280zex Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 ok so I got my fiberglass air dam mounted, I also purchased the optional light kit too. I did have to a small bit of triming around the edege of the lip that fits around the fender, just a quick zip with the dremmel and sanding wheel. I plan on getting the airdam rhino lined this weekend, help protect the fiberglass from rock chips n dings. I will post up some pix and the price I paid for those who decide to go this route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Donovan_ Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zex Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 ok I droped off the air dam to be rhino lined. 160$ with tax. They will sand/prime and spray 2 layers of black polyurethane rhino liner. It "should" be done and installed this sat.... we shal see.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger1316 Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 Could have easily done it yourself... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zex Posted October 27, 2012 Author Share Posted October 27, 2012 Could have easily done it yourself... I have no spray equiptment, and the diy roll-on is not the same stuf. They will be giving me a UV protectant coating over the top of the rhino liner. I have used the diy before, lasts about 3 years, no thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zex Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 (edited) So the Rhino Lining added about 10 lbs of extra weight. I decided to add some extra bracing using some 1/8 x 3/4inch aluminum flat bar. I used the old bolt holes from the original bumper mounts straight to the inner sides of the lower opening of the dam. I also found some conviently placed threaded holes in the bottom of the rad core support. I used those for 2 more anchor points, going directly to the bottom inside lip. This gives me 6 points of secured contact, 2 (per side) under the head light buckets, 2 from the frame/original bumper mount points, and 2 off the bottom of the rad core support. I blocked off the entire lower opening with some aluminum sheeting and ss rivits. I just couldn't get the engine to build water temp with the big opening. I also block off the entire cold side of the radiator with cardboard. A 3 core radiator in the PNW is just over kill, unless you drive a real race car!! Edited October 28, 2012 by 280zex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.