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DIY CAS for L28ET angle settings


macambra

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You shouldn't have to do that, as long as it was in a decent spot before the wheel swap, it should be alright now. Change tooth #1 angle until your commanded timing matches your actual timing. Use the fixed timing option and set it to 15 or 20 degrees, then change the angle in TS until your timing pointer matches your fixed advance.

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The factory setting for the oilpump shaft is correct. If it was working before, it will work now. Set the distributor like it was and see of the rotor contact trailing edge is lined up when #1 CYL is at TDC on compression stroke. Just turn the distributor to set it like this. Leave the shaft alone.

 

Sam

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The factory setting for the oilpump shaft is correct. If it was working before, it will work now. Set the distributor like it was and see of the rotor contact trailing edge is lined up when #1 CYL is at TDC on compression stroke. Just turn the distributor to set it like this. Leave the shaft alone.

 

Sam

That's the issue, I cannot line up the trailing edge. I am at the limit of my distributor adjustment, and the rotor is only centered to the #1 wire in the cap.

 

I hope it's ok to keep posting in this thread, at least I am mostly on topic of the DIY wheel settings. As soon as I try to crank it over to time number 1 to the TDC mark, it's 10-20 degrees advanced. I reduced the Tooth #1 angle setting to 325, and the advance increased. So I increased the 345 to 365, and I couldn't get a spark. That's why I think the distributor timing is off.

 

You folks make it sound easy, and I've been wrenching on this car for over 20 years; what the heck am I missing?

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Are you aligning the dist shaft like this?

oilpumpshaft2.jpg

 

I use the rear edge of the top dist mount screw hole and the front edge of the bottom dist mount screw hole - a straight line drawn through those two points should be parallel to the tang on the oilpump driveshaft.

 

I'd be surprised if it ran well before with the Z31 ECU if the shaft was not installed correctly.

 

Are you sure you are looking at the trailing edge of the contact? Remember, the dist turns counter-clockwise.

 

You can also set the #1 cyl at the max advance you would run and see if the contact lines up.

 

Complete lack of spark at the plug could be something else entirely. There is a lot of voltage and it wants to go somewhere - usually to the wrong cylinder - which occasionally would be #1. If the oilpump shaft is installed incorrectly, I would still expect it to have spark, just at the wrong time. Try putting the timing light pickup on the coil wire to be certain it is firing.

 

Sam

Edited by Sam280Z
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Checked it all again at TDC. With the distributor at the most advanced adjustment, there is perhaps 1/8" worth of rotor contact to the trailing edge of cylinder #1 post. I rotated it to 20 degrees BTDC and have some rotor contact to spare, so I should get plenty of spark advance to at least run the engine. Have not re-tried to time MS, very short on time and attention, but perhaps tonight if my fuel rail holds pressure.

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