240z72 Posted October 3, 2012 Author Share Posted October 3, 2012 Update: Today I finished fabbing up my fuel pump bracket. It went smooth and came out great. I used 2 lengths of 1/4" strap and a short pice of 90* steel. Then I decided to start pluming the lines to the fuel pump. Boy it was the perfect fit. Not one more fitting could be used haha. I added a fuel shut off valve. Nothing special. Just picked it up at the hardware store. Just make shur it is safe for use with fuel. Tomorrow I plan on installing the C5 fuel filter right next to fuel pump. Will need to fab up another bracket maby. I dont know. Ill figure it out once i get under there again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 I'd put it on the same bracket, just directly above the pump. Looks like you're getting it done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240z72 Posted October 3, 2012 Author Share Posted October 3, 2012 Ya im thinking it will fit perfect just above the pump a bit to the passenger side. I dont think it will fit directly above the pump. I want to be able to get to it without it being a big deal. Thanks Sunny its getting there! Day by day. I try and do something everyday. I hope to be mostly done before the rain hits. Im now working 12hr shifts so time is short but money will be more abundant. Can finally get my companion flanges! $$$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 ... Can finally get my companion flanges! $$$ I should just abort everything that I have and sell you mine haha. I have a bad feeling the days of the billet stub axles may be numbered... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 Dont get discouraged, SUNNY, chin up! Jim, looks good. The fuel shutoff was a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240z72 Posted October 4, 2012 Author Share Posted October 4, 2012 Another step made in the quest for the LSZ. I fabbed up a bracket to locate the C5 filter/regulator right next to the pump. It went really good. I was even able to reuse a line that I made for my old setup as the return. Hosestly couldent of asked for it to come out better. My next step will be to start running the feed threw the floor and down the passenger side trans tunnel on the inside of the car. Sunny: I would honestly be interested if they would work for me AND if you were just gonna upgrade not quit! I have the standard 4 bolt cv's with the 27? spline 280z axles. Keith: Thank you! Ya ive heard you and sunny talk about it so I went ahead and did it befor I put fuel in. Seemed smart to me. More to come! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240z72 Posted October 7, 2012 Author Share Posted October 7, 2012 Ok update! I havent got a whole lot done recently. But I did a few things. I ordered a remote bleeder from Summit and it was the wrong one. Wrong threads for the HTOB. So off that goes to the retun department. I also ordered a throttel cabel. I installed it with littel modification. All I had to do was drill out the old pin and round the tip a bit to let the thing swivel. i just use some flat washers and reused the old hole for the throttel shaft. Sorry no pics of it yet. I then finished routing my fuel line threw the cab and out the fire wall. Was easy to do. Just used so p-clams and drilled a few holes threw the back end in the storage compartment. I also recived my fuel rails and valve covers from a fellow member on here. I installed them and I think they look great. Well I cant wait for my harness to be here!! I think im going to start teating into my front suspention and redoing the bushing and struts. Along with installing the coil overs. So I do have some work to do yet. But im itching to drop the motor in...Ill update as I get it dont. Thnaks for reading! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 Looks great! Don't forget to constantly keep your exhaust routing in mind. I put my fuel pump in a location that is gonna force me to do single exit exhaust. Also, always keep in mind that on jack stands your suspension is drooped giving you extra room around the axles. You won't have as much room when car is down or lowered. Do a trial fit of your headers outside the car. There was an extra part on my driver side head that had to be sawn off and I didn't know about it until late I the game. Had to pull motor again just for that 10 minute job. I have had constant trouble keeping the Sanderson header flanges tight. I'm gonna buy another un-ceramics set, modify them for v-bands then have them ceramic'd. The headers are tough to deal with laying on your back. Your fuel line is way simpler than mine. Like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240z72 Posted October 7, 2012 Author Share Posted October 7, 2012 Thanks Keith. I tried to imagin exhaust routing. Thats one reason i dident want to mount on the sides of the tank. Ill have to look at it again but i bleive im good to go for the exhaust. As far as the suspention I should be in the clear. I tucked up up basically as far up and out of the way as possible knowing that I will have that axle runnen threw there. I really need some companion flanges asap so i can basically button up my rear half of the car. And on the headders I have to really go over them still to make shur for clearence. I just did a quick mock up but nothing serious yet. Still waiting on my harness befor I can go in with the motor and tranny again. I had a question Keith. What type of gaskts do you use for the headders? I dont think mine came with any gaskets. Im thankful for all the tips you guys are giving. I t really help to have a secong opinion. More to come! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 The Sanderson headers use a bead of RTV before bolting to the head for the final time. There is a high temp RTV with copper in it, but I just used regular RTV. Kind of weird but I have no leaks after like six months. I used aluminum gaskets for the collector end. I had the collector bolts spot welded to the flange first because it is hard to get a wrench up top while tightening from the bottom. Check the torque spec on the header to head bolts. It is a really low torque. I have tried to retorque mine a couple times but they haven't loosened any. The collector side loosens up constantly. Retorquing that end is on my pre-race checklist. I use anti-seize on everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240z72 Posted October 8, 2012 Author Share Posted October 8, 2012 Ok thanks for looking out! I always use the copper rtv on everything I need to use rtv on. What surface did you put it on? On the headder, or the head itself or both? Ya I saw how you did that spot welding of the bolts in one of your threads and I was gonna steal that idea haha. Gonna def. get some nice grade 8 bolts on there. Are you using hex nuts and lock washeres? Or nylon lock nuts? I think with the heat nylon lock nuts wouldent work. Yes anti-seize is a must. I use it on basically everything unless it says not to haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 I just did on the header side and tried to be careful putting them on. Using hex nuts and lock washers. They are stainless. I wonder if that could be the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240z72 Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Keith: Ok thanks for the tip. I dont see why that would be an issue. Most exhaust bolts ive delt with are setup that way but Ive see a different style bolt used where the thread are cut different. I forgot the name of them but they fight you all the way off. Like constant tention bolts? I dont know what they are called. Just a thought, I dont know if it would be possible but could you do a jam nut setup? Update: I played with some spare metal I had laying around and fabbed up some heat shields. Basically to stop most of the heat from melting my harness and boiling my brake fluid. I plan to paint them and layer the inside with heat insulation. Heres a few pics of them just layed on there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240z72 Posted October 11, 2012 Author Share Posted October 11, 2012 I did a lil more on the build today. I removed the heater core hoses and I found the control valve came out in pices. Also I found the main flap foam gaskets in the heater box all messed up and not attached to the flap. So I decided to pull the whole unit. The core looks good and dosent leak when I flushed it out but who knows under pressur. Im gonna have it pressure checked befor I go threw all the hassel of installing the dash. Just to remove it again. I plan on using some thin foam window seal strip to fix the flap gaskets and the other stuff in the heater box. I cleaned it all out ,it was full of leaves and painted the thing. Gonna fix and lube all the linkages to make it smooth again. It hailed here something fierce today. First rain of the year and wow it was a storm. Luckey it stopped after a few hours and is suppose to be clear for the weekend. I hope to get the front end bushings done. If I get my strut in (yes strut..I just need one) I will be able to go back togeather with my coilovers. I WANT MY HARNESS ALREADY HAHAH!! Cant wait to hear this thing run.... Question: I have some 245/75/R16's I want to run on the car. Will I need flairs to do this? Ive read no but just though Id ask. More to come..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 (edited) 245/75/16 seem rather tall ! Edited October 12, 2012 by Daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240z72 Posted October 12, 2012 Author Share Posted October 12, 2012 245/75/16 seem rather tall ! Correct. Sorry typo. They are 245/45/16.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 (edited) I have 245/50/16 in the rear on my 260z its flush, I love it ! Check it out, they're on 16x8 rims. Edited October 12, 2012 by Daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 I don't know if you plan to ceramic your headers, but so far, I haven't needed any heat shields. I do have a vented hood and no belly pan, so I have some air moving thru, and I did insulate all the wiring that runs down the firewall on the passenger side trying to be on the safe side. So far, I haven't melted any wiring, so you may get away without the heat shields. For a while, you'll want to check plugs and retorque the headers, so the shields may get in your way. The only way that tires that big fit on a z is with either flared fenders or a tall ride height. If you lower the car, you are gonna rub fender when you squat the car under all your new-found power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 My dad has the same size on his 260z that's untouched(so far) and his fits nice ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 (edited) 240Z7273 - You're going to love your project once you get it going. Interestingly mine has a '98 motor out of a Z28 Camaro that was factory rated at 305 HP at the flywheel. I kept the motor completely stock but had the PCM reflashed by "ChipsbyAl" to the 2002 parameters and the motor made 325 HP at the rear wheels. My son has a 2002 motor in his '72 and it dyno'd at 354 rwhp but his motor has some mods. Needless to say his 2500 lb stripped 240 is a bit more of a beast than my 3,000 lb 280 with all its creature comforts. Not surprised the JCI mounts went smoothly. A lot of effort went into developing his components and he's had time to refine out any little problems. Most issues folks encounter is because their car has gotten tweaked a bit over the years and isn't exactly at OEM dimensions. Edited October 14, 2012 by Phantom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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