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2.8 turbo or 13b turbo rotary engine?


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Hey Guys,

 

Here the problem, I on the fence on which engine to install in my newly redone and highly modified 1970 240z. Go the route of the turbo 2.8 I/C turbo or a mazda 13b I/C turbo ( which the car is setup to bolt in) The mazda would put out about 270 hp and weights about 150+ less than the 2.8 datsun engine. The 13b would set back farther in the engine compartment and lower in the chassis than the 2.8 which would help in handling and braking and acceleration. I want the car as a refined, great braking and handling car but powerful beast when I needed to be.I know the mazda engines will only get about 100k before needing a rebuild and are little different but what your input on this ?. Also what can of HP are you getting from your 2.8 turbo and how much did you spend on your engine setups?

 

Thanks Zgoo

 

 

 

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ZGOO

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I know where I'd be putting my money. On Nissan. Don't get me wrong, I really like Wankels, and your points about handling and braking are noted. But for durability I'd go 2.8... 270hp can be made with the stock turbo and block I am positive. I'd bet you could get up to 300 without swapping to a larger turbo.

 

 

 

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"THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS"

 

Drax240z

1973 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way!

http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

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ZGOO, Welcome aboard. I love the idea of the 270 hp rotory. With the weight savings your power to weight would be similar to the 300 hp Z engine. If you go the Z route, of course there will be much more info and parts availibe to speed the transplant. Plus you're in good company with members like Drax 240z, who is already well on his way with his killer turbo 6 shooter. The mazda would be pretty unique, but probably has some interesting hurdles to overcome. Sounds like you have to decide betwen unique and the tried and true. Keep us updated.

JS

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Interesting dilemna. The setback gives the rotary an advantage and the weight is worth about 15-20hp with better handling and braking. In stock form the rotary has more HP potential. The L28T can match it but you have to spend a lot of $$$ because Nissan choked the engine badly with the stock components. I was able to squeeze about 280hp (at the wheels) from the L28T with the stock turbo but I had to use an SDS programmable system, custom DP, 3" exhaust and bigger TB.

 

If you bolt up a 3" exhaust to the rotary, the L28T will need all the above plus a larger turbo to match it. Now, there is something to be said for staying Nissan, but I will be the last one to argue that point biggrin.gif

 

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Scottie

71 240GN-Z

http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

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Guest Anonymous

I was also thinking about this swap, in addition to the Supra swap I asked about a while back. One of the main things I had against it was the " Rotary Burn-out Factor." Also, I don't know what it would take to get one of those into my 82' ZX. I think the Supra engine would be better for me than a Rotary, though. But if you don't mind a rebuild every few years, I'd go with the rotary. That's a lotta power for those few years.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest Anonymous

If the car is setup to bolt in a 13B Turbo(as you said), I think that would be the best option since it would be more straight forward than putting the 2.8 engine in. With a highly modified car, you probably won't be doing a huge number of miles anyway, and Mazda rotaries last at least 100K miles(enough for 5+ years easily as a daily driver).

 

If you modify the engine to match your car(i.e. make it more powerful), when you switch the computer, make sure you get one with a fuel cut-out rev limiter. Otherwise you'll be able to hear the notes being sucked from your wallet next time you go over 10000RPM wheel-spinning in 1st(you shouldn't go over 8000RPM).

 

I think over-revving is the main reason some rotaries seem to have a short lifespan, the driver is enjoying 'sideways' a little too much, and a second later his engine is going a couple thousand RPM over redline, and that's bad news for any engine.

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Long time ago I had a 85 RX7. That was a great car. Very smooth. I concur on the wind up, blow up, "rotaries are unreliable" equation.

 

My car had a buzzer at redline. It was a key piece of hardware because unless you were actually looking at the tach, it was hard to know you were at (or over) redline. Very smooth powerband.

 

I got terrible gas mileage in that car - the 4 barrel's butterflies were always open. Lots of fun though.

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Very tough question. The only way I would go

with the 13B is if my car was already set up

for it. How much did it cost to set it up

this way and how much will it cost to return

it to the L6 style?

 

I would be concerned about torque as well,

unless you have well balanced turbos. I would

suggest learning how to rebuild rotary engines yourself too, that way you can change

those apex seals every other week...j/k.

 

I was pondering a 20B years ago since my

friend's dad owns Racing Beat, but a V8

turbo (or two) has become the ultimate goal.

 

Good luck,

Owen

 

 

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http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

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