emeraldlion Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 so after scrolling through several of other people's setups, I noticed that no one wired their maxifuse block like I did, and I am starting to get a little concerned. Maybe someone can clue me in as to whether or not my wiring is not appropriate before I try to fire it up. I have a scosche 4 fuse maxifuse block that has 3 inputs at the top for 2-4 gauge wires, and four out the bottom. I installed all the red-white wires appropriately to the bottom slots with appropriate fuses. For the three inputs at the top, I have one 4 gauge wire that goes to battery pos(+), one 4 gauge wire that coems from alternator output, and one 4 gauge wire that goes to the started solenoid (+). So if wiring it this way is NOT okay, can someone please explain to me what I have done wrong and why it is wrong to wire it that way? Thanks All Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 (edited) A wiring diagram would help. Are all of the 3 inputs connected to a common bus? What size fuse are you using on the starter solenoid? Typically it's connected straight to the battery. Edited April 14, 2012 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emeraldlion Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 (edited) Prety crappy picture but hopefully it gives you an idea.No fuse to the starter. Edited April 15, 2012 by emeraldlion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Run a separate 4 gauge wire from the battery positive terminal to the starter. It looks OK other than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emeraldlion Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 Okay, Thanks ross. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 What you have will work fine. You just connected everything the hard way. The input block, has no current limiting, due to no fuse, obviously, and will transfer more current than the starter will ever pull. The only concern is the slightly increased resistance through extra connections between the battery and the starter. This will also be affected over time, by exposure to the elements, causing corrosion and increased resistance over time. I don't know why people want to use distro blocks that are meant for interior and audio installs under the hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 What you have will work fine. true, until exposure to the elements, causing corrosion and increased resistance over time. Or the plating on the fuse box peels off and corrodes, or the terminal screws back out, or .... Keep it simple. Wire it with 4 gauge directly from the battery to the starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emeraldlion Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 (edited) I have all relays and the maxifuse block inside the cabin. Maybe 5 inches of cable from battery to maxfisue block, and the rest is in the diagram. The reason I did this was to keep from running two cables from the battery, but if this will be detrimental in the long run I will run the starter cable straight from the battery. I have a small deka etc14l battery moutned in the passenger floorboard. I suppose it really makes no nevermind whether I run the cable to the block or straight from starter to battery, other than it creates two connections straight to the battery pos(+) Edited April 15, 2012 by emeraldlion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 true, until Or the plating on the fuse box peels off and corrodes, or the terminal screws back out, or .... Keep it simple. Wire it with 4 gauge directly from the battery to the starter. FWIW, I have use that style of connector under the hood, on battery terminals, for several years on daily driven (including winter) vehicles without any real issues. Only mentioned what I did because I have seen it happen to other peoples cars from time to time. I try to avoid that style connection now, just to eliminate any possible problems before hand. The plating flaking off will not cause an issue, at least not any more than the plating not flaking off, again, I've had the flaking happen on some of my terminals, with no additional problems compared to a fully intact plating. It just doesn't look as nice. lol In this case, if the system is working, I wouldn't worry about it too much, especially if this terminal block is in the interior, like has been posted. If I had to get in there and change something anyway, then I would take the time to make a direct connection between the battery and starter. Speaking of small batteries, I should get my AGM battery set-up installed and working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emeraldlion Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 Thanks six. I will see how it goes. I paid 90 bucks shipped for this battery, measuring 6x6x3. Can't wait to see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 You're only using a single small AGM battery? What's the CCA on it? I'm planning to run a pair that are rated at 300 each. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emeraldlion Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 (edited) Yeah, but I don't have any radio a/c or interior lights other than in the dash. I am still a little leary, but thought I would give it a try. I will let you know how it goes. The CCA are 220, CA are around 360 if I remember correctly. I have also seen some test slips from the battery being tested showing 400+ CCA. It seems to have held up well for some people. Chevy 283 with about 9.2:1 cr. Edited April 16, 2012 by emeraldlion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Just thought I would let you know but the way you have it wired will cause a fire if your alternator craps out ( this is from experience on a 77 280z ) the red and white wire that goes into the 80 amp fuse comes from the alternator + after it passes through this fuse (this fuse protects incase of over current from alternator) after going through this fuse it does 4 things... it supplies the other 3 fuses with power and it charges the battery. the red and white cables on the other 3 fuses supply power to things such as ignition, headlights etc. the last red and white wire comes straight from the alternator. if you have the original red and white and another 4 gauge wire connected to the battery you could have a fire hazard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 (edited) This is how the wiring is stock on my 77z i tore the harness apart because i bypassed the first 80 amp fuse and my alternator had a current surge that almost burned my hole wiring harness apart Edited August 20, 2012 by Randall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emeraldlion Posted September 12, 2012 Author Share Posted September 12, 2012 I am not sure I am following what you are suggesting. Right now the only unfused path is from alternator to battery, and starter. All of the red/white wires that supply body harness and engine harness are fused. Unless I am failing to see a path. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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