matt_w Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 (edited) Finally got the Z in good running shape and am ready to drive it for the summer. Everything *should* be fairly bulletproof except for my half shafts and u-joints. I've read that the non-stock u-joints are breakage prone (I don't have the stock ones any more), and the last thing I want is for one of those to shatter while I'm doing 60 down the highway. My engine was dyno'd at 430HP/470TQ. The rear end is an R200 with an LSD and Ron-Tyler mount, which from what I've read should be ok. So I guess the question is how worried should I be on the ujoints/half shafts? (I'm not going to be drag racing or doing a lot of 1/4 mile pulls). Has anyone had any direct experience or stories on these breaking and the aftermath? What do other people here do for their rear ends with high-torque setups? Edited May 16, 2012 by matt_w Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icewtr Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Well i a in the power range your at and i have had 3 break on my z. That is with the carquest gold non greasable u joints. Strongest ones i have found. 1 broke at drag strip one at a stop light and the last one broke while just going down the street at 65 mph. Now i have cv axles from driveshaft shop rated at 1000 hp . I dont plan on having issues ever again with them. As of last week launched at drag strip on slicks and on a 200 shot of nitrous with no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_w Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 How much did that setup cost? Were the parts all fabbed, or did you start with parts from a donor car? Any pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 (edited) My business has a solution too, it uses 84-89 300ZX Turbo CVs. You need the CV adapter, shorter CV shafts, 280Z stub axles, and the 300ZX CVs. If you're starting with a 280Z, you'd probably spend about $150 on the CVs, and about $900 for my parts. You might want to upgrade to chromoly stub axles too. I don't sell those, but Chequered Flag Joe does and they're compatible with my parts. Link to installation: http://forums.hybrid...-differentials/ Edited May 17, 2012 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_w Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 My business has a solution too, it uses 84-89 300ZX Turbo CVs. You need the CV adapter, shorter CV shafts, 280Z stub axles, and the 300ZX CVs. If you're starting with a 280Z, you'd probably spend about $150 on the CVs, and about $900 for my parts. You might want to upgrade to chromoly stub axles too. I don't sell those, but Chequered Flag Joe does and they're compatible with my parts. Link to installation: http://forums.hybrid...-differentials/ Thanks for all that info. If I'm reading all this right it goes from inside out: R200 -> CV shaft -> CV adapter -> 280z stub axle (I still have a 240z stub axle). Do you know under what circumstances people were having binding issues without the shortened axles? I'm guessing if they need shorter shafts, it was happening on lowered cars (which mine is)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Just installed JMortensen's kit last weekend, and I am very happy with how the assembly went together. Learned a lot in the process and JM was very helpful thru the conversion. I had no CV experience before doing this conversion (there are some tricks to it). Awaiting alignment (next week) before getting slicks on and back to the track, then for a full product review! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Thanks for all that info. If I'm reading all this right it goes from inside out: R200 -> CV shaft -> CV adapter -> 280z stub axle (I still have a 240z stub axle). Do you know under what circumstances people were having binding issues without the shortened axles? I'm guessing if they need shorter shafts, it was happening on lowered cars (which mine is)? I did all my measurements on my own heavily modified Z, but from what I measured, I don't see how you can put 300ZXT shafts in an S30 without binding unless you have longer than stock control arms. You'll want the 280Z stub axle anyway, because it is stronger than the 240 unit and you'll need it at your power level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_w Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 Is this group buy still going on? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105510-m2-z31t-short-shafts-group-buy-2/ If so, I'll jump on that. Are the 300ZX turbo CVs difficult to come by? I'm pretty sure I can source some 280z stub axles easy, but I don't see many Z31 turbos on the road... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 (edited) You can get in on the group buy. I expect to have shafts very soon, so you're asking at the right time. The CV's are getting hard to come by. I just picked up a set at my local Nissan dismantler. I haven't actually figured out if I'm going to try and get them when I can and then build the CV and sell it all assembled, or just sell the parts and hope the buyers take a set of shafts at the same time. Basically I'm not sure what to charge for my labor for assembling the things and I feel like I should be installing new boots and all that and I don't have sources for all the miscellaneous small parts. I haven't had time to figure all that out, so if you want I'd sell this set for $175. I think that's about the going market price right now. They're in decent condition the boots aren't torn but they do look their age. Edited May 17, 2012 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_w Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 You can get in on the group buy. I expect to have shafts very soon, so you're asking at the right time. The CV's are getting hard to come by. I just picked up a set at my local Nissan dismantler. I haven't actually figured out if I'm going to try and get them when I can and then build the CV and sell it all assembled, or just sell the parts and hope the buyers take a set of shafts at the same time. Basically I'm not sure what to charge for my labor for assembling the things and I feel like I should be installing new boots and all that and I don't have sources for all the miscellaneous small parts. I haven't had time to figure all that out, so if you want I'd sell this set for $175. I think that's about the going market price right now. They're in decent condition the boots aren't torn but they do look their age. Great, sign me up for the group buy. Do I pay you through your site? I'll look around here in my area for the CV axles first (there are a lot of Z hoarders around my parts). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 I'll put you on the list. You don't pay until I get the shafts in. I'll PM you the coupon code, and then you purchase them through the site and apply the coupon to get the discounted price. I'm not actively trying to sell those shafts, so I may still have them if you can't find any locally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_w Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 (edited) FYI Rockauto sells new boots and clips for these for $8 a piece. They even have a service where you can send in used shafts for a rebuild. Coupon code 95975874442690 gives you a 5% discount there. Edited May 17, 2012 by matt_w Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Thanks! I'll bookmark that and use it for sure if I start building these myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 We are using the 300 ZX turbo CV axles with stock control arms,with no problems. For the first couple of years we ran halfshafts using CARQUEST gold ujoints with some breakage, At our first SEZ shootout (DNI) on our second pass I broke both halfshafts,but I had enough spare parts to finish the event. We went a 9.21 @153 mph on haft shafts that day. Then we went to CV axles and have had no breakage yet. We will be putting them to the test in a couple of weeks with the new set up. Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_w Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 (edited) Finally got the Z31 CV and 280z stubs on. It was a SUPER tight fit between the adapter flange and disc brake caliper, and CV axle and rear sway bar, but it appears that it will work! Thanks again to JMortensen for all his help! Edited June 20, 2012 by matt_w Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 Be sure to run your suspension thru its full range from full droop to full squat. I have the exact same set up and with the stock swaybar endlinks, at full droop, the swaybar rubbed the CV boots and the driveshaft flange. I found that spacing the swaybar down from the floorpan 3/8" and using aftermarket swaybar kit with a 4-inch bolt changed the geometry enough to keep everything comfortably clear of moving parts. The swaybar still rubs the driveshaft at full droop just a bit. That means I can't ever run-up full drivetrain until I have my droop limiter straps designed and installed. It looked just like yours at standard ride height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 Agreed. It's a known issue that the bar is close to or rubbing with 300ZXT shafts. Running shorter end links is a possibility, and I'd put the bolts in from the top so that there isn't a threaded end at the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_w Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 I have about 1/4" of clearance on drivers side through my entire suspension travel, but it's touching on the passanger side just barely. The actual swaybar is touching, not the link, so I think if I grind down the corner of the swaybar a little bit I will have enough clearnace. Getting a shorter end link may help too, I might do that instead... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_w Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 After shortening my swaybar end links by about 3/4 an inch, I have almost an inch of clearance at ride height, and it is _barely_ touching at full droop. As long as I don't try to rotate the wheels while its up on a lift I should be fine, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid240z Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 (edited) I also ran into this problem. My end links didn't touch the boots but came very close to touching. My worry was that contact may occur if the boots expand enough with the axles spinning while driving. My fix was to section out 3/4 of an inch from each end of the bar. I cut the sections out about 3-4 inches in from the ends of the bar. I then beveled the cut ends and TIG welded them back together from the center out to achieve full weld penetration. I now have more than 3/4 of an inch of clearance at all times. I believe the welds should hold up but I'll report if I have any problems when the Z is back on the road. Edited June 21, 2012 by Hybrid240z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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