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Wiring nightmare, need help ASAP 83 NA to 83 Turbo Swap


Wangan280

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Everything is bolted in mechanically (What I'm good at...)

 

 

When it comes down to wiring I'm getting wrecked. I honest to god have no idea what to do. I've hooked a couple wires together, off of the diagram given here

 

http://strausz.us/zcar/turboswap/ I'm not even sure if it's correct.

 

Can anyone call and help me? or give me some sort of walkthrough? This is honestly a nightmare, but for all I know it might be easier than I'm making it.

 

I can't have this car off the road for very long

 

THANKS!

 

Jordan

724-553-6866 (I have verizon)

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Plug in the ECU, plug the ECU harness to that and everything should have connectors. If its a stock swap. If you can unplug the NA ECU and harness and hook ikt right up again, you can do the Turbo harness.

 

Are you planning on deleting anything? maybe pics of what you need figured out.

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As stated above, Once you start connecting the ecu and then the injector harness connections, the rest of the harness should just lay out the way it needs to go. If you have a wiring diagram, it tells you which colored wire connectors go to which coolant temp sensor and so on. You should be able to figure out the correct connectors to go with the correct sensor. :)

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We're currently getting no spark, but the motor is turning over.

 

The fuel pump also won't stop priming? It normally runs for 5 seconds or whatever while the key is on the "ON" position. But it's going continuously.

 

We're getting closer but no cigar. I'll try to get pictures, I just want it to fire up (I know it won't run right) but were getting close.

 

Any clue on the fuel pump? it's already annoying :D

Edited by Wangan280
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Fuel pump is not connected to the ECU, that's a harness problem. probably your ignition switch could be stuck or something. The no spark cold be a dead coil. Are you using the NA coil or the turbo one? You can get away with the NA coil for now.

 

 

currently an NA coil, How much would a turbo one run me?

 

the fuel pump relay isn't hooked up, my dad just thumb tied the two wires getting power together to see if we could get it running.

 

It's all down to a few wires.. :(

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Everything you need should be in the link you posted. Its been quite a few years since I swaped my na to turbo, but that was the only wiring diagrams I followed. I know its not as simple as plugging in the ecu though. I believe I grafted my na harness to the turbo fi harness. Most of the splicing was done with the relays by the battery. Only took me one afternoon to do the splicing after looking over the diagrams the night before. Hopefully someone can help you out, good luck.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I hope you didn't throw out the donor turbo car. I did the swap a long time ago and before I did I checked the wiring in the manual and they are many differences between the 2 models. So I took the easy way out and that is to swap in the entire wiring harness from the turbo car. This will save you a lot of guess work. After cutting and splicing you ended up screwing up the wiring harness.

 

The turbo car has a fuel pump modulator sitting under the dash and on top of the ECU area. You need this modulator to prime the fuel pump. There is another 5 or 6 wires connector near the ECU that you need to splice in the power. If you have no spark then one of the wire in this connector is not getting the power. Double check on it. It's been a very long time ago since I messed around with the Z cars. I still have several in my garage here including a turbo ZX. So if you still need some help I can check and help you out. Send me a PM with ur number and we can get in touch. GL

Vinh

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Check to see if you can hear the fuel pump relay turn on (it's under the glove box). As VinhZXT stated the turbo has a fuel pump modulator which hooks up to the plug on the side of the harness inside the driver foot well about 10 inches back up the harness from the ECU. You'll need the FPM from the swap car or you can ground the black wire on the "T" shaped connector (power is green) between the rear pillars towards the passenger side. That bypasses the modulator so you can at least get the pump working.

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