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tamo3 '72 240z project


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  • 2 weeks later...

Got N42 head over the weekend @ Pink-N-Pull South San Jose.

I meet really a nice guy helped me pull out this head. He has Silver '73 240z with Turbo engine in. I really appriciate great Z Community helping out each other.

 

The N42 seems like rebuild before, it's fairly clean when looking at removing valve cover.

post-25175-023588400 1344975591_thumb.jpg

 

When I flip to see combustion chamber side, I notice a lot of clogging around water line hole.

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post-25175-002570800 1344975810_thumb.jpg

 

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Especially around no.4 water line is clogged.

 

Last night, I had time to working on removing parts. rocker arms, retainers, valve springs. Put them individual zip-lock bag to store.

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Just get some simple green cleaner put it in something that will fit the head and is metal and heat it up. Its not caustic to the head and bio degradable. The hot cleaner will loosen all the crap in the head then you can spray it out with a hose. Doing that a few times will clean almost everything off plus its cheap. Hot tanking may be a few bucks but it will be done for you so it's your call.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Over the weekend, I had time to wash N42 head with boiled hot water with parts washer fluid.

Clogged carbon is hard to removed. I need to dip parts longer time with the liquid keep warm.

 

I need this bucket heater to keep liquid warm.

post-25175-076907400 1346105566_thumb.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/MARSHALLTOWN-Premier-742G-Bucket-Heater/dp/B000BDB4UG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2QRZ54ZT313XU&coliid=IYUXNWSETECSP

 

Anyway, stinky old oil smell is gone from my garage at least at this time.

 

After head washed, I try to removed stud. Using heat gun to heat up stud 10 minutes, put ice cube to the stud to cooldown to creat gap between stud and head. Jaw lock plier to twist to remove the stud... some of them are easy to take it out, but others are so hard! It took more than 30 minutes to remove hard one.

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After flashing head and blow water by air compressor, I noticed clogged antifreeze.

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I don't know what is the best way to clean up this clogg. Any suggestion?

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You can always do another washing after you get the main gunk off with fresh clean water/cleaner. For the holes you can take a drill bit that fits and with your hand lightly spin it, should scrape off the crap in the holes. DO NOT USE A DRILL. You can probably get a bottle cleaning brush to get in the water ways while its in the cleaner.

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  • 3 weeks later...

You can always do another washing after you get the main gunk off with fresh clean water/cleaner. For the holes you can take a drill bit that fits and with your hand lightly spin it, should scrape off the crap in the holes. DO NOT USE A DRILL. You can probably get a bottle cleaning brush to get in the water ways while its in the cleaner.

 

Thank for the advice.

I got good advice from Blue @ ClassicZ forum too.

Soak with vinegar and washed 3rd time with bottle cleaning brush. My clogged water line is now clear and flow really well.

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Also got energy bushing @ craigslist. Unfortunately, seller did not tell me there are several bushings are missing before I purchased :( Well, I can get missing bushes separately.

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I got nice free gift from my friend. GT25!

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I can't work on my car at late night after kids went to bed, but I can play with this at night with headphone :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have issue losing power from 1500 ~ 2200 RPM. I adjust distributor timing, but it does not help.

 

Finally, I got compression tester kit from HFT

It only $20. Hope it does it job.

 

My '72 240z is SU Carb. Based on 1972 Datsun 240z Factory Service manual, I should get 171 to 185 lb/sq in (12.0 to 13.0 kg/cm2) Looks like higher than '77 280z compression.

 

Information from atlanticZ mentioned...

---------------------------------

Analyzing Compression Test Data:

  • For a '77 280z, the factory service manual says (164 to 178psi)
  • Most people with older worn engines get between 125 and 155psi. This is usually due to worn piston rings.
  • Usually all six cylinder results are within 10 PSI of each other.
  • The FSM says a result that is less than 80% of the highest is a problem.
  • Two adjacent cylinders with lower readings is usually an indication of a bad head gasket

---------------------------------

 

Warm up engine and remove plugs.

 

Test Cylinder #1. About 130psi

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Test Cylinder #2. About 105psi??? Way to low... :(

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Test Cylinder #3. About 130psi

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Now I got problem. The compression test horse got stack and I could not remove! I need to wait for cooling down the engine....

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I swap alternator to '82 Maxima 60amp Internal Regulator Alternator.

 

post-25175-071193900 1349210550_thumb.jpg

 

Goal for this project are:

  • Easy to swap
  • Stabilize amp with installing MSD-6AL
  • Get rid of voltage regulator

 

I don't drive at night, I don't need H4 headlight, no need big stereo system right now. Therefore, this will be good enough for me.

 

I search web to find how to, but I could not find exact information about wiring.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html

 

http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm

 

http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/

 

 

looking at wiring diagram and monitor how the color wire connected and I draw this.

post-25175-092512000 1349210519_thumb.jpg

 

 

Parts you need:

  • diode at Radio shack. 1N5402 | Catalog #: 276-1143 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062578
  • 60Amp IC alternator for L6 engine. '78 280Z, non-turbo 280ZX, '78-'85 810/Maxima, and '81-'85 720 pickup trucks. I picked up '82 Maxima.
  • Top bracket for '82 Maxima Alternator. Original '72 bracket is bended to fit smaller size of alternator (AL232X)

 

Swap is easy and everything works fine so far. ammeter seems like working, but not tested whether it's accurate or not.

 

Anyway, I'm happy with this result now. I will try valve clearance adjustment for the next.

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