SUNNY Z Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 It is the cobra 3.55 gears with the carbon clutch posi. I don't have any pics of that at the moment. I'm pretty sure I moved my diff up about 2". My diff is about 1/4" from the deck floor. My car is pretty low though, so at ride height, my A arms are basically parallel to the ground. I believe the axles will be at a slight up angle to the diff at droop, and should be almost flat at ride height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01vincer6 Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Do post pics as soon as you get them of this shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01vincer6 Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 (edited) Here is what my axle looked like at 3/4 from the floor and the top of the tire just starting to tuck. Was scary looking for a launch being at a 20º+.. Im hoping this new correction makes it more level at ride height. Edited February 25, 2013 by 01vincer6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrighttool Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Here is what my axle looked like at 3/4 from the floor and the top of the tire just starting to tuck. Was scary looking for a launch being at a 20º+.. Im hoping this new correction makes it more level at ride height. Did you make that setup yourself ? looks good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01vincer6 Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Ya its all in my build thread.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 16, 2013 Author Share Posted March 16, 2013 Well, the driveshaft shop was forced to move buildings do to eminent domain, so they won't be starting my stuff until monday. I installed ARP studs on the rear hubs tonight. Used F body camaro studs, as they're suuuuper close to the right diameter, and much cheaper. I'll post pics of the finished product. Should be able to get most of the brakes assembled tomorrow if we can drill the rotors for 4 lug. Depends on a buddy's schedule. One step closer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01vincer6 Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 What part number on the studs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 http://www.summitrac...-7708/overview/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share Posted March 19, 2013 Backing plates. Drilled out the spot welds for the dust shields, sand blasted, and painted them. Wheel bearings / Hubs. New ARP studs Re-drilled rotors. Mock up of calipers. Going to order lines tonight hopefully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01vincer6 Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 Looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share Posted March 23, 2013 (edited) Today I learned: The Z32 e-brake assemblies have to be swapped side to side. This includes backing plates. I'm not sure which hub i used on which side, but i would imagine that they are also reversed from where they originally were intended. I bought all the e-brake cables, so those should be here early in the week. Driveshaft and axles the same. EDIT= Adding info from last post. Just wanted to give some insight on how to re-drill for 4 lug (going backwards as some have put it) Knock all the studs out of your hub except one. Pick one of the 5 lug holes, and place the stud through that hole (backwards. picture putting the rotor on the hub inside out, or with the outer surface of the hat touching the hub). You re-use one hole, and drill 3. Lucky for us, the rotors are hub-centric, so you really can't mess it up. I marked all three with a center punch, and drilled them out. I had to use a rat tail file on a couple holes, but all in all it went pretty smooth! Edited March 24, 2013 by SUNNY Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snailed Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Nice project SunnyZ. This looks like a very rugged upgrade. I agree on the Drive Shaft Shop too. Excellent company to deal with for custom stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 24, 2013 Author Share Posted March 24, 2013 After taking a closer look at the diff, I decided to replace the posi unit. The spider gears were munched up a little bit, and for 220 shipped, I couldn't resist a brand new posi unit. spider gears: Might be something to be aware of if youre inspecting one to buy. already LOVING my DOMESTIC parts. Took me 2 minutes to find exactly what i needed online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 So the rabbit hole keeps going deeper. Checked the backlash on the diff before changing the posi. Its at .022". Spec is .008-.010". SO it looks like i'll be replacing the gear set as well............Not happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfritts911 Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Gears for the 8.8 are pretty cheap though. Think I paid 150 for my 4.10s and the install kits arent bad either. Plus then you know you will have a solid diff, .022 backlash probably wouldn't have lasted to long with some hard launches, and probably whined like crazy. What gear ratio are you going to buy? -Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted April 3, 2013 Author Share Posted April 3, 2013 going back with 3.55's. I paid $139 to my door for the gears. $79 for install kit, and $219 for the posi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 I decided to let one of my local friends set up the rear end for me. I figured $100 is worth me not being frustrated, or screwing it up. The axles are finished, just waiting on the driveshaft (next mon target date) to get done, and i'll have everything! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 While you are getting the gears installed you should also make sure the bearings are in good shape. I had a pro shop set-up my differential and the shop told me that one of the pinion bearings was bad. All above board. More work and more cost but 100% in good shape now as the shop replaced all the bearings. The gear set was in great shape. Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 While you are getting the gears installed you should also make sure the bearings are in good shape. I had a pro shop set-up my differential and the shop told me that one of the pinion bearings was bad. All above board. More work and more cost but 100% in good shape now as the shop replaced all the bearings. The gear set was in great shape. Danno74Z I should have mentioned, but its getting all new gears, bearings, seals, and posi. It will basically be a brand new unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01vincer6 Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 (edited) Awaiting pics of the new axles! Edited April 5, 2013 by 01vincer6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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