Leon Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 My 260Z had the "click but no start" issue. I simply wired in a 30A relay with the starter spade wire now going into the relay, acting as the signal wire. Ran a new wire to the starter from the relay, connected power and ground wires to the relay and no problems since. Wiring is fundamentally the same, no matter what kind of relay you use (small "Bosch" style, or big Ford solenoid, etc). Now I have a switch, that triggers a relay, which triggers another relay, and activates the starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd1105 Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 My 260Z had the "click but no start" issue. I simply wired in a 30A relay with the starter spade wire now going into the relay, acting as the signal wire. Ran a new wire to the starter from the relay, connected power and ground wires to the relay and no problems since. Wiring is fundamentally the same, no matter what kind of relay you use (small "Bosch" style, or big Ford solenoid, etc). Now I have a switch, that triggers a relay, which triggers another relay, and activates the starter. This relay will be fine?Relay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 (edited) Yeah. I got a 5-pack from ebay for roughly the same price. Edited March 28, 2012 by Leon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surpip Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 (edited) I did a relocation in my S30 I have 0 gauge wire running up to the starter post and 0 for a ground wire connected to a bare metal rear bumper mount. I agree with previous posts, I think it’s a ground issue. If you wire brush to bare metal your Batt ground and add an additional block to frame ground strap you should be fine, make sure to spray it with that red stuff that comes in a yellow can (batt terminal protector). As for the spark, if the ignition is on and the motor cranks just a little bit you should be getting a spark. In the on and start pos the coil and P/U are getting power and should light off if the motor is cranked. Edited March 31, 2012 by surpip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd1105 Posted April 4, 2012 Author Share Posted April 4, 2012 I did a relocation in my S30 I have 0 gauge wire running up to the starter post and 0 for a ground wire connected to a bare metal rear bumper mount. I agree with previous posts, I think it’s a ground issue. If you wire brush to bare metal your Batt ground and add an additional block to frame ground strap you should be fine, make sure to spray it with that red stuff that comes in a yellow can (batt terminal protector). As for the spark, if the ignition is on and the motor cranks just a little bit you should be getting a spark. In the on and start pos the coil and P/U are getting power and should light off if the motor is cranked. I'll try changing to 0 gauge battery cables. Are you also suggesting I add another ground strap along with the one i have already, as you see in my previous post? If so should it be from a transmission bolt to a spot on the frame? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd1105 Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 Update. So i had a chance to work on the z today and this is what I changed. I installed the new starter, cut the yellow/black ignition wire at the harness of ignition switch and ran new wire from the point where I cut it, all the way to the connection on the starter. I also sanded all of my grounds again to the metal, just to make sure. I went to crank the car and it actually cranks fine now, but it still won't fire.When the key is switch to the "ign" position i still hear the click from the coil or the dizzy in about 2second intervals. Another weird thing it does is if I crank it in the "start" position when I let go and the car stops cranking the motor will kick once more by itself after a few second(about 2). I have a new ignition switch that i was going to install, but I'm not sure if that would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStag Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Gasoline. Match. Cliff. I would swap in that new ignition switch so fast it would spin your head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Sounds like you could have some strange stuff going on with things grounding that aren't supposed to. The engine shouldn't crank on it's own more than a second after you've stopped it cranking. It also sounds like your ignition switch might be fubar. Have you played around with all your relays to make sure they're operating correctly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd1105 Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 (edited) Sounds like you could have some strange stuff going on with things grounding that aren't supposed to. The engine shouldn't crank on it's own more than a second after you've stopped it cranking. It also sounds like your ignition switch might be fubar. Have you played around with all your relays to make sure they're operating correctly? I haven't played with the relays(I know the fuel pump relay works when the key turns to the "ign" postion). I'll install the ignition switch tomorrow ...could I have a bad coil? Any ideas on why the motor would kick once when not in the start position? UPDATE: I changed the ignition switch but it didn't make a difference. I pulled out my voltmeter and put the positive lead on the positive post of the coil and the negative lead I grounded to the frame, and the coil is only getting 11.03V when the key is in the ON position. Should it be getting 12volts in the ON position or only when cranking in the START position? I started messing with the connections on the coil and I found a blue wire that was hooked up to the negative post of the coil(In the picture below my finger is pointing to it). This is not the same blue wire that is linked to the F.I. harness, this one comes from the stock 260z harness to the negative post on the coil. When i transferred over the ZXT turbo coil to my car, I used the stock coil bracket from the 260z and hooked up everything back to the turbo coil how it was hooked on the 260z coil(or so i think). I found that if remove this wire from the negative post on my coil, the coil stops making the weird spark click I was hearing and when I crank the motor over without this wire connected the motor doesn't kick again after I crank it. This could be what gollum was talking about when he said something was being grounded that didn't need to be. With it removed it basically solves the problems i was having, but where does this wire go(second picture below shows the wire going back into the stock harness)? Edited April 25, 2012 by cd1105 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 That kind looks like a green wire, and very well could be your issue. Is it coming from the EFI loom or chassis loom? And have you verified that everything is wired up to the coil as instructed in this post? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/page__view__findpost__p__309094 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd1105 Posted April 27, 2012 Author Share Posted April 27, 2012 That kind looks like a green wire, and very well could be your issue. Is it coming from the EFI loom or chassis loom? And have you verified that everything is wired up to the coil as instructed in this post? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/page__view__findpost__p__309094 2years and 7 months ITS RUNNING! Thanks to everyone for the help! pics and videos coming soon...I do have slight problem trying to figure out if the turbo is spinning(blow off valve is not completely opening), but i can figure that out myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandonR. Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Good to hear. Just for s-hits & giggles what ended up being the issue? Just incase someone else has the same problem. Sometimes my car starter will stay on if i use the remote car start, sometimes it wont even make a noise or turn over unless i literaly rock the car back and forth with transmission in gear..strange intermitten bs it dont bother me much. Atleast she will see the road again though good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd1105 Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 (edited) Good to hear. Just for s-hits & giggles what ended up being the issue? Just incase someone else has the same problem. Sometimes my car starter will stay on if i use the remote car start, sometimes it wont even make a noise or turn over unless i literaly rock the car back and forth with transmission in gear..strange intermitten bs it dont bother me much. Atleast she will see the road again though good job! Well I sanded all my connections for the grounds to the body again so that helped some. When i transfered over coils i took everything off the stock coil and connected it back to the coil from the ZXT. The original tach feed was on the negative post of the coil along with the new tach feed. When i took the the old tach wire off I noticed the coil stopped making the weird noise. I adjusted the dizzy and it started right up. Edited May 16, 2012 by cd1105 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStag Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Well I sanded all my connections for the grounds to the body again so that helped some. When i transfered over coils i took everything off the stock coil and connected it back to the coil from the ZXT. The original tach feed was on the negative post of the coil along with the new tach feed. When i took the the old tach wire off I noticed the coil stopped making the weird noise. I adjusted the dizzy and it started right up. OK, Save the match and gasoline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd1105 Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 OK, Save the match and gasoline. LOL will do....until the next major upgrade like megasquirt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStag Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 LOL will do....until the next major upgrade like megasquirt Oh, god. Do you really want to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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