rossman Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Well, I tried and failed to start my engine for the first time this weekend. The engine turns over with no signs of combustion. No kicks, jerks, backfires, nothing. There is a strong fuel smell after cranking for several minutes. I have the following setup: L28 Wolf V500 EMS RC 660cc low impedance injectors LS1 coils (6) GM IAT sensor (open element) GM coolant temperature sensor Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump Aeromotive A1000 FPR Aeromotive Pump Speed Controller (drops the pump speed in half below 1500 rpm) Wolf internal MAP Ford 65mm TPS The crank damper mark coincides with the 0 degree timing mark when cylinder #1 is on TDC compression stroke. In this position, the dual slots on the distributor wheel are hidden under the optical sensor. I calibrated the TPS by checking the voltage closed and wide open and entered those values into Wolf. The live display shows the correct throttle position. The fuel pump kicks on and the fuel pressure goes to ~43 psi at the fuel rail during cranking. Once cranking stops the pump shuts off and fuel pressure drops down to 10 psi or so. My inductive timing light flashes when connected to #1 indicating that it's producing spark. Plugs are gapped .028" The fuel and ignition channels wired up such that cylinder 1 corresponds to channel 1, cylinder 2 corresponds to channel 2, etc. The map I am using is based off KTM's L6 map. The only things I changed are the injector open times (scaled 450/660) and I disabled all the channels that don't have a function with my setup. In Wolf software "Ignition Trigger Offset" and "Injector Pulse Offset" values are set up as 0, 4, 2, 5, 1, 3 I timed the engine by setting "Ignition Lock Fixed Timing" to 0 degrees and adjusting the distributor and Ref BTDC until the damper timing mark lined up with 0 using an inductive timing light connected to cylinder #1. "Ref degrees BTDC" is at 75 degrees. Here are some of my observations. The 75 degrees "Ref degrees BTDC" doesn't really make sense to me. It seems like it shouldn't be more than 10 to 15 degrees to get it right on the mark since the dual synch slots were just ahead or right on top of the optical sensor when I verified the damper mark corresponded to 0 degrees TDC compression stroke. The injector voltage with the ECU on and not cranking is ~4.5 volts constant. I thought there should be 0 voltage until the ECU grounds the individual injector. I pulled the plugs after cranking for some time and they appear to be dry or at least not dripping wet. There is a strong smell of fuel in the engine bay after cranking for some time. I cannot find any leaks in the fuel system. I can email my map to anybody who is willing to check it out. Thanks in advance for any help. Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 (edited) It looks like the low injector voltage is a problem at the power supply. I think one of the relays is bad. I'll know more when I get back in town on Wednesday. Edited March 13, 2012 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 (edited) You covered all of the basics in your first post. Probably why you got no replies. Spark present, fuel present, timing checked. Doesn't make sense that you don't even get a pop, unless you have zero compression... Edited March 13, 2012 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 This morning I set the coils in a wasted spark configuration (each of the 6 coils fires every 180 cam degrees). It now acts like it wants to start. As I'm cranking it catches for a second, engine speed jumps a little but doesn't start. It does this every few seconds. I sprayed some starter fluid into the intake, started cranking again and got a big backfire through the intake. For sanity's sake I checked again that cylinder #1 is at TDC, cam lobes are up, and crank damper mark is on 0. I think that my timing is off somewhere in the ECU. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 (edited) Here is a video of me . Edited March 15, 2012 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage-TechZ Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Here is a video of me . I was waiting for you to growl at the video camera near the end,lol. I have the Wolf 3D still new in the box and have yet to install it. But it really sounds like the cycle of compression is missing the ignition timing fully. You are close. Your engine bay looks great btw ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarcreations Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Ross, I have been reading all of your posts and gearing up to rewire my 280Z (non-turbo at the moment) and install my Wolf V500. Did you get your problem worked out and drive your Z? Regards, Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted July 31, 2012 Author Share Posted July 31, 2012 Yes I did. It turned out to be a timing and ignition sequence issues. I got a timing wheel and discovered the timing was off about 8 degrees. The ignition sequence was off due to...uh, user error . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 Yes I did. It turned out to be a timing and ignition sequence issues. I got a timing wheel and discovered the timing was off about 8 degrees. The ignition sequence was off due to...uh, user error . When I did my first install my ignition sequence was off too. Batch fire (or single coil) is oh so much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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