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First post! Before the witch-hunt begins, I've become quite adept with the search function here. I bought a JTR-converted '75 280z with an SBC 350 out of a 1970 Chevrolet Bel Air about two years ago. Searching on this website has helped immensely in getting this thing up-and-running, and fixing the bungles the previous owner made. My Z initially had a TH350 automatic transmission which, while nice in a drag, was not sufficient for highway driving. And I'm not planning on doing any racing. So it's currently on my garage floor, where it belongs. I've been looking at manual transmission options, and it seems the best route is to look at other cars that had the 5.7L V8...such as Corvettes and Trans-Am's. I'm thinking about getting a flywheel, clutch kit, and T56 transmission from a '93-02 Trans Am. I'd like to hear any advice from folks who went this route. My biggest worry is, given the age of my engine (i.e. it is internally balanced and has the two-piece rear main seal, rather than the one-piece) the newer '93-02 parts won't match up. Any wisdom / advice? Thanks all! Happy motoring!

Welcome gentleman! (+Ladies?) I have had my '76 280Z for a few years now. Ran a bigger turbo L28 for all the time I've had it. I have recently restored the body and paint, I now need the heart and brains to go with this broad of mine. I have just pulled out my L28 and now need to have a few questions answered. Here is my situation: I can attain a full GTO/C5 LS2/T56 from salvage auction. Or I have a few local engine options I can go with. But I can't find a T56 for the life of me (in Canada, just over the pond from Detroit, A.K.A the gutter of Ontario) First question: I have taken the ECU box of out the drivers side and fed the engine harness through and have taken it all of from the engine. The passenger side however - do I take ALL of the harness out? The pass. side routes to the starter, body grounds, this junk fuse panel (for lights?) alternator, lights, turning signals, etc; do you guys take that all out and run a whole brand new harness from the passenger side connections under the glove box? I've heard of the EZwiring kit, is that something to run for the lights/signals with the LS? Secondly: if I were to go with the LS2 from the salvage car is there somebody or a company that revamps the harness for these engines? My goals for this swap are simple. Have a GOOD running engine and car in a whole. I don't need a wireless engine bay, just clean. I don't need over 450hp either. I want the engine and harness set up to be reliable as possible for I am wanting to go on long drives with this and drive it almost daily in good weather. I want everything I need (aside from odds and ends)before I start putting the LS in. I am going with the JCI mounts and drive shaft for what it's worth as well. I have a good amount of money set aside for this whole ordeal, it my 4th engine swap (rb20, SR engines previously) so I know how somethings are done,! but I do not want to cut any corners with this swap. I want things done right and done right the first time. I have also been looking at a million threads on this but I can't seem to find a few things I want to now. I already have more questions but I want to see the reply I get with this first. Thank you very much for your time and effort in advance. Cheers.

Hello again guys, I got a 1973 240z with the Lt-1 T-56 swap, and the Z has a lot of work done on her. She is getting near to that point that all her inside isn't stock anymore. I am currently trying to get ideas and opinion on the brakes section on the Z and need to make sure she got enough reliably and stopping power she can have at the moment, since she got a injected 450hp/450tq V8 rocking in her. Right now, she got the Silvermine Motor Stage 4 Brake kit on the front and the rear got the 87' Corvette rearend in the progress being swapped in her. All lines and master cylinder and booster are bone stock. I wanted get a new booster and master cylinder setup just for the ease of mind, and I am sure they may preform better than the used 280zx booster setup. I was looking at getting something with 1 inch bore master cylinder with a 11" Booster from Jegs or Ebay. I heard of stories when people play with the bore size they had problems stopping at higher speed and their pedal goes down to the floor, and had to keep repumping to brake again. I wanted to avoid that much as possible at the track and most of all on the streets. Since the Corvette rear got 11" plain brake rotor with a big single piston calipers and the front got a drilled and vented 11" rotor in the front with 4 piston calipers, would an 1" master cylinder with 11" Booster do good, with out failure? I do plan getting a portion value to set things up "and an hydraulic hand break for some tricks and fun " I am not brake smart and I was hoping the HybridZ guys to help me out with my specific setup. I would appreciate any opinion and help on my brake setup.