season and a photographer there got some really good shots of it on IG: https://www.picuki.com/media/2346689941668111156 Some more exterior pics after wet sanding, cutting, buffing and waxing: As far as the MAP signal: I tapped every runner and have them run to a vacuum manifold on the firewall. Clean signal. I'm running in "ITB" mode on the MS3Pro - its blended between MAP and TPS. On my car pretty much anything over 15-20% throttle is 90+kpa so the tps tuning is a must. I lowered the coil dwell t
  12. Lot's of changes and developments over the past few months. Lot's of Skillard stuff, Redid the headers/ exhaust (single side exit now), went to the dyno.. All kinds of stuff. Oil Catch can I made to fit in the factory washer reservoir spot: WHP axles (left) vs ZXT remans Skillard front splitter (2") and the side market deletes off eBay (I think a member on here?) Interior shot with the dash I made using the factory substructure: I changed up the headers/ exhaust quite a bit - now they are 1.75"->1.875" with multiple merges. I went thi
  13. Not much has been going on with this lately. My cheapo eBay radiator has a leak in the core (Champion 3 row ordered) and my Speed Hut tach was doing some crazy things (they sent me a filter I have yet to try out). I wound up having to use the '10 Mustang GT e-brake lines to get my parking brake to work with the Silvermine BBK (SN197 Mustang rears). I'm also converting all the brake lines to -3AN (hard line) ends. Car still isn't close to driving though as I'm STILL (7+ weeks) waiting on my shortened axles from WHP. Supposed to be here sometime next week. We will see. Brakes should be done by t
  14. Alright, now that I have the car running: You absolutely need to have each throttle body adjustable. It will run like absolute dog sh*t unless they are synced, per bank and bank to bank. And the adjustments are very small, like 1/4 turn on an M4 bolt. I also went through the painstaking process of drilling and tapping every single runner and then tied them into a vacuum manifold to get a good MAP sensor reading. No Alpha-N needed, it tracks on the VE just like a normal manifold does but you need to ramp up the tps accel enrichment because it revs very, very quickly. Getting the cros
  15. I know this is an old thread but does anyone know the part numbers or where to find the inner bearings? Both the tripod and the caged bearings. I have the Trakmotive (Rock Auto) NI8442 (NI-8442) and NI8435 (NI-8435). I got the passenger side apart pretty easily but the snap ring must be bound up in the outer driver's side end. Wound up hitting it hard enough the cage shattered and ball bearings went flying. And even then the inner part of the bearing still won't budge from the axle. Any help would be appreciated.
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