calZ

Bearings, hub, cap, washer, nut, tone ring, and plastic version of the adapter. The aluminum adapter would add some weight over the plastic obviously, but less than a wheel spacer. The studs are also the extra long racing studs, and there is an additional stud.

3D printers are the best. You could easily make this by hand with a piece of aluminum bar and a washer rather than something machined, but when you can turn resin into solid with the click of a button it's easier as one piece. I can throw a drawing up for this too if anyone is interested. Only downside is that the T3 uprights have a brace that would interfere with the sensor mount, but I could just tie into the lower dust shield bolt on that side instead.

How did you mount the ring? Turn the hub down?

I don't think they do, but I don't have a haltech or motec in front of me. AFAIK every sensor is independent since they're all different inputs.

Meaning the uprights too? Or do you have the tone ring mounted to the 240Z hub somehow?

Eh, the part is going to be custom and pretty simple anyway. You'd just have to get yours with a 5x3.88" pattern instead of the 5x103mm

2.25mm height ~5mm width ~5mm edge-to-edge spacing

What's all part of the package?

A major driver behind this was to maintain a factory brake bias and make things match front to rear. There are plenty of big brake kits already available with Wilwoods and custom hats. That's not what I was trying to do. The Odyssey rotors in those kits are further away from the upright, so the caliper is mounted completely outboard of the stock ears rather than in-line with them. I might be able to find a different slip on rotor that works in a similar location, but then wheel clearance becomes an issue

Option 2 wouldn't even take any welding, I'm just trying to avoid something that's not easily reversible. The option 1 adapter would be doable, but it would be pretty complex and not cheap to machine. I had thought about making these available to buy or at least give out the drawing, but it's looking like it might be more of a one-off.

Bad news: Q45 caliper won't fit without either cutting and rewelding the mounting ears or making some monstrosity of a caliper adapter to mount them to the front. The sliding design makes an adapter to put them near the original spot a non-starter. Good news: 1990 Z32 NA calipers are made for the exact width of the Explorer rotors and are a fixed design, giving more room for mounting. Bad news: I picked up a Z32 caliper, and the 240z mounting ears don't allow for quite enough room for the Z32 caliper, meaning I can't get it close enough to the center of the rotor. Barring finding a rotor with slightly more diameter or going custom, I'm basically left with 3 options that I'll list in reverse order of practicality: 1. Make a ridiculous caliper adapter that ties into the two stock ears and the top side of the forward ball joint bolt, putting the calipers in a leading position. 2. Trim the tops of the ears off, drill and tap new holes further down, and make a dead simple adapter to put the caliper right where I want it. 3. Give up on my stupid, stupid dreams of a non-permanent modification consisting of OEM wear parts and go back to a proven brake option. Thoughts or ideas? Option 2 would be relatively simple, but I'd have to talk myself into hacking up good parts.

Is this something on my end or the server? Whenever I try to view someone's page, I get a "500 internal server error". Anyone else with this issue?

Rotor fits like a glove and is well within the range of other big brake kits as far as rotor offset change goes. Next step is getting the caliper adapter figured out.

I'd like to have a discussion with the engineer at T3. I got my hubs in, printed up an adjusted adapter, and went to test fit. Turns out despite using the stock 300zx rotor bolt pattern, they decided it made sense to use M12 bolts rather than the stock M10. Had they used M10, proven brake swaps like the S12W calipers and 300zx rotors would work great. I'm sure they had their reasons, but man does it seem short-sighted from my end. Tone ring placement is going to change a tiny bit, since the allen head screws are a bit long and sit proud of the adapter, fouling on the back of the wheel studs. I went thicker on the adapter this time so I could countersink the screws, but if you're using the adapter over the top of 300ZX style rotors the measurement in the drawing I posted before would work great. For the sensor, there should be plenty of room in the space between the strut and forward-most caliper ear, as well as all along the forward edge of the spindle. I'm hoping I can integrate a mount for it into the caliper adapter. If that doesn't work, I'll use the dust shield holes tapped all the way through to bolt it on. Bonus shot of the slip over rotor brake setup I'm working on.

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