1973 Datsun with the Lt-1 Swap

[King's Evil]

I am going to get a better gauge before I take stuff apart, I was using a autozone rent a one. I wanted to check if I was getting the same reading as the autozone one.

 

 

Say GOTHALOSISM, on your Z, did you cut your frame rails for that pulley? You used a smaller one and have a lot of clearance, what make and part number the pulley you're using?

 

If I do return this pulley, I just dont want to make another mistake of getting the wrong kind again.

[GOTHALOSISM]

Yeah I did, when I get access to a welder I will be patching it in and the re-inforcing it. I'll see if I have a pic of it for ya.

 

I ended up getting the big pulley by accident.

Edited February 16, 2012 by GOTHALOSISM

[GOTHALOSISM]

This is how it looked before i notched the frame.

 

 

I'll get another one for you as well.

[deja]

 

Maybe I bought the wrong kind of pulley... Was it the one that has the big pulley or the one looks like it has a smaller pulley. I got the one that has the smaller pulley, because I thought it was smaller than the other one since the pulley on that one look massive.

 

This the pulley I got. Luckily the seller was kind enough to accept refund.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390278049924?_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&item=390278049924&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT&vxp=mtr#ht_1475wt_905

 

Should I be getting this kind (DORMAN Part # 34209 from rockauto.com)

 

Which pulley you lt1 Z guys are running? Part number would be greatly appreciated.

 

Looks to me like you have the right pulley. I don't know what the part number I have for the pulley, got it off Ebay and it has the small pulley. I have about an inch of clearance. Are you sure you are putting it on right? That red emblem should be on the outside of the engine block toward the frame.

Edited February 16, 2012 by deja

[King's Evil]

That's really weird, I tried many different ways to fit it on there. Thanks goth for sending those pictures. I heard you could switch pulley to a 2.5" pulley with the 6 groove So you don't have to cut anything. I was going to do that, but I decided to modify my pulley since I get very impatient. Paying shipping, for return, and buying another hoping it fit, get a different pulley, and all. So I modify the one I have. I cut the one end off, flip it on the side I have more than one inch of clearance from the frame and clears the belts. One thing I worry about it's strength, I made it strong as possible. The alternator shouldn't take much drag to bend and twist the pulley, right?

 

I just remembered, I shortened and backed out the Datsun original mount towers and used the thinnest 350 motor mount, so the lt1 really sits really low and back on the Z. Maybe that why I had fitment issues. I did this because I want the lowest center of gravity as possible, and have enough room for a big turbo or super charger on top of the motor while keeping the hood stock appearance.

 

Here's some pics.

 

 

[King's Evil]

For the fuel system, on the LT1LS1 forums, they say I should have some kind of venting on my fuel cell. I have an open hole out of a hose on top. It would create vacuum and causing all my fuel to rush back into the cell. They said the LT-1 original fuel system is almost sealed.

 

I fear of sealing up my fuel cell because I don't want the thing to balloon up, that would be an scary image when I look at the rear view mirror. Is there any sort of venting I should look for? I seen a 8AN fitting fuel venting with a roll over valve, have it coil out of the cell with few loops and out of the car so gas dont leak out completely.

 

[King's Evil]

Hey guys, I am about to finish up my cooling system, and just started the fan wiring. I am making a manual switch on fans. Since the radiator is in a 40 degree angle, I would need to rely on my temperature gauge to see how hot the car is running.

 

Will the stock temperature gauge will work with the lt1 stock temperature sensor? Which wire on the datsun wire harness is from the temperature gauge?

[GOTHALOSISM]

On the 280z its the yellow one with the bullet connector. I have a bad sensor even though its new. I even tried using an aftermarket gauge and still nothing. I'll be upgrading to a glowshift one soon.

[King's Evil]

I'll look for the new gauge kit with the sensor included, they got some nice one at summit with the red digital ones. They will thin the wallet tho.

 

Good news, The car finally drove today, It was scary fast. Battery died after we were done driving it around the block, Haha.

 

We tried to wire the alternator, tried many different wires, hand spinning it. We couldn't get any reading from the $200 volt meter my buddy has. Does the alternator need to be spun faster in order to get an reading? We think its the solid yellow wire that should be connected so we hooked it up, and I'll go to auto-zone tomorrow to find the right belt, hopefully it charge. Also there's coil looking thing from the wiring to the original alternator, it has only one green wire to it. Is it needed?

 

Anyone know what size belt I should run? I have the power steering delete and the ac delete.

 

Some of the light's work now, headlight works good. I don't have any brake lights now. When I pressed down my brakes, my dash lits up, My blinkers isn't working like it should, but the flasher works only if the headlights, and parking lights are off.

[GOTHALOSISM]

To get the length of belt use a piece of string. Wrap it around just like the belt and then cut it. Take that length to autozone and tell them you need a belt xx long.

 

As for the gauges I'm going with Glowshift. Very nice gauges for low(ish)price.

[King's Evil]

Thanks for all of your help guys, now my car is officially driving and running fantastic. Scary fast and loud. Gotta get an exhaust system soon! Being deaf while the car is open headers is amazingly eargasum. Them police around here get pretty bored.

 

Took it for a first trip to auto zone, and fill up the tank for the first time. Good feeling. Still, I gotta get gauges and all to see the engine statues.

 

I was hoping you guys can help me with this; my light aren't working like they should be. Before I pull the old L24 out, flashers, blinkers, brake lights all works. Now, I have this new motor in. My front blinkers work partly the same, head light works, emergency flashers works, my brake light do not work at all, some times they produce a slight dim, very slight dim. When I turn on the head lights, my blinkers wont work, it just stay lit.

 

I have not cut any of the original datsun wiring, except for wiring the lt1 harness to the ignition key. I changed all the fuse, some where blown. So I replace those, I noticed some of the stuff got brighter, but still no brake lights, and no working blinkers when head lights are on.

 

Should something should be connected, I tried to hook everything back together from memory.

 

Any help?

[King's Evil]

I get a very very low reading from the tail light when its on flasher mode. Some of them goes 0.12 volt to 1 volt

[King's Evil]

Found out something else. When I hit the brake pedal, while it on position and head lights off. The dash would lit up every time I press down the brake.

[GOTHALOSISM]

Make sure your harness wires are not reversed. In mine I had the tach/speedo swapped (off by 1 pin).

[King's Evil]

Make sure your harness wires are not reversed. In mine I had the tach/speedo swapped (off by 1 pin).

 

Do you mean reversed like having the connectors flipped? I took care while putting them on, they have those little slot to put them on right so I put them on like that. I wiggle the connectors see if it wasn't fully connecting, still no lights. I'll double check it, its the long rectangle connector go to the rear right? I tried many possible ways to get it to work, even got new bulbs for the rear, still no light.. Well... It make a very very slight dim.

 

Some time while driving, the blinker don't always work, it just give a dim lit while not flashing.

 

Is it possible for the new charging system is making the light won't work in the rear?

 

This thing does peel out like crazy in the second gear, after a 13 mile trip, and a little throttle happy to the block to my drive way, I noticed my passenger rear tire was steaming smoke, and some of the threads went down, holy smoke! I noticed it like to spin tires in second gear. Never had anything that do a peel out by command.

 

Also my rear end always does this, when you put your hand on the drive shaft to turn it, it wiggles a little, it turn about 10 degree while it parked. Is this mean my rear end bad, does it need fluid (it leaks a bit ever since I got it)

 

Do the T56 tranny reverse gear is usually hard to shift in to? It take a bit of wrestling to shift it to Reverse.

[King's Evil]

When I remove some of the bulbs on the rear, they get brighter. So its okay visible. When I disconnected the one tail light harness, the other light get really bright, connected the other one again, goes real dim.

 

Now, I discovered a new problem. When I turn on the blinkers for the left and then right side, both rear flash at the same time as if it is in hazard mode, while the front blinkers are flashing on its one side.

 

I know I put the fuse right, I even sand paper the connectors. I used a glass type fuse that hold 20 and 10 amps. I checked all the possible connectors, they are all in place.

 

Please help me on this, I don't want to get pulled over for non working lights, and my skills arnt too good with electrical.

[King's Evil]

Well Guys, the swap is successively complete. I am really proud since it was my first successful project. I wanted to make this forum my build page. So you guys can follow up, help me with some of the stuff, and who knows maybe it will help you guys for your projects.

 

There seems to be no problem with the LT-1 and T56 after I started driving it. It runs flawlessly. I only have two problems now, the intake leaks little bit oil from the rear driver side, and my T56 tranny requires a bit of wrestling to get it shifted in reverse gear.

 

The lights problems was simple. I wasn't getting any ground for the light, that explains why it wasn't giving the full lit for the rear lights. I simply cut one of the ground wire in the rear, and hook it up to the nearest ground in the back, boom, I got my full brake lights. Once we hooked the ground, my low beam headlight blew out, only my high beam work now. Bummer.

 

My next mod is getting my car some Halo lights in the front. Instead having the white ring around the headlights. I am going to do amber rings or maybe red rings for the parking and blinkers, I think that would look really cool! Sooner or later I'll put some headlight covers on there, while at night, the ring light would glow around the cover, would be sick.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310379795568?item=310379795568&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr#ht_10714wt_1037

 

 

The car is loud, way too loud. I can only idle to keep the sound low around the street so I won't get pulled over. So, I am going to make a true dual exhaust setup, I am going for H pipe setup, because I loved how H pipes gives it a muscle car tone. I don't like how the X pipes made the car sound ricy in the higher end. The goal for my exhaust system is to make it quiet as possible for the sleeper effect, and electronic cutouts side exhaust for racing mode. I am going to use two glass packs for resonators, and two Oldsmobile 88 mufflers, with 2.25 exhaust pipes.

 

My next mod is getting a strong rear end. The stock rearend feel like it's near the end of its life. It vibrate on the lower speed and higher speed. I noticed my tires are wearing out really fast ever since I when started driving this thing again, it not because it done peel outs, its the vibration. The drive-line turn too much when its parked

 

So I am still thinking about different rearend swap. I might do a R200, or a Corvette C4 IRS, I am leaning toward to the C4 IRS. The corvette IRS seem cheaper in the long run and stronger. The whole setup has adjustable camber and toe adjustment, bigger CV shafts, disc brakes. The R200 rearend, I would need disc brakes, need to get adjustable arms, coil overs, lots more. I feel if I can find a C4 IRS it would be worth it in the long run. I am a fabricator, so it should be fun. I found a really good write up for the C4 rearend swap here

 

http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/Swapping%20a%20C4%20Corvette%20IRS%20Into%20a%20240Z_files-Scottie/Swapping%20a%20C4%20Corvette%20IRS%20Into%20a%20240Z.htm

 

After the rear end swap, I am going to give the girl a 12 point roll cage. Making the car into a full caged car. It is really scary seeing the car flex so easily with the new engine.

Edited February 28, 2012 by King's Evil

[rsicard]

Strongly suggest using a R-200 differential. Also use the CV half shafts and Modern Motorsports BEEFY stub axles. The Corvette rear drive looks to be complicated to install in the Datsun.

[King's Evil]

Strongly suggest using a R-200 differential. Also use the CV half shafts and Modern Motorsports BEEFY stub axles. The Corvette rear drive looks to be complicated to install in the Datsun.

 

I have plenty of time to look and think about it. I do enjoy a challenge of making things work. If I can find a complete R200 rearend cheap, I would consider it, but If I do find a Complete C4 IRS cheap I would consider it aswel.

 

I do not plan narrowing the C4 IRS, I read that it's only 4 inches wider than the Datsun IRS. I'll be making some wide quarter panels out of fiberglass in the rear, beefy tires, and wheels with the right offset so it wont stick out so much.

[GOTHALOSISM]

yeah the vette swap is not easy and can get quite expensive. The r200 swap is bolt in and you can even do rear disk swap for real cheap if you have access to a good jy or two.