240z AWD swap!

[nat0_240_chevZ]

My thoughts......
It would be easier to drop the GTR sump and diff all together, and build a modified front crossmember to house a small housing diff from say GKN drivelines/dana, or maybe something along the lines of an r160 or r180 (Fuji), much like in the 720 ute, sierra, offroad racing diffs etc.
This way you can retain the 'rearmost' engine mount position (nice and close to the firewall, where it belongs) along with a decent sized sump (also a GR flaw),
with a provision for the Transfer shaft & diff snout to run right next to it.

Serious engine rail mods will be needed to accomodate, much like the GTR 'Humps' for the front half shafts.
You will end up with an asymetric front drive which may envoke torque steer somewhat.
This can be partially designed out of the system by using different half shaft dia's with differing elastic modulus'

I would also go as far to say to utilise a 26 crossmember as a working platform. (skyline front x-members do mount up. check the hole centres)
-revert stering to behind the front axel (existing skyline or similar)
-swap your castor rod pickups to the front via (ensure these are heavilly braced as these will be what transfers front drive to the chassis) or look at an 'A'-arm pickup near the old TC mount.
-add diff mounting to either a semi-sub-frame on this front cradle or fabricate it in situ. (could even solid mount the rb and build around a 'bolt up' kit to the side of the motor)

There is a significant amount of room up front with and 'L6' platform, especially if you do not use the stock rb26 sump/diff assy.

I myself am not interested in putting this into action, however I do have a 26 bottom and rb25 mounted in what I feel is the perfect spot.
I would happilly sketch out the sub-frame req'd to house such monster to the right person(s)

Diff ratio's will need to be matched perfectly of course, along with rolling dia's of your tyres/rims etc.

here is some inspiration pics, althought weight may be a problem, but im sure that can be overcome.
nat0

Edited February 4, 2013 by nat0_240_chevZ

[Chris Duncan]

This topic is very interesting as this is potentially my next project, the only difference is I'll be using a 280Z. They are cheaper, usually in better shape, and more readily available in this area. 

 

Here's what I have so far.

 

The main questions to be answered

 

1) How to control the ATTES ET-S?

 

2) which diffs to use front and rear?

 

3) Does the trans with transfer case fit in the Z tunnel?

 

4) Front or rear rack and pinion and which unit?

 

5) Which front suspension/brakes?

 

6) Which rear suspension/brakes?

 

7) What is a rough cost estimate?

 

----------------------------------------------

 

1) How to control the ATTES ET-S?

Some of the clips come with the factory controller but it's not adjustable.

How about the "Full Race" adjustable controller for $600?

http://www.full-race.com/store/r14-awd-skyline/ets-pro-center-diff-torque-split-controller-for-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gt-r-1.html

 

 

You also need the factory actuator pump/solenoid assembly. Hopefully this can be found used and separate from a clip.

 

 

Here's a clean custom install showing the actuator assembly

http://www.speedhunters.com/2010/03/car_feature_gt_gt_garage_ito_with_prostock_gt_r/

 

-----------------------------------------

 

2) which diffs to use front and rear?

 

It would be nice to use the factory diff in the front, because it's included with the swap engines and it's aluminum. Assuming this is an open diff? It needs to be moved forward on the engine/pan so the engine can be moved back against the Z firewall.

 

This s30 builder in Auckland was looking at an AWD potentially but he's just doing RWD for now. He was thinking the front diff needs to come forward on the engine about 9.5"

(scroll down about 1/10 of the page)

http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=60319#p60319

 

 

 

The guys at Full Race did a R14 RB26 AWD build. That's the reason they developed the ATTES controller. They moved the diff forward 7". It shows where they cut the pan but it doesn't show it after it's welded. Assuming they welded it up because they don't say otherwise. 

http://nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=2680

 

 

This Pro Stock GTR has the diff moved forward 8", and they cut the pan to do it.

http://www.speedhunters.com/2010/03/car_feature_gt_gt_garage_ito_with_prostock_gt_r/

 

 

I also think that Nat0's idea of a separate diff in the front is viable. Just build an oil pan separate from the diff.  Full Race says you need a limited slip rear diff and I'm assuming that the front diff is open. What is available with matching ratios in an aluminum housing, locker rear and open front? What ratio is best here? I'm thinking 3.6 but the R32 is 4.1?

 

 

------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 

3) Does the trans with transfer case fit in the Z tunnel?

 

The Aukland builder attempted to answer this one. He thinks it can be done just bumping out or adding a panel on the existing tunnel, that it won't interfere with the seats.

(2/5 down the page)

http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=60319#p60319

 

 

The Full Race Guys did a clip job using the tunnel/firewall from a R32 clip, they said they wanted it to look OEM. I think this is a little excessive, but I think they also did this to move the firewall back, which is not necessary with the s30.

(1/2 way down the page)

http://nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=2680

 

 

I really think transfer clearance can be accomplished by bumping out or adding small panels in the floor by the tunnel.

 

 

------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

4) Front or rear rack and pinion and which unit?

This question is tied into the front suspension choice but it deserves some separate discussion.

 

 

The Aukland builder is going with the s30 unit, mainly because he's retaining the s30 front suspension (for now).  Full Race is going with the R32 because they are using the R32 front suspension.

 

It would be nice to retain the s30 unit, it's lighter than anything with power assist and has a nice quick ratio. Hopefully the car is still not too heavy in front to need power. But the front uprights have to be swapped for AWD and that's going to dictate whether the rack is front or rear. So this question gets answered when the front suspension choice is made.

 

Here's an interesting rack solution that may be overkill. They went to extremes, probably to avoid bump steer.

http://www.speedhunters.com/2010/03/car_feature_gt_gt_garage_ito_with_prostock_gt_r/

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

5) Which front suspension/brakes?

 

The Aukland builder did not discuss the front suspension for AWD, he was using s30 stuff because he's initially running RWD.

 

The Full Race guys are using a mix of parts, some z32 some r32, come custom. They don't really say what they ended up with. They are also using the r32 sub frame.

 

I'm thinking of two options, the z32 upright with some custom arms, or a generic FWD strut with a custom lower arm. Something that has 5 lug hub and can put upgraded 4 piston calipers. The z32 and r32 are rear steer so that dictates the rack and pinion being the same. What is a good manual rear steer rack with a fast ratio? Something equivalent to the s30 rack, it just seems like a nice piece.

 

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

6) Which rear suspension/brakes?

 

Both the Aukland builder and Full Race are using the r32 rear sub frame and suspension. The Aukland guy added urethane bushings. The Full Race guys don't really get specific on this aspect.

 

I'm seeing two options, either an upgraded s30 setup, with a custom tube lower arm and a 5 lug hub and upgraded brakes. Or the r32 setup but upgraded to reduce weight. Maybe copying the geometry and replacing the sub frame and arms with tubing. Something like the Pro Stock GT-R but not that excessive.

 

I think just for the street and maybe an occasional track day you could get by with a basic strut suspension. Stiffer springs, bigger roll bars and urethane links combined with heim joints would help that choice also. The Full Race guys and the Pro Stock car are competitive race cars, my project doesn't have that goal.

 

------------------------------------------------

 

 

7) What is a rough cost estimate?

 

I've already been told this is going to be $25K to $30K. I'm going to try for less than $20K. The last project went way overboard such that I can't afford to keep it. This one is going to be more compromise and more sweat equity.

 

$1500       Builder 280Z 

$4500        RB32 engine trans ecu harness

$1600      Wheels and tires

$1500       Flares, air dam, spoiler

$  400         Racing seats

$1500         Build materials, steel tubing, alum sheet, SS header tube, etc

$1400        Coilovers

$1500        Suspension parts, urethane bush, uprights, hubs, etc.

$1500        Custom CV axles

$1800        Brakes

$  300        Aluminum radiator

$  300        Intercooler

$  500        ECU chip

$  600          ATTES controller

$3000        Miscellaneous

$21,900      Total (oops, already over)

Edited April 15, 2013 by Chris Duncan

[Vintage-TechZ]

....and nearly a year later.......a thread revival,lol.......................


Lots of good info and theory here. Due to my job relocation to SoCal, my wide body AWD RB26dett project went to the crusher along with several cars and parts. I was  only given 30 days to move from the midwest to the coast. They didn't care that I'd been on the road for ten years for them and needed extra time to sell off 13 cars and gut a 3 bedroom,3 car garage house and all the ancillary car related items. It was a huge loss in furniture,cars,rare parts etc. No room to store any of that not to mention cost for square footage.

Anyway......back to the AWD portion of this. A few of you such as Stoney and Mark R. have said/done.....going the tube chassis route like I was doing is certainly the right way to get it done solidly. Lifting the body up and away and lowering it many times as points become more clear works. Hacking away at the S30 floorboards is a ridiculous venture. Seriously better to go tube and weld pick-up points once all the footprint is established. Jig the chassis with round tube or square tube then cut the entire floor out leaving the firewall and dash points. You'll add sheet metal to replace the floors and seat mounts later that will be better anyway.

I had built a rolling jig with additional slide mechanisms because I also was widening the car width-wise 10". That was done for the most part. I also delayed things with a slight chop top from front to back -( 3" front to infinity rear blend).

If I had just done a rear wheel drive RB and forgone all the other dream driven goals I'd been driving it still today I'm sure. I never saw the job transfer coming and thus shot myself in the foot good! We are 20 something and then BAM ! 50,lol.
 

I managed to bring my last restored S30 L28det car out here with me along with the full AWD drivetrain,electronics,subframes,brakes,axles, trans, engine etc. But its in the way at my new composites shop. Its time to find a local fabricator to hand off and get it built to drive and enjoy......and to open up some floor space too,lol.

I'd love to do it at least using the rear R33 subframe and axles and brakes......my first car was a 70' 240, but at this point in my life - (age 51), I just want to enjoy the ride again.

[Chris Duncan]

Anyway......back to the AWD portion of this. A few of you such as Stoney and Mark R. have said/done.....going the tube chassis route like I was doing is certainly the right way to get it done solidly. Lifting the body up and away and lowering it many times as points become more clear works. Hacking away at the S30 floorboards is a ridiculous venture. Seriously better to go tube and weld pick-up points once all the footprint is established. Jig the chassis with round tube or square tube then cut the entire floor out leaving the firewall and dash points. You'll add sheet metal to replace the floors and seat mounts later that will be better anyway.

 

I had built a rolling jig with additional slide mechanisms because I also was widening the car width-wise 10". That was done for the most part. I also delayed things with a slight chop top from front to back -( 3" front to infinity rear blend).

 

This proj is on the back burner due to a Chumpcar 280Z. But it WILL be picked up again. I did get to the point of fabbing the oil pan/ diff and I think that is the biggest key to getting this proj done. The RB26 is way forward in the Skyline. In the Z it has to go back about 6" to 8". Actually the oil pan bolts aligned pretty well to move the diff forward. Some of the oil pan threads had to be made to through holes and some of the through holes had to be threaded so the bolts could go from the other direction. Also there is now one bolt that installs from inside the diff.

 

It's all tacked in place with a new larger rear located sump just like the time attack R32 on Speedhunters. All it lacks is being welded and I'm waiting to sell a car so I can buy a bigger TIG machine, something that welds to 5/16". I have some warpage just with some short welds so need to research that also. The local  precision welders wanted $1200 just to weld it all together, that's a good down on a larger welder.

 

I have a R32 front chassis clip and may just graft that to the Z. There's pics of the rear suspension going into the Z. But the tube chassis idea sounds okay also.

 

I've already purchase the FullRace AWD controller so that's another key piece to the puzzle. The orginal factory controller was quite primitive and was not adjustable. This should be better since the front rear weight distribution and other aspects like tires will be different / variable.

 

I did get the Enkei RPF1's in 17 x 9.5. So it's going to have those all around.

 

I want a gated exhaust that will switch between a straight pipe out the side or a muffler out the back. Possibly with a sliding door on the side exhaust. So you would see the door slide open, then a 3" exhaust extend out like a cannon, then open the gate.

 

There's a place in Australia that makes a turbo OH kit for these turbos because they have boost limiting ceramic wheels. Pretty affordable but assume they would have to be balanced after.

 

I know what you're talking about time flying. But you hopefully have more money as you get older. I got a CNC mill so that should make the machining aspect easier if I can just get a handle on the CAM program.

 

Staying with the stock brake calipers but going with 2 piece rotors (much lighter). The rotor part of this from Wilwood is very affordable (like the AZ Z car kit) but I'm doing my own hats with the CNC.

Edited February 12, 2014 by Chris Duncan

[Vintage-TechZ]

As with anything worth tackling, these things take time. Stepping off from time to time to study all angles can yield a 'Best' outcome. The Full Race team had a nice budget and end game in play that worked well for them...but you and I seem to both want something milder than a track only car out of this.

I love their Manifold/turbo kits, very nice components along wight eh newer EFR Borg Warner turbos. 

1)-BW-EFR turbos
2)-FR Twin manifold in stainless
3)-FR merge pipes

Adds up to about $6k pretty quick even BEFORE a AWD controller or AEM stand alone.

~ Do you have any pix of your new pan configuration?
~ Are you utilizing the R32 front and rear subframe assemblies?

[Chris Duncan]

As with anything worth tackling, these things take time. Stepping off from time to time to study all angles can yield a 'Best' outcome. The Full Race team had a nice budget and end game in play that worked well for them...but you and I seem to both want something milder than a track only car out of this.

 

I love their Manifold/turbo kits, very nice components along wight eh newer EFR Borg Warner turbos. 

 

1)-BW-EFR turbos

2)-FR Twin manifold in stainless

3)-FR merge pipes

 

Adds up to about $6k pretty quick even BEFORE a AWD controller or AEM stand alone.

 

~ Do you have any pix of your new pan configuration?

~ Are you utilizing the R32 front and rear subframe assemblies?

 

I'm going stock on the ECU and turbos, at least at first, the power gain will be by dropping the total weight. Just blend and port match the head, maybe some Chinese SS exh manifolds (re-welded), less restrictive exhaust and intake.

 

Going to strip the car, plexi windows maybe even a lexan windshield, no carpet. Something that you want to wear earplugs with. Full race as possible but still keeping it streetable. Of course then you have to define streetable. Like maybe not super long trips but good day trips bombing canyons or something. But trackdays too for sure cuz it's more legal.

 

Haven't made up my mind on the subframes, was thinking of building them from bent round tube but that would probably take too much time. I have the front clip and was thinking about just grafting it on, then I would use the R32 front subframe with maybe some tube A-arms front and rear. Was also thinking about welding the rear sub frame on if there could be some pieces  trimmed to make the whole thing a bit lighter. Do away with the rubber mounts of course, going with urethane every where else anyway. Maybe some rod ends here and there also for more rigidity.

 

The stock R32 brakes, except for lighter rotors as already mentioned, with a car that's 600 to 800 lbs lighter should be fine.

 

The ZG flares, but the wider rear flares on both front and rear since the wheels/tires are the same size on all corners cuz of AWD.

 

One of these Sunday's I'll draw the pan in Solidworks, the bolt, bolt hole, stud hole changeover is pretty complex, it's not going to show up in pics very well. It's pretty similar to the Pan in the Speedhunters pic as far as the sump.

Edited February 26, 2014 by Chris Duncan

[Chris Duncan]

This thing is back on the front burner.

 

The chassis is stripped and upside down on the rotisserie. Thinking for putting in the suspension going to bolt the chassis to the floor upside down, otherwise it's going to mean crawling around underneath and welding overhead.

 

The suspension subframes are probably going to be 1.5" tubing either welded in directly or solid bolted. But haven't totally given up possibly using the stock subframes, maybe with a bit of lightening they will work. Don't see any reason to duplicate the factory double isolation of all rubber suspension arm mounts in addition to rubber subframe mounts. It's going to be just urethane inner suspension mounts and subframe solid to the chassis. The rear subframe weighs about 50 lbs. and a 1.5" tubing subframe will weigh about 25 lbs.

 

Everything is close enough that it's all going to fit under the outer body. The closest it comes to hitting is the front upper arms where they swing upwards, it's going to be 1/4" below the outer fender. The front strut top centers are within 1/2" of each other from car to car. The R32 is 2" wider between the front frame rails and 5.5" wider track. The R32 front chassis clip is getting cut off behind the front strut/suspension towers and grafted onto the S30. The front of the R32 chassis clip will have to be narrowed in the front and possibly lowered. This works out because the front of the S30 is all rusted, and it also helps having the R32 front frame rails because they have a big curve to go over the front axles. This will also make the front upper suspension mounts easy because it would be complex to fab them onto the Z front towers.

 

The rear is going to require some cutting into the area of the storage bins and this will be strengthened with some beaded sheet angled down behind the seats. Another thing that really works out is the rear struts are in the same spot from car to car, amazing. So the rear towers can be utilized where they are.

 

Got some year old Toyo Proxes from Tirerack on sale. Went with a 245-35-R17. Racing a Z for a year gets you realistic about what size rubber works best. 245 is wide enough and the 35 profile will keep the car lower.

 

Right now one of the sticking points is the steering rack. Want a manual rack with less than 3 turns lock to lock. The problem is the R32 chassis is RHD and the Z is LHD, plus the Z is front steer and the R32 rear steer. Was looking at flipping the Z rack over and building a pinion gearbox housing that would change it from front to rear steer but this won't work because of the 10 deg pinion gear angle, it ends up pointing the wrong way. Also the R32 is 29" between inner joint centers and this needs to be preserved to avoid bumpsteer. This is hard to find in a quick turn manual rack. All the custom racks I can find are like 4 turns. So if anyone knows of a manual, quick ratio, rear steer, LHD rack with close to 29" between inner joint centers it would be helpful. Something like 27" would work, it could be spaced out to 29".

 

Two other things I've noted. The suspension changes from R32 to R34. They changed to an upper A-arm in front as opposed to the R32's rectangular upper arm. Guessing this is for more rigidity. And in the rear they changed the circular upper arm that goes around the strut to a half circle. Was wondering if anyone has thoughts on these changes? The front arm would be tricky to change, the R32 front tower suspension mounts are just not conducive to this. But the rear change would just be a bolt in.

Edited July 22, 2015 by Chris Duncan

[Chris Duncan]

The rear subframe is going in quite nicely. Not near as much cutting out of the stock chassis as previously thought. One place that has saved weight and cutting of the body is to cut the short link inner mount off the sub frame and locate it to the body. This mount is very close to the body to start with, it will only be about 2.5" long as opposed to where it comes off the subframe it's about 9" long. So this also saves about 2 pounds. The vibration weights, all 4 rubber isolators, the short link inner mounts, and all ebrake cable brackets etc have been cut off and the subframe is now about 12 pounds lighter than stock. So since this is getting near to the weight of a scratch build tubing subframe I'm just going to go with this, it's a lot less work.

 

Another positive aspect is that most of the chassis mods show up inside the rear storage compartments so very little will even be seen inside the cab.

 

Cutting off the short link inner mount is kind of tricky. If left on the subframe while fitting it would require as much chassis cutting as all the other cuts combined. The bolt hole axis is not parallel to any of the 3 regular planes. So instead of trying to measure an axis that is angular in all directions just made a jig that locates the bolt hole. This jig does not interfere with the body, so no cutting just to locate a mount that is welded to the body.

 

The existing chassis cuts go right through the square bracing that goes from the rear diff mounts towards the lower floor pan rails. Thinking to add some 2" square thin wall tubing here and also incorporate the front subframe solid mounts into that. Was thinking I should just weld the subframe directly to the chassis but leaning towards making it solid bolted, with two 10mm or 12mm bolts in each corner.

 

A couple of setbacks though. Thought I measured carefully when choosing wheel size and checking coverage of the ZG flares. Had set the subframe/suspension assembly, with wheels/tires, under the chassis to check the track width. The ZG flares covered the tires with about 3/8" to spare. But now that I'm checking again coming up about 1" short. The first measure was 18 months ago, don't know where the difference has come from. Now I'm either going to have to source wider flares or add some extension to these. Really like the look of the ZG's so probably will go with widening them.

 

The other problem is ride height. When locating the Skyline diff in the same place as the stock diff, and setting the axles parallel to ground, it comes out with 6" of ground clearance. Part of this is a larger diameter than stock wheel/tire combo, but since we need closer to a 3.5" to 4" ground clearance I may try to lower the subframe in the chassis, or more accurately raise it to lower ground clearance. This is pretty easy in the rear but the front end will be difficult. The front upper arm is already within 1/4" of the fender at full bump so the front 3rd link will have to be shortened by 1". I think it's better to lower this way than just adjusting some coil-overs downwards, it tends to preserve the geometry better. Will still need to do some of the lowering with the coil-overs but not anything extreme.

 

A Bosch laser aligner/level is making this project a lot easier. One set up and the chassis is level in all directions, another single setup and the stock diff is located in 3 planes and axle centerline marked in 4 positions on the body. Previously this type of work involved a cluster*uck of fiddling with multiple bubble levels and 5 ft rulers taped onto carpenter squares, and then ending up with a suspect measurement anyway.

Edited July 26, 2015 by Chris Duncan

[MrPhotographer06]

AWESOME! cant wait to see more!

[Chris Duncan]

The chassis is coming along nicely. Using the front Skyline clip is working out because the Z clip was very rusted in the front and the Skyline is near immaculate, so that saved a lot of rust repair.

 

The front Skyline clip is a necessity for this swap for 2 reasons. The frame rails are wider and curve over the front CV axles, and the strut towers and suspension mounts are way different from the Z, it would be a lot of complex fabrication to make these mounts from scratch.

 

Compared to the Z the firewall on the Skyline is 5" forward in relation to the axle centerline, also the radiator support is 5" further forward from the axle centerline. The firewall distance is no problem since the section is between the firewall and the towers. But in front of the towers there will have to be another section to move the rad support back 5". So in summary the engine compartments are the same length, the difference is the axle location is 5" forward in the Skyline.

 

The other issue is fender mounting. The front of the Skyline clip, forward of the towers is too wide to fit under the fenders, it's getting cut off and probably will put in a tubing front frame using just the bottom of the rad support. The fenders, headlight buckets and hood hinge mounts will all bolt to this tube frame.

[Chris Duncan]

The chassis is almost done.

 

The rear subframe mounts and clearances are almost all done, with the location raised up 1" in the chassis to lower the car without changing the geometry as much. There's really not much cutting on the Z chassis in the rear. This was achieved by cutting off the front upper link inner mount off the subframe and putting it directly on the Z chassis, and also by pounding the chassis in about 3"  where the front diff mount runs by the underside of the two storage compartments (behind the seats). This pounded bulge is totally hidden inside the two compartments. This may sound sort of like butchery at first but if you look at the stock Z chassis in this area it is very wrinkled from the manufacturing stamping process. And you aren't cutting or introducing weld heat so it may be better overall. The subframe is solid mounted with eight 12x1.25 bolts, two in each corner.

 

R32 coilovers are being used front and rear. The rear coilover strut upper mount location is close but not exactly the same. The rear upper mounts will be lowered and moved a little forward, so the strut tower area in the chassis will have to be opened up somewhat forwards.

 

The front R32 clip is grafted onto the Z right behind the front strut towers. It is also raised up 1" to lower the car like the rear. The stock R32 ground clearance is 5.5 inches which is a little high for a track car. I found out that almost all aftermarket coilovers start out 1" shorter than stock. Most of them have adjustable length but none start out the same length as stock. This means the top of the strut tower can be lowered which may help with fender hood clearance where it runs over the strut tower because it is very close in this area.

 

The R32 frame rails are 2" wider over all and .5" wider individually from the Z. The transition from the R32 rails to the Z rails is achieved with tapered rails in the front floorboard area. The R32 rails are way stronger than the Z rails and kick up over the front CV axles. Plus they incorporate all the R32 front subframe mounts.

 

I was going to section the front of the R32 clip to move the radiator support backwards the required 5" but just decided to cut it completely off and build a tube frame front. The only thing utilized off the stock support is the bottom square section that has the bottom rad mounts.

 

The cage is all cut, fit and tacked into place. Just a standard 6 point SCCA cage. Tweaked the door bar X's just a little to move the center of the X a little forward to make it easier to get in and out.

 

After about 6 months work this thing is going back on the back burner. Need to get the racecar ready for the upcoming Chumpcar season. 

Edited October 19, 2015 by Chris Duncan

[Vintage-TechZ]

Sounds good. Looking forward to update pix!

[MrPhotographer06]

What is your WMS to WMS measurement?

[Chris Duncan]

What is your WMS to WMS measurement?

I'm at work right now so can't measure but from my fading memory it's about 5" wider than the stock Z

[MrPhotographer06]

I'm at work right now so can't measure but from my fading memory it's about 5" wider than the stock Z

Just curious on how that was working out. my front suspension parts have me at59" WMS to WMS.. Dont have a hard figure yet, I'm thinking its 55 factory.

[calZ]

Any updates on this Chris? 

[Chris Duncan]

40 minutes ago, calZ said:

Any updates on this Chris? 

I'm building a new house with a high ceiling garage so I can put a lift so I'm about a year out from getting back to this project.

[calZ]

On 3/16/2019 at 10:29 AM, Chris Duncan said:

I'm building a new house with a high ceiling garage so I can put a lift so I'm about a year out from getting back to this project.

Did you ever get back on this? It was a fun project. Would love to see updates if you have any