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tamo3

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Everything posted by tamo3

  1. found a leak from front right side of brake caliper. It leaks from the bottom of the caliper. Went to pick and Pull and get another caliper from 4Runner. It was pretty clean and looks like rebuild recently. Use wire brush to remove surface rust and use PRO15 metal prep to clean up. Then, paint Red using DupliColor. Need to wait a couple of days to completely dry.
  2. I just picked up 1975 280z. Body condition was amazingly good and minimum rust. Only small dent on the passenger's side of the door and fender. The goal for this project is phased project. 1. To run the engine 2. Fix minor rust 3. 240z bumper and tail light conversion 4. Fuel injection to Triple weber swap. 5. Paint the car Let's see how much progress I can make monthly...
  3. Purchased 3" bracket @ eBay. Test fitting. drilled a hole ¥ Cut it Done.
  4. Hey 75280z, You can purchase Door Upper Molding Rubber Seal from here: https://zcarsource.com/door-upper-molding-rubber-seal-240z-260z-280z-70-78-new
  5. Purchase $39 cheap cold air filter. It comes with air filter, aluminum pipe and small aluminum bracket. The pipe size is too big it won't fit to the rubber boot unless removing O-ring. Looks OK. but without bracket, it's hunging like a d*ck. Plan to create a bracket something like this
  6. Thanks Miles for pointing out for posting wrong forum. create new topic here. Hi, I have a problem to find out right size bleeder nipple for 280zx rear caliper conversion. I read several thread that I need to swap brake line and bleeder nipple in order to put nipple higher position than brake line for bleeding. So, I swapped brake line and nipple input location. However, the nipple won't stop bleeding. I tried Russell's Speed Bleeder (6393630 10MM x 1.00) but result is same. I changed caliper twice (purchased from rock auto) and still same issue. Does anyone have clue?
  7. Thanks Miles. The mystery is solved. The bottom of the brake hose port is not tapered at all. I can see the brake piston. The nipple port has tapered end at the bottom. That's why no matter what nipple I use, no matter how hard I tightened in it did not stop bleeding when I swap nipple and brake hose port. I thought I read somewhere internet someone suggest to swap ports in order to correctly bleeding.... Anyway, thanks a lot of your help! By the way, I purchased rebuild caliper from RockAuto "A-1 CARDONE" brand. It's getting better quality compare to before. It's powder corted with shining silver and internal is also looks clean now. I haven't hooked up Ebrake cable yet. I replace original cable to 280zx cable since the e-brake cable end shape is different.
  8. Hi, I have a problem to find out right size bleeder nipple for 280zx rear caliper conversion. I read several thread that I need to swap brake line and bleeder nipple in order to put nipple higher position than brake line for bleeding. So, I swap brake line and nipple. However, the nipple won't stop bleeding. I tried Russell's Speed Bleeder (6393630 10MM x 1.00) but result is same. Does anyone have suggestion what size of bleeder I should use? Thanks in advance.
  9. Thanks seattlejester. Miles also point it out me too. I started new threaded here. Thus, if possible, can you delete this thread? Thanks!
  10. Thanks NewZed and Miles. The speed bleeder nipple is so short. and DORMAN's OEM version is a bit longer than original. I tried both to put it into the brake hose port. It looks like both bleeder nipples not even touching at the tapered section at all. My guess is brake hose port does not have tapered port. I will check other 280zx caplier's brake hose port. Thanks!
  11. Since I cannot solve the nipple issue, this is the current status.
  12. Hi Miles, Even though I tightened bleeder nipple as tight as I can, brake fluid keep coming out when I press brake pedal. So, I swap back nipple and brake hose input to original location. I put brake caliper flat to make nipple facing up to bleed air, then mount it onto the maxima bracket now.
  13. Working on Door Glass Window Run Felt Rubber Seal replacement. There is a metal plate which old the felt inside was totally rusted. Using a wire brush to remove rust and use Rust Resolver gel to remove rust completely. You can see Before and After! The felt was hold by metal staple, but I don't have it. I used T21 instead.
  14. Thanks NewZed. I will double check once my helper comes back from school to check the rob travel length. I saw video on Facebook that 280z user posted video about Clutch Slave Cylinder. https://youtu.be/0lVqvzw3peE When I check before, my Clutch slave cylinder move much less than 35 mm.
  15. When I check current OEM slave cylinder, it’s about 6.5cm when i’m not pressing clutch pedal.
  16. Thanks NewZed for the info. Is this photo taken when you step on the clutch pedal or not?
  17. I have struggled with the Clutch Slave Cylinder. https://youtu.be/C-_NZFeVp1I It always almost fully extended. I replace the Clutch Slave Cylinder with cheap CENTRIC 139.42002 from Rockauto.com. It costs $6.32..... I replace Clutch Master Cylinder to 15/17 version from 280ZX too. Today, I purchased Genuine Clutch Slave Cylinder from Nissan Parts center. It still available to purchase. It costs $75.... I compare the size with aftermarket Clutch Slave Cylinder. The aftermarket cylinder has stronger and longer spring inside. The rod length is almost same. due to the spring, the default length is longer than OEM version. This could be the reason, the slave cylinder is pushing too much on the fork.
  18. tamo3

    260z - Part Identification

    Was your car an automatic?
  19. My '75 280z engine looks like leaking oil from rear crankshaft oil seal. I'm about to order the oil seal part, http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Engine-280Z/Cylinder-Block Parts number is 12279-R4601 SEAL-OIL CRANKSHAFT It cost $40-$50 I saw someone is using 240SX part# 12279-5L310 It only cost around $10. http://www.pitroad-ts.com/tuning-page/tsuchiya240.htm I wonder those are interchangeable?
  20. Hi, I'm having issue on clutch. Even though replace to new Clutch slave cylinder, the cylinder pin push out clutch folk all the way to the end. Do I need to replace clutch pressure plate?
  21. Is there anywhere I can find information on how to find out correct length of the collar?
  22. Thanks for the feedback. I've been working with brake issue. Just realize I used wrong bleeder size cause the problem. I'm afraid of the clutch though away bearing size is the wrong size since I replace my tranny to FS5W71C(240SX tranny). Does anyone swap tranny to 71C and replace the though away bearing?
  23. Thanks Leon for quick reply. I'm still trying to figure out this and brake line. So, when engine start running, will this clutch folk push in the clutch slave cylinder? When I step on the clutch pedal I don't feel any traction at all.
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