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SH4DY

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SH4DY last won the day on June 17

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About SH4DY

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    Richmond, VA

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  1. Not much has been going on with this lately. My cheapo eBay radiator has a leak in the core (Champion 3 row ordered) and my Speed Hut tach was doing some crazy things (they sent me a filter I have yet to try out). I wound up having to use the '10 Mustang GT e-brake lines to get my parking brake to work with the Silvermine BBK (SN197 Mustang rears). I'm also converting all the brake lines to -3AN (hard line) ends. Car still isn't close to driving though as I'm STILL (7+ weeks) waiting on my shortened axles from WHP. Supposed to be here sometime next week. We will see. Brakes should be done by then and hopefully I can get it on the dyno some time in December. Starting to get burned out working on this damn thing. This car has been nothing but delays and problems. Gave up on the custom dash for now, went for function over fashion: Got the exhaust finished:
  2. Alright, now that I have the car running: You absolutely need to have each throttle body adjustable. It will run like absolute dog sh*t unless they are synced, per bank and bank to bank. And the adjustments are very small, like 1/4 turn on an M4 bolt. I also went through the painstaking process of drilling and tapping every single runner and then tied them into a vacuum manifold to get a good MAP sensor reading. No Alpha-N needed, it tracks on the VE just like a normal manifold does but you need to ramp up the tps accel enrichment because it revs very, very quickly. Getting the crossover linkage sorted out was also a massive pain in the ass. If I did it again I might flip the TB's 90* and use an adjustable heim joint or something like this: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15795/10002/-1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx9e22LT55AIVFIrICh0mgAz7EAQYBSABEgKwhfD_BwE But, for the minimal amount of driving I'll realistically be doing, the current set up should be fine for now.
  3. I know this is an old thread but does anyone know the part numbers or where to find the inner bearings? Both the tripod and the caged bearings. I have the Trakmotive (Rock Auto) NI8442 (NI-8442) and NI8435 (NI-8435). I got the passenger side apart pretty easily but the snap ring must be bound up in the outer driver's side end. Wound up hitting it hard enough the cage shattered and ball bearings went flying. And even then the inner part of the bearing still won't budge from the axle. Any help would be appreciated.
  4. Making some progress again. I've spent the last month trying to get the body sorted out and painted. It has definitely tested my patience. First time I sprayed it, it came out like shit because I didn't spend enough time blocking the primer. Sanded it all back flat and sprayed again. Was pretty happy but burned through the paint prepping to cut and buff it. Wet sanded it all with 400 grit and pictures below are the 3rd try. It's a single stage so there's orange peel put plenty of paint to cut and buff it after it cures. Started working on a fiberglass/ carbon dash skin. Motor runs: I ran it out of gas syncing the throttle bodies and thought I had screwed something up. Definitely need to get the gas gauge hooked up. I did learn than the lines hold roughly a gallon of gas... Still a long way from driving but she runs and she's all one color so that's a plus. MS3Pro and engine fuses/ relay panel:
  5. Well, after talking with WHP their kit does require shortened axles even though the site doesn't specifically say they are required when using their CV conversion flange. I'm going to try and shorten them myself (cutting in the c clip groove further down the splined portion as outlined on this site) - I'm sick of throwing money at these damn axles. If I can get them at least a 1/2" shorter I can increase the track with the RLCA's and should be fine. I'll report back.
  6. I finally got around to installing the upgraded WHP 39 spline stub axles with the zxt inner hubs. When I initially installed the axles they were too long (or the rlcas were too short) to get the coilovers to line back up in the strut towers. The picture above is how far I had to adjust them out to get everything to fit. Right now the axle is horizontal but the ride height needs to come down another 1" at least. That should help get the axles above horizontal at the hub and help with binding but I still think it'll be close. Can anyone chime in about your rlca measurements (i don't have the stock ones to measure) or see if the above looks about right? More pictures to get an idea of current camber and height:
  7. Alright, so I think the game plan is: Straighten out the cap and get the alignment and fitment sorted. Use the frame and cap as a clam shell for a plug form(apply a bunch of packing tap, and then mold release on opposing sides). Pop the plug out, smooth over, epoxy/glass, add mounting provisions and then finish coat (paint, carbon, maybe a little of both? Sounds simple, right?
  8. Fast forward and Clutch master is mounted, headers and ITB's are on, fuel lines are ordered and hoping for a first fire in the next coupld of weeks
  9. Well, I started down the path. We'll call it progress. Initial rough up and flame treat. The backing pieces were secured with plastic weld epoxy initially and then gone over with alternating layers of the g/flex 655 and West 105/207 and glass with sanding in between. If I had to do it over I would have just made some 90 degree brackets with thin metal and epoxied those on added rigidity. And what it looked like before the finish cuts for the gauges. Between all the layers, the back plates are probably between 1/8" -1/4" thick. Plenty sturdy enough for the gauges. Now I'm at kind of an impasse about how to secure it to the frame. Originally I had planned on using the factory mounting holes and putting tapped spacers in between the cap and the dash and then securing with a bolt. But, between the cover not fitting perfectly to begin with, and then slightly warping with the flame treat it's off enough that the glove box won't line up. I'm not concerned about the center panel since I was just going to make a flat plate there either way but the whole thing is pretty flimsy. I can heat again and probably get it close but it will involve adding a lot of support to get rid of the flex if I don't address the void. So, now I'm toying with filling the void between the cap and frame with expanding foam to help with the rigidity. But with that comes issues about making sure the alignment is dead nuts before the pour, making sure the materials are compatible and will bond, etc etc. Pain in the ass is what this is...
  10. At $800 +shipping across the country, that's still a little rich for my blood. I'm still going to try and doctor the current Accu Form skin, it's just going to take a little more work than I'd thought. I did discover there is a local West Marine so I was able to pick up some g/flex and some 105/207 resin/ hardener for the skin. I went over everything with 80 grit and flame treated before applying the g/flex. Side note: I went with the 655 vs the 650 because it specifically mentioned hard to bond plastics. It is definitely more of a gel than most of the epoxies I've used. It says it can be used to fill voids I think up to .5" without needing to be reinforced. I tried laying in some glass strand just for more grip for the upper layers and it really doesn't wet out very well. BUT (!) when it dries - this stuff isn't going anywhere. That's as far as I got yesterday. I've still got to re-sand it and lay some more glass on the back side to reinforced around the gauges, then I can move on to the top and figure out the mounting. I'll get some pictures up of the process.
  11. There are several youtube videos and threads showing his work and it does not seem to be up to snuff (or it wasn't - he may have changed his lay up and resin methods). There was also a considerable lag in shipping (3-4 months vs the 4-6 weeks shown on the site). Again, all of that may have changed but I'm still a little leery when we're talking about dropping $1k+. But it still may be an option because: I tried reinforcing and adding backing to the gauge cut outs on the Accu Form cover and failed miserably. The website said it's made out of ABS but I doubt it considering how it reacted to ABS cement (probably the strongest chemical weld available when dealing with ABS). The cement didn't really take to it, even after scuffing with 80 grit and cleaning with the ABS cleaning solvent. Not only that, but it actually melted off the top layer of the dash where I had applied it. And the fiberglass didn't do a great job wetting through either. So epic fail all around. My next attempt will be with a two part epoxy. And if that doesn't work, then I'll resort to using this cover as a mold and just making a new skin.
  12. So I've got the OBX (Jenvey knock off) ITB's for my LS6 based motor and I'm trying to sort out a better way to tie the throttle bodies together. I can take pictures later but right now, the throttle shafts are tied together by a little arm on the first TB that presses up on a set screw on the next throttle body to open the blade. Then the second presses on the 3rd and so on. Then, there is a (flimsy) piece that sits on the top side so when the first TB closes it'll coax the second one to close as well if the spring tension isn't enough. I get that the set crew is there to balance the throttle bodies BUT I have drilled and tapped every runner (about 2" off the head as that was the only place with enough meat to tap) and have 5/16" vacuum line tying them all together at a distribution block. I did this for a couple of reasons: one, I didn't want to run only Alpha-N so I needed a MAP reference and two, I thought it would help balance the runners. (And maybe my logic is jacked here but if you have a high vacuum and introduce a lower vacuum ( a leak essentially) then the higher vacuum can only pull as much as the lower). And if this holds true, then I wouldn't need to sync each throttle independently and I could have a rigid linkage between the throttles for a crisper response instead of the daisy chain approach. Thoughts?
  13. Is that 2,600# with driver? I had always thought these were around 2,300-2,400# wet. Also, I'm really digging the wheel/ tire combo. Mind sharing the specs on those?
  14. So I think I've got one of the weird long nose R200's with a rectangular flange with 8mm holes. It seems like most people use the Neapco 2-2-899-1 I measured (on my back, under the car so take with a grain of salt): Pilot 2.227" Flange is 1.807"x 2.1" and 2.799" diagonally. .308" bolt holes. With that information, I reached out to northern drivetrain and they actually recommended this: https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/PTI-1202-39.html A Subaru flange. And not with the 1310 ends which is going to make matching to a t56 trans a chore. So, do I just go with the 2-2-899-1 or try the one above? Actually, as I type this the 899-1 is pretty damn close. But I've already typed this, so... Edit: If anyone comes across this, the Neapco 2-2-899-1 fits like a glove.
  15. Alright, so in my infinite wisdom (read: very flawed) I had planned on tying into the Speedhut sensor harnesses for ECT and oil pressure inputs for the MS3pro. But, now that I'm looking at the wiring diagrams, the MS3 has a dedicated sensor return/ground whereas the Speedhut gauges just use chassis ground ( at least on the gauge side). Now I'm kind of stuck as I'm concerned sharing potentially dissimilar ground planes may screw up more important readings like the cam/crank signals. So, I've got three options as I see it: Try tying both the signal and return/ground together (ms3 sensor input and speedhut sensor harness) in the gauge harness before the gauge. Run the sensor right to the MS3 and try to use one of the analog outputs to replicate the sensor output to the Speedhut harness. Suck it up and run a dedicated ECT and oil pressure sensor for the MS3pro. Anyone else run into this?
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