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Best cam for a 383 stroker (modified sbc 350)


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Hey guys,

 

Im building a custom SBC 383 stroker. Its really just a 350 block that has been made to accomodate a longer stroke crank if you guys haven't heard of it. What I'm stuck on now, is what cam to get. I don't know what duration size would be best, and whether or not a hydraulic roller, or hydraulic tappet would perform better. The car is going to be used for everyday driving, and drag racing. I'd like to get a wide RPM range if possible but whatever works. Iv'e seen some other people asking this question with little to no feedback so I think this will be beneficial to all. Thanks

 

-Jack

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Hey guys,

 

Im building a custom SBC 383 stroker. Its really just a 350 block that has been made to accomodate a longer stroke crank if you guys haven't heard of it. What I'm stuck on now, is what cam to get. I don't know what duration size would be best, and whether or not a hydraulic roller, or hydraulic tappet would perform better. The car is going to be used for everyday driving, and drag racing. I'd like to get a wide RPM range if possible but whatever works. Iv'e seen some other people asking this question with little to no feedback so I think this will be beneficial to all. Thanks

 

-Jack

 

Hi Jack,

You don't ask the second all important question. The first, you answered by stating the engine's planned future. The second is what size heads? With a 383 deep breather, you should be looking at big valve aluminum heads 2.02/1.60 minimums with a roller valve train. After which, your cam will be a compromise between street and strip and should be purchased from a custom builder, not the big box usual vendors. Your best avenue, is to discuss the planned usage with a custom cam builder who provides heads as well. This insures the valve train will be commensurate with the cam's events. You should include a forged bottom end with the usual go-fast treatments, as well. Unless someone chimes in with a similar engine build that has been dynoed and can offer particulars, it's damn hard for anyone to offer cam proper advice. Every engine can be different, yet, built the same?

Good Luck!

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Jack:

 

Strongly consider a 1996-1999 350 vortec block. The reason is that it was designed as a roller lifter block with lifter bores 0.30 inch taller than before. This is a geometry advantage when using a more aggressive lift profile on the camshaft. Compcams has a good program for selecting camshafts. Given a good bottom end block, the power producers are the cylinder heads, performance camshaft selected to take advantage of the cylinder heads and a induction system to match the cylinder heads. The cylinder heads need to have strong valve springs to accommodate the designed RPM range. The highest performance camshaft would be for SOLID ROLLER LIFTERS as the profile can provide higher (and honest) lift and steeper opening ramp to accommodate the flow numbers for the cylinder heads. Suggest SRP Pro Pistons (light weight plus thin and effective rings), 6 inch Scat I beam connecting rods and 3.75 stroke crankshaft all balanced internally. Neutral balance fluidamper and neutral balance flywheel/flexplate.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys i need help on what i need for my 383 stroker to be turbo. I have the block bored .60 over, scoop top pistions, Iron eagle heads...

What manifold do i need, carb, turbo, cam, lifters, roller rockers, pushrods ect.

 

I was thinking of an Isky mega cam with 304 duration, a Demon 750 carb, and 1.5 roller rockers... Is that ok for a tubrbo set up or twin turbo.

 

Please let me know. Im new to all this.

 

And what manuel trans can i use... I was thinking T56. But like i said im new to all this.

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Why to you need turbo(s)? If the 383 is done properly, HP and TQ can be 500+ each. Be careful with a .060" over block. Have the cylinder walls Sonic tested for thickness. Having gone .060" over, it likely an OLD style block and core shift may be present. Read my previous POST and think about it carefully! These later style blocks usually need only .030" over bore. The REAL benefit of the later block is the DEEPER/LONGER lifter bores. Much better geometry for AGGRESSIVE camshafts. The camshaft and cylinder head specs go hand in hand. Also consider 1.6 ratio rocker arms for better more aggressive valve lift to accommodate cylinder head flow numbers. And lastly, strong springs for cylinder head and THICK wall push rods that reduce flexing.

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Why to you need turbo(s)? If the 383 is done properly, HP and TQ can be 500+ each. Be careful with a .060" over block. Have the cylinder walls Sonic tested for thickness. Having gone .060" over, it likely an OLD style block and core shift may be present. Read my previous POST and think about it carefully! These later style blocks usually need only .030" over bore. The REAL benefit of the later block is the DEEPER/LONGER lifter bores. Much better geometry for AGGRESSIVE camshafts. The camshaft and cylinder head specs go hand in hand. Also consider 1.6 ratio rocker arms for better more aggressive valve lift to accommodate cylinder head flow numbers. And lastly, strong springs for cylinder head and THICK wall push rods that reduce flexing.

Thanks man.

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It is really NICE that someone is listening to honest advice.

 

Most of the aftermarket crankshaft manufacturers have more of a supply of earlier crankshafts for the earlier 350 block castings. In most cases the lighter cranks are ONLY available for earlier 350 block castings. Maybe one can special order lighter cranks in the 1 piece rear main seal configuration. Scat offers Q-Light (lighter weight) connecting rods for 350 applications. SRP has professional (forged) pistons that are just the appropriate configuration for best squish/quench. They are costly but worth the value. Mate these with AirFlowResearch cylinder heads, deck the block to get maximum squish without the piston kissing the cylinder head, then lower octane fuel can be used for a faster burn. Then the engine has tolerable static compression ratio without the threat of detonation with reduced octane.

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