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calZ

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Everything posted by calZ

  1. So I ran through your parts list, googling for the exact part when I could and estimating when I had to. Prices in USD Turbo 1800 BC 350 Inj 400 Plugs 25 Intake 1500 FMIC 1200 Pump 100 FPR 150 ECU 1600 Clutch 500 TOTAL 7620 Convert that to AUD and it's $11,283 at current exchange rates. With those parts I would expect an even larger bill, to be honest. $2k-4k for install as well as tuning is a bargain in my opinion.
  2. I'm not near my car right now and don't remember the footwell area well enough to 100% confirm that's the correct spot, but I believe you're correct. The oblong holes in the engine bay are fed by ducts like these: https://www.thezstore.com/product/5706/reproduction-fresh-air-duct-kit-70-73-240z They take air from the round holes on the core support and feed those ducts. Then there would be a round knob at the bottom of the dash to control a flapper on the blocked off round holes in the interior. That mechanism looks like this: https://www.autopartone.com/products/72-73-datsun-240z-oem-climate-control-fresh-air-vent-switch-right I had been planning on doing the same thing, and I think others have run wires that way in the past.
  3. The guy whose harmonic balancer fell off is on this forum. He's been posting about it over in the turbo section.
  4. Ah man that sucks. Just when you almost had it all buttoned up. Hopefully it's something minor and you have it back on the road quickly.
  5. Carb tuning has so many variables it's crazy.
  6. You're replying to threads from 15+ years ago
  7. It looks fantastic. Congrats on getting it out to a show for the first time.
  8. calZ

    1973 Pedal Box

    I found one a while back. Mods please delete so the spammers stop messaging me
  9. That looks awesome. This is just conjecture, but I'd bet that the stock body doesn't have the precision to where 1/8" per side will stand out. I can't imagine it would perfectly slide down and contact the whole rail even if the frame was perfect.
  10. Determined that leaving your full fenders there wouldn't work?
  11. I don't like G-noses and I'm not the biggest wide body fan, but if that paint is decent that's a hell of a deal.
  12. Even Church of L-Series has gone downhill a bit over the last year or so. The same experts are still there, but it used to be mostly people that were in the know, and now it's a lot more like the other groups.
  13. That depends on what you need. Stock replacement or aftermarket stuff? Motorsport Auto (MSA/TheZStore), Z Car Depot, and Z Car Source are all solid sources for stock stuff. KF Vintage JDM is the goto for replacement sheet metal. Skillard offers a lot of stuff if you're looking to replace stock parts with something more simple and a little industrial. Then there's stuff like ProTunerz, Milkfab, Stuff Harry Does, etc
  14. I've run them as close as 1/4" before. I never had an issue, but other wheels may flex more.
  15. So what I'm getting out of this is that I should run a bronze drive gear.
  16. Davey hasn't been on this website in 5 years
  17. On our racecar we ran two pressure gauges - one sensor at the pump outlet and one at the Accusump outlet. Both had switches connected to lights as well. The pump outlet had a yellow light to let us know if there was oil starvation in a corner, and the Accusump light was red, since if that one dropped too low it meant the engine had no pressure left at all. We were very happy with the setup.
  18. Interestingly enough, the post refers to the tool shed, which no longer exists as far as I can tell. Old member coming back to scam maybe?
  19. FYI - this user is very likely a scammer. They joined, made three posts on various topics, and then PMed me in reply to a WTB post with the classic "Have you emailed so-and-so? He's got one to sell. Hit him up at xxxxx."
  20. This site had both terminals and housings http://www.vintageconnections.com/
  21. I have the Hoke kit, which is no longer produced. I have no experience with the Futofab axles. You aren't fixing the outdated design of the axle holding the wheel on, but if the axles are strong enough to not break then it doesn't really matter I guess. The 8.8 kit would be the most future-proofed way of going, but also require swapping out a ton more parts than just the axles. As for ratio, I'm not sure. My short nose is 3.54 which I believe is the same as the stock 350Z ratio. It really depends on what speeds you'll be running at most of the time and what the power band looks like. You might have to change it up based on how the car drives once it's running.
  22. How's the car been? This is still one of my favorite threads.
  23. I'll go one at a time on your questions. T-56 vs CD009 Size: they weigh almost the same, and both will necessitate removing the original mounting ears from the tunnel. Assuming the rear of the engine is in the same place as an L-series, you'll need a shifter relocate for the CD009. I think if you get the F-body version of the T-56, the shifter lines up nicely. That's what TimZ did with his T-56 behind an L. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/126809-t56-behind-an-l-series/ Drivability: I've never driven a car with either of these trans, though I do have a kit waiting to put a CD009 in my car. If you're worried more about twisty roads and the track, I would lean towards the CD. 1st gear in the CD and 6th in the T-56 will likely both be useless in those cases, so you're basically comparing 1-5 of the T-56 and 2-6 of the CD. The CD has closer ratios over that span, but really what you want will be track/road dependent. The gears you use the most and the shifts you make the most would likely inform which one will be preferable. Diffs 5-600hp is a lot. The R200LN has a history of being able to handle that, but keeping it almost definitely means keeping the stock stub axles and drive axles, which are the weak points of the stock setup. You might be fine if you're just on road courses, but at 600hp I'd be a little worried about a stub axle snapping and your wheel departing the car. The R200SN and 8.8 conversions are both strong and easy to do. I'm in the process of putting an R200SN into my car with a swap kit from T3, but if I had to start from scratch, I might lean towards the 8.8 for a track car. The kit is cheaper from https://invincibleextremes.com/ than anything to put in a short nose. The 8.8 is a bit heavier, but the parts availability is so much better for brakes and hubs. It's impossible to get some stuff new for the R200SN setup, and even good used parts can be hard to find, especially if you go with the Q45/Z32TT versions of the diff. Mustang parts can be bought new and will be available for a long, long time.
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