tamo3 Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 (edited) Here is my 240z '72 Project. I'm not a mechanic, I'm just beginner. Never, rebuild an engine, never modified a car before. Just start learning about car recently. I'm native Japanese and has access to read Japanese restore old car magazine to study what common technique. However, this forum is one of the best resource to study with skillful community. I really appreciate advice and feedback from this community. Goal: Restore OK body condition 240z for daily driving street usage. I have no plan to drag race, but interested in drive at circuit. However, I want to tune Engine to N42 3.1 with P90 head ported. Would like to get a bit over 200HP. Gather re-usable parts as much as possible from junkyard to build this car within the budget. Plans: Break upgrade. Front Toyota Caliper, Rear 280zx caliper. Diff upgrade. R200 with LSD. Engine swap. Swap in 280z engine. Auto to manual transmission conversion. Electronic upgrade- wiring, distributor, alternator. Interior need to fully upgrade. Exterior. front XENON Air dam, rear BRE spoiler. ZG carbon flare will be nice. Air Conditioner. Want to install A/C from 280z sometimes. Coil over conversion. Initial condition of the car. Got '72 240z Automatic fairly good body condition. Also, 280z engine (N47 head with N42) and P90 head. Try and error rebuilding engine at my garage on my spare time. Try to keep 240z as running condition until 280z engine is ready to swap. Driver's side floor has rust and hole. Passengers side is OK. Both fender has rust on usual spot. Driver's side of fender has big dent on it. Driver's side dog leg and rear flare hand dent on it. Rear hatch opening has really badly rusted hole. It could be 3 years long project to complete that what I want my 240z to be. Thanks for looking. Edited May 23, 2012 by tamo3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 I saw limited edition of Lamborghini Gallardo LP-540-4 Bianco Rosso. It build only 10 car for Japan. I usually don't like white car, but I like white 240z. Red and white combination is really nice. I may think about painting same theme with this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Cool, it's nice to have a native Japanese person here. You can translate all that super-secret Japanese L-series stuff for us! You should come out to a meet sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emeraldlion Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Welcome to hybridz tamo! This is a great community and has TONS of information and advice available. Best of luck with the new 240, keep us updated with pictures. I really like the whtie paint scheme as well, and I agree with you, the red accents are kinda cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 Thanks Leon. Sure, I love to attend meeting sometime. Unfortunately, my 240z stop running from last week... Try to find out what's wrong with my engine. It was hard to start engine during winter. I though due to the cold weather. I thought something wrong with electric. I was told not to use used parts for electric staff from junkyard. So, I purchased new parts and installed. Changed to new Spark plug to BPR6ES-11. Changed to new Spark plug wire NGK NE61. Changed to rebuild distributor from dual point to single point. Install Pertronix Ignitor 1761. Changed coil to Blaster 2. Battery kept charging with Harbor freight battery charger. http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-battery-float-charger-42292.html Still not running. Following trouble shooting thread now... to figure out the issue. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/56488-engine-wont-startrun-beginners-read-this/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 Thanks emeraldlion for warm welcome. I try to post my progress with keep my motivation high too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 (edited) My car does crank, but not starting engine. I will try this later... Edited May 22, 2012 by tamo3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 Engines still not start. I sprayed "Starting Fluid" to the carb, but still not start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 I plugged wire correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted May 24, 2012 Author Share Posted May 24, 2012 Good news! I narrow down one of the problem. Unplug one of spark plug wire and put spare plug on it. Connect jump cable from Battery negative to this plug to try to start engine. I did not get spark. It was bad rotor in the distributor. After replacing rotor in the distributor, I got spark lightning. I put it back and spray starting fluid, engine get started!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted May 24, 2012 Author Share Posted May 24, 2012 Bad news, engine will stop if RPM is low. I think it's carb setting. I need to search more for this trouble shooting.... When I check fuel filter, it looks like fuel can be seen only 1/3 level. Is it normal? Shouldn't it filled full? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 I find out issue. Right (rear) SU carb spits out. When I check air flow, front is OK, but rear carb is too much. There is a hole at front gasket / insulator that messed up air intake balance. I try to tune up as this condition, but I gave up. When I remove the front SU carb, hot water splash around! I did not know my 3 screw SU carb has cooling water circulating. I order SU carb rebuild kit at ZTherapy. While waiting, I'm making gaskets as the first aid. I purchased assorted gasket material set(FEL-PRO 3060 $10.09) at O'Reilly Auto Parts store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emeraldlion Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Good start. Hope you are able to get the carbs straightened out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 Thanks emeraldlion for encouragement! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 This is the 1st time making own gasket. Cutting gasket paper is no problem, but making holes is a bit difficult. I used paper punch to make holes. After several punch, I can make decent size of hole. I wish I have single paper punch hole tool. Regular size paper punch cannot make holes for the water holes. 1st time try, fitting was good. Clean up air intake manifold surface with break cleaner and put Permatex Form-A-Gasket Sealant between gaskets. After installed front(left) side SU carb, I forgot to install linkage appropriately. I don't want to remove SU to destory newly installed gaskets. I decided to remove rear(right) side SU and make new gaskets for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 You dont want to have rtv silicone anywhere near the intake stream, the vacuum from the engine will suck it in, I would remake those gasket and leave them dry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted August 2, 2012 Author Share Posted August 2, 2012 You dont want to have rtv silicone anywhere near the intake stream, the vacuum from the engine will suck it in, I would remake those gasket and leave them dry Thanks for your advice. I removed them and cut out new gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted August 2, 2012 Author Share Posted August 2, 2012 After installing SU,engine did not start up easily. Front Carb spits out gas and stole engine. Readin Dastun Garage doc and purchase clear tube at OSH to try to adjust float level. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/index.htm http://forums.ctzcc.com/viewtopic.php?t=4181&sid=b15c6070a9563fa4173bb07bbd52d213 It's PITA that '72 SU carb is not easy to remove float bowl lid. I have to remove float bowl everytime to open the lid to adjust float level. I don't remember how many time I remove float bowl to adjust float level, it takes almost all day long and finally I got sort of right level of float for both front and back SU Carb. Front SU carb tends to get more fuel than rear SU carb, I swap fuel line to see whether I can balance to fuel level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitz17 Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Great progress. Hope all works out for you. It's great to have another local Z! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240z Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Tamo are you in the bay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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