King's Evil Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Hello again guys, I got a 1973 240z with the Lt-1 T-56 swap, and the Z has a lot of work done on her. She is getting near to that point that all her inside isn't stock anymore. I am currently trying to get ideas and opinion on the brakes section on the Z and need to make sure she got enough reliably and stopping power she can have at the moment, since she got a injected 450hp/450tq V8 rocking in her. Right now, she got the Silvermine Motor Stage 4 Brake kit on the front and the rear got the 87' Corvette rearend in the progress being swapped in her. All lines and master cylinder and booster are bone stock. I wanted get a new booster and master cylinder setup just for the ease of mind, and I am sure they may preform better than the used 280zx booster setup. I was looking at getting something with 1 inch bore master cylinder with a 11" Booster from Jegs or Ebay. I heard of stories when people play with the bore size they had problems stopping at higher speed and their pedal goes down to the floor, and had to keep repumping to brake again. I wanted to avoid that much as possible at the track and most of all on the streets. Since the Corvette rear got 11" plain brake rotor with a big single piston calipers and the front got a drilled and vented 11" rotor in the front with 4 piston calipers, would an 1" master cylinder with 11" Booster do good, with out failure? I do plan getting a portion value to set things up "and an hydraulic hand break for some tricks and fun " I am not brake smart and I was hoping the HybridZ guys to help me out with my specific setup. I would appreciate any opinion and help on my brake setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Why not just look up the specs for the booster / master in the car that the brakes came off of?? That would be a GREAT place to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 (edited) Why not just look up the specs for the booster / master in the car that the brakes came off of?? That would be a GREAT place to start. The label are pretty much torn off by age, so I couldn't get the specs. I should had looked all the sticky before I asked these questions. The 280zx booster and master cylinder might be the better option afterall. Rockauto.com sells A1 Cardone 280zx Boosters and A1 Master Cylinder with the 15/16" bore. So does some local autostores. How do you guys feel about the A1 Cardone brand? Edited November 16, 2012 by King's Evil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David GArcia Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 I have'nt had much luck finding a 280zx 79/81 A1 Master Cylinder with the 15/16 bore why not go with the Willwood 1 inch mc? Reason saying is because rock auto no longer has 15/16 in stock that bolt up to the stock booster although they do carry the option if you purchase a rebuilt mc you ship them your old 15/16 mc and they will rebuilt it for you. I thought I had gotten lucky find at the junkyard turns out a couple days after my install my resevoir was completly empty I unbolted it and found brake fluid in my new booster! I ran out of patience so I recently bought the willwood 1 inch MC. It is coming in soon and I've read it's pretty easy to make it fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy455 Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Go with the Silvermine rear kit. It isn't cheap but the stopping power is amazing and you won't have to bias away from your front set-up either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 I would do some math on the balance you will get, pedal effort, etc with your set-up. There are some online calculators or search here for what others have done. You may get lucky just picking something but with your hybrid system its worth some time to estimate where you should be. To do that you need more than just 4 piston and single piston you need the poston diameters, your weight distribution, etc. I found 11.25 front / 11 rear couldnt produce enough rear bias but thats just with my caliper piston sizes, tires, weight distribution, etc so you may be better or worse with your set-up. A proportioning valve can only reduce the rear not add to it. So either pick a known good set-up or engineer a new one, either way will work depending on how you go about it. Brake bias is more an art than science for the average person (vertical CG height being impractical to measure so you have to guess) so steal shamelessly from those who've been successful would be my recommemdation. I actually went against the Tilton engineers recommendation as it didnt line up with my previous experience and am glad I did. Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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