nat0_240_chevZ

hi bud, From my measurements from making some similar to these previously. There are 2 versions of the stock rails, and some real early s30's and I dare say the early USA LHD HLS30's had a double thread tow hook on the LH (US Drivers) Side rail end/front only, where most of the later ie 71> had the single symmetrical tow-hook mounting holes with threaded or Weld-nuts in the reo plate at the front. Yes it appears, (from the pics you have posted) that the rails you have, have omitted the slight taper on the in-board face and the top face of the rail so they dont have that "Stock-Look" to them. for most people, this wouldnt matter, only the purist or those really trying to keep the original look to the engine bays of their cars. I can understand why too, as it makes or cast doubt over the car sometimes when you look at it and it looks like its been tampered with, albeit even if done correctly with good workmanship and sound practices etc. there are some rail replacements around which do have the taper you speak of. As for your above mention of a butt-welded rail, yea, no stay away from this unless you are looking at adding a joggled/stepped lap join, to maintain integrity, I never recommend doing this, but like you I had 1 car which needed a front section only (not the rear/main structural section where X-member and TC rod support is), so a carefully manufactured and grafted section with the correct amount of 'taper' (for a later 260z rail, which this particular 240z hs30 had a 260 front clip completely grafted on previously in its life) so the taper is twice the amount of the 240z/hs30, but with a joggled/stepped flange on all 3 sides of the rail section, with 2 plug welds each face, as-well as the 'bevel-butt-weld' naturally left by this joint configuration, is preferred for the structural integ.Required of the rail itself. As the forward section is still responsible for opposing the load of the sway/anti-roll bar and the other forces transferred from the strut towers to the front rad support/tie bars, so it needs to be done quite well. I do have pics of such a joint and fitment of the complete front section only, but in your case this would not be recommended. I hope this doesn't scare you off, but I think the Zedd findings rails are suitable replacements none the less of your ok with the different look. Otherwise you can look for the other styles around and im sure you will have no trouble off-loading your current items. hope this helps Nat0

Any updates? Will they ship to Australia? Horse power is not how drive line items are rated. I'll need torque and duty ratings to decide. Power ratings are derived from speed and torque, and on that note what are the speeds they are tested at and also what bias ratio is offered? Cheers nat0

Hi all, as some of you may have seen of late several posts/topics of everything to do with restoring/replacing or retrofitting. here is another one of them. Aimed at ones whom want a fresh start, with the usual 'looser of any front end battles'. here is the start, the very start, of all the hours I put in to a relatively complex development, hours upon hours of measuring, drawing/drafting, checking, cussing & re-drawing and re-drawing again anad again until they are perfect (or nearly there). This Development is not neccessarilly one I need myself but I do already have the need for the below pictured lower box section, Pics---> see below link The 3rd pic, is also a layout of the front panel from top to bottom, which I am currently working on, again I didnt NEED it but it would be nice to put a new one in and also to help out others. now the only thing left up front it the top cross piece which houses the bonnet latch & corner gussets amongst others. Ill try to keep this thread pretty clear, there will be a few extra bank posts below, for future updates. Cheers Nat0 So I dont have to write up twice, see attached link for updated pics etc. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,12469.0/topicseen.html

yes thats me!!! from a gtr 32 centre i got a used one and machined up some small bushes to bushe the 10mm bolts, works great!!!! nat0

Very nice snarled. You may even need that much extra been depending on engine / suspension load or output. Prolly a bit heavy under the seat, but at least you could even jack your car up from them if you wanted to.

No you'll be fine, But if you did want to replace with 1.6mm thick / 16Ga or 0.063" complete units then let me know, I have got Pics Here!!.......along with everything else available, or to be available soon... I do like What Boy-fromOz has done too, I aggree with John, Re: a comp plate on the firewall to dissipate load around the relatively small back end of the rail-firewall junction. I'll be addressing this issue with an easy to install kit which will mount on the inside of the F/wall under the carpet.......more later Nat0

Happy to send int'l. Bugger the Aus dollar is too high....... Good for us to buy from you guys but not the other way.... Also got floor/tc rod sections complete repairs too. Scrap the car? Only if you want another "-1" for 240z on the roads, props for trying to bring one back from the brink. Need to have or know someone willing to help with the skils req'd to resurect such damage. nat0

updates???

yes, The VQ 4wd is a far better option in regards to the front diff/drive in relation to the motor and its mounts etc. Another candidate is the VQ25det from the nm35 Stagea or infinity you guys also have??? Try giggle for some pics...my mate has the NM35 Stag, it looks like an awesome swap (in lieu of the rb), Maybe with a 30 or 35 motor in exchange but.

My thoughts...... It would be easier to drop the GTR sump and diff all together, and build a modified front crossmember to house a small housing diff from say GKN drivelines/dana, or maybe something along the lines of an r160 or r180 (Fuji), much like in the 720 ute, sierra, offroad racing diffs etc. This way you can retain the 'rearmost' engine mount position (nice and close to the firewall, where it belongs) along with a decent sized sump (also a GR flaw), with a provision for the Transfer shaft & diff snout to run right next to it. Serious engine rail mods will be needed to accomodate, much like the GTR 'Humps' for the front half shafts. You will end up with an asymetric front drive which may envoke torque steer somewhat. This can be partially designed out of the system by using different half shaft dia's with differing elastic modulus' I would also go as far to say to utilise a 26 crossmember as a working platform. (skyline front x-members do mount up. check the hole centres) -revert stering to behind the front axel (existing skyline or similar) -swap your castor rod pickups to the front via (ensure these are heavilly braced as these will be what transfers front drive to the chassis) or look at an 'A'-arm pickup near the old TC mount. -add diff mounting to either a semi-sub-frame on this front cradle or fabricate it in situ. (could even solid mount the rb and build around a 'bolt up' kit to the side of the motor) There is a significant amount of room up front with and 'L6' platform, especially if you do not use the stock rb26 sump/diff assy. I myself am not interested in putting this into action, however I do have a 26 bottom and rb25 mounted in what I feel is the perfect spot. I would happilly sketch out the sub-frame req'd to house such monster to the right person(s) Diff ratio's will need to be matched perfectly of course, along with rolling dia's of your tyres/rims etc. here is some inspiration pics, althought weight may be a problem, but im sure that can be overcome. nat0

Hi Bud, looks like you need some of these...... LINK here floor rails also coming. This kink is an S30 problem, just hitting gutters or kerbs will do this. This is why Nissan wen to a trailing link in almost all of their cars to follow, Hit a gutter and up over she goes, all-be-it cracked rimms and bent control arms. But this is better than what your looking at now i suppose. Nat0

To the above whom have queried for pics, check your PM's Weblink supplied. To the OP, also sent a PM. Cheers John.

take a look at this one.... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360534303217 it is used, but the carrier will bolt in and the shafts will be 29 spliners..... I do recommend getting all this checked, as its no use throwing money away. I had all my dims checked before committing to a 2 way over ebay, but in my case it all worked out well. Nat0

How about...If you would like to maybe save some coin, buy a used Nismo 1.5 way LSD from any or either of the online or other communities? these can be had for under $600 Australian. Heaps of nissans use the R200, you just need to check a few things first. -Spline count on output shafts -Bolt diametre used on Crownwheels -inside Dia. of the crownwheel, (just incase its a weird one, ie not 200mm) try to stay away from the viscous units, yes they do have 1 longer side shaft, but sometime also have funny spline counts, or shaft dia's. nat0

Hi Guys, Need To Use Caps Where Req'd, Got A Warning For Not Doin So, Sorry Guys I Apologise. Only thing is I didnt get a warning for cussing, spelling mistakes or drilling others???? Weird. Anywho, I would have to link you to another site, as it Wont let me post pics either???? (Probably something to do with my slap on the wrist). Please PM me for details and maybe one of you guys can post them up in this post for me. These mounts are only one of many things I have previously manufactured for the S30's, (for my own requirements). I also do Engine bay Chassis rails, Floor rails (STD or Full length including rear frame links). From rear hump RB sumps (although still not quite finished, but no cutting or shutting on these ones.), to pickups and A/C, P/S and alternator mounting brackts for my own custom requirements. nat0

I make them here in aus, engine mount brackets which put the back of the head approx 30-40mm from the firewall, not 6"+ from the firewall, they also lower the engine in the bay slightly (approx 25mm lower), may cause some issues if using a proprietry sum which you will also require. depending on RB** and also the trans your running, i too also make trans mounts to so far suit the early Z "bolt-up" style trans mount. I have sold about 5 sets or so loaclly here in aus, these mounts use OEM mounts if your a streeter, or I do an option of a fully captive mount for more "inspired applications", both types of my engine mounts pass our local inspections by engineering and authorities i dont know how much the other cost but mine are quite reasonable. cheers nat0

Hi ian, ive got the 260z r200 (280z your side of the globe). I installed an aftermarket tomei CLSD 2 way, from an r32 gtr skyline, almost went straight in except the below extra activities. made 10 off small bushes for the crownwheel bolts, ie Z uses M10 and the 32gtre had 13mm bolts (not 12mm for some reason which we all thought they were) so some cylindrical spacers which took up the slop from the holes to the bolt. and i had to get another circlip groove cut into one side output shaft, cant remember which one right or left its been a while, only thing i needed was the supplied shims and bearing races which came from the donor dif housing, checked mesh and its spot on. the 32 gtr output shafts also had 29 splines as does the 260/280z so i still utilise the the Z half shafts with uni-joints. Was a relatively easy swap although i took it to a ""diff professional"" first to get them to do the swap, obviuosly too hard for them, they sent it out to their ""engineer"" whom also said it wouldnt go, taught those guys and their expert a lesson. I had sufficient info and trial fits in front of me to proove it but they almost died when i took it back to them to show them how little work was req'd. almost any 29 spline CLSD will work, subaru/fuji heavy ind know their s*&t, just make sure your not trying to use viscous shafts or 31 spline shafts........ this will open up heaps of avenues for you..... this swap requires you to change the carrier, so open CLSD or whatever the guts goes and the new carrier is a complete assy, just need to whack on your crownwheel and get the mesh right (take to a qualified shop to do so, even some specialist have trouble.) cheers Nat0

Hi Bud I have 1 set available, to mount an rb25 or other rb's . trans mount is to suit early 240 upright vertical bolts, not ear type but. see here http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,7573.msg71475.html#msg71475 let me know cheers Nat0

hi guys, im making myself a sump for the rb25det to slot nice into my 240z, I have my initial template completed which i will be building from, all of which is CNC profile cut and CNC bent to shape, tig fabricated in jigs, will include, as a basic unit, fluted baffling and cage around the pickup. Other options can / will be offered, as i am making mine to a wet race spec, for heavy track work, ie side capicty wings, gated directionl vanes and also external oil fitting/(s) for pumps, coolers etc. Unlike other units around, this sump allows you to retain the original engine to gearbox stiffeners which helps retain rigidity of the engine/trans assy which also helps the rear main seal and rear main bearing live as intended. please see my other post on our aussie forum for more details. AusZcar Link pitching price is only a guestimate (AUD$) at present as noted on the link. sump will be made from 1.2mm, 2pac painted steel, could be made from stainless also, prefer to stay away from ally as its fabrication and req'd thickness becomes quite bulky. Current install suits my custom engine & g/box mounts, which i also make, sits engine back 50mm and about 10-15mm downward and centres the crank between the rails and is pretty much a straight line from front pulley to diff. Im really after interest in this item for now, but come a finished item which can be previewed extensively, would be seeking a show of hands for any numbers and a deposited interest to proceed with one. I am looking to run 1 batch ONLY of these, as my time is very precious and i would like to drive my car in the next decade if possible, any interest please post here or pm me. happy to contribute to the forum also as im only trying to help out any queries please ask. thanks for your time Nat0

the 1500hp figure is the babied, version, checkout the post simon has made from nizpro on nico, too much balls for their dyno, but estimates 2000+ hp. nat0

thats it!!!! and you have them the right way so that the the inj are shooting straight down its throat!!! also need to take a small amount off the outer curve as it fouls o so slightly!! but the casting are almost 5mm thick. yikes!!!!!! plenty of room to port!!! also there is heaps of casting flashing on the inside to, plenty to clean up. also note the injectors are inline too!!! yaa nat0

Ha ha, i WAS already in that process, mocking up the engine mounts with hand cut plates, then laser cut all req'd shapes to click together like lego and take to work to weld on the robotic welder i have full pen weld that look like they were painted on! about 4 or 5 sets, top & bottoms. I was also going to do the sumps but came up with a nifty lil trick with spinning it to make it well 'spinnable' as it wasnt feasable with a straight cut. Yea on the vids i have on youtube you can here my mate, pretty likeable character and was a devastating loss to all, he had only just had his 2nd child, a 12 week old girl, talk about merciful god! wtf??? Will hopefully get back onto the Z in a few weeks, just finished fixing this steal of a almost new hatchback for the miss', piked it up for 4.5k and once fixed and painted (which it will be next week) will sell for atleast 15-16k, will keep it for a while as it has 12 mnths reg, and only just over a yr old!!!! haha only owes me 7.5k on the road so yea will have a bit of spare cash soon!!!! ya bout time i scored!!!! cheers for acknowledgement of our loss here, what can we do but move on.. nat0

whats wrong with doing the in-line lower intake on the vh, like the blue dett vh 240z, just need 2 sets of stock parts!!!! why bother with custom machined items when the stockers are ideal??? just clean up the casting flashing and youre 98% ther to what has been drawn in solid works!!!! my 26.3 c worth, what can i say its been a while. nat0

check out this link!!!! http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/338148 my terrorising of the s30 until my mate sadly passed away, put everything on hold bigtime, as i we were in the workshop we rent together. he was also the one who talked me into the swap and to get rid of the boat anchor chev. the blue car was some of his inspiration to have a sik vh45 240z, and was/is mine too. i almost had the vh mounted so that the hood still shuts with stock inlet, although i was still planning to make same one as shown on the blue car as it is stock runners with a custom cover with throt bodies added at the front, you can re-arrange 2 sets of stock runners so the line up like that. have a look at the link, in the link and youll find the photo gal on photophuket!!! chers nate

can you take an end view shot, sort of angled down to look squarely at where the failure would occur on the good (well nearly farked) stub (similar shot but from the left side of the last posted pic.), think i have identified an area ross can improve on, if he hasnt done so already. looks like the spline cutting comes to a point near/where the splines end, i can see somewhat a rad there but if the spline suddenly finnishes at a sharp point then this would definately a stress raiser. im able to do a full FEA analisys of the stubs if Ross would allow the stubs to be CAD/CAM modelled or something similar, but of the resultant manufactured item, not the design, as manufacturing is a leg and an arm away from our original design usually. Will need some more details but, engine torque, rear end ratio, 1st gear (or launch gear if you launch i 2nd) rough amount of hard launches etc etc etc. let me know nato