m1ghtymaxXx Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 I know it's been covered all over the net, but I figured I'd start a discussion here. I'm replacing a fair bit of sheet metal on my S130, and after all the work I'm putting into it, i'd like to preserve for another couple decades. I've read about weld through zinc primers, and it seems they need to be removed from the welded surface anyways, and they burn off around the vicinity of the weld, making me wonder what the point is in the first place. I've already picked up a quart of POR15. My plan is to brush a strip on between rosette welds, leaving an inch gap or so from the weld location. I figured the the weld is best sealed afterwards, to avoid burning the product off. My idea for a solution is to melt a solid wax down into the lapped sheets. This way the wax can flow in the heat, but once cooled, it should't wick out and ruin the adhesion of another coat of POR15 and seam sealer. Does this seem logical to anyone else? And can anyone recommend a wax? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 The weld through primers usually leave some zinc behind in the HAZ. I would not worry about the lap itself. If you started with clean, rust free parts and then seal both sides of the lap with body seam sealer after welding you should be fine. BTW... after working on a couple S30s that had POR15 applied, I'm not a fan of that stuff. Good high zinc, rust inhibiting primer and paint on clean, rust free surfaces do a very good job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted May 25, 2012 Author Share Posted May 25, 2012 There are places where I'm lapping over pitted metal (rust taken of with steel brush. Do you think this would still suffice or should I be looking at a rust converter product before hand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage-TechZ Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 There are places where I'm lapping over pitted metal (rust taken of with steel brush. Do you think this would still suffice or should I be looking at a rust converter product before hand? John hit upon a key point....clean metal. Your describing additional remaining rust....and rust NEVER sleeps. The Zinc aided spray primers work great, but only on well prepped metals. (READ CLEAN). If you cannot honestly get ALL of the rust out prior to welding....then cut it out and shape your own butt-weld patches from sheet. Your work will be re-visited if you don't.....and always sooner than you'd want. Trust us on this ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 BTW... after working on a couple S30s that had POR15 applied, I'm not a fan of that stuff. mind explainging this? not a fan because it's a paint to remove? or prople slop it on an inch thick? or does not work as intended? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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