calZ

What size are the brake rotor bolts?

Thank you. I probably wouldn't have finished it without other people being interested in it and spurring me along.

Oh dang, I didn't realize the AZC 8-hole hats bolted to the hubs using a 5-hole pattern. I would think these adapters would work, then, unless the rotor hat is thick enough that you can't get an adapter in there. I'll edit the file later tonight and PM you. Also, I edited the original post, but another note is that before ordering/making, be sure the outer diameter of the adapter will fit inside your brake rotor. I'm not sure of the different dimensions on brake rotors out there. I designed this to use without bolted on rotors, so check for your application.

Ok, here is a PDF of the final drawing along with the actual DXF I sent to the laser cutters to get cut. Along with two of these adapters, you'll need: 1. Two tone rings. They are Dorman 917-557 or equivalent. They are the FRONT ABS tone ring on the 1998-02 Forester, 1994-99 Legacy, and 1994-99 Impreza. Don't buy rear tone rings, since they're different and won't work. These are cast parts that aren't perfect, so you may have to tap the legs with a hammer or tweak them with a crescent wrench to fine-tune the fit. Sometimes the bolt holes aren't perfectly concentric or square with e

I could make them work if you didn't need to attach brake rotors. Finish my slip-on rotor project for me and I'll send you a set of tone ring adapters. They should work fine with your hubs. I haven't checked the spacing with a rotor between the tone ring adapter and the hub, but everything should still clear. I'll do some quick measuring to check, and then post the final measurements I gave to SendCutSend. It was $52.76 for the two adapters in 3/8" aluminum, and then I countersunk the holes myself.

The tone rings are mounted to hubs and on the car, so I think it's pretty much at completion. I guess I don't have the sensors bolted on, but that's trivial. I won't have working traction control until the car is on the road, which will be a while.

A terminated harness for an L-series? They make those now?

Interesting. Personally, I'd want no part of a rubber isolator on my car that has been melted and modified, but that's very creative.

You can replace the stock isolators with camber plates and it will lower your car. I don't know of any way you could modify the stock isolators, though.

That makes no sense, thermodynamically. Massflow is king when it comes to cooling, assuming you don't reach the point it cavitation.

Buddies with CNC mills are the best kind of buddies.

Could also just do some lost PLA casting. That would be perfect for a part like this that doesn't have to be perfect to the thousandth. If you've got the money, though, nothing beats the bling of machined parts.

Yeah, that's not surprising. Even a wheel being out of balance or flat-spotted will make the wheel shake, but you can't really feel it throughout the car. What type of wheels do you have? Is it possible to run without the spacers to see if it fixes the issue?

Can't get front wheel spacers to sit flush? By that do you mean you have spacers between your hubs and wheels and they are not sitting squarely? If so, that's your answer as to why the steering wheel shakes.

Also, that's a 2+2 S30, not a 280ZX/S130. The owner might be right that it's a 1978 and is just confused on 280Z vs 280ZX. Unless it's been engine swapped already, it's definitely not a turbo motor.