Leon Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Hey Lazeum. Thought I would show you how far I got with my setup after you and Leon convinced me to go with this EDIS setup. After evaluating your sensor bracket I thought I would take it a few steps further. Wanted to make something that was more sturdy and less likely to move/fail. Your Design is already beefy, so I used your Idea as a reference. Instead of using the bolts on the alternator side of the engine, I chose to use the AC compressor threads as mounting points. Here is what the Lead Mechanic/Machinist at Whitehead Performance built for me: phone 179 by git-y-up, on Flickr Tony did a great job using premium stock and hardware. BTW Crank dampener and trigger wheel supplied by Rebello. Looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted October 24, 2013 Author Share Posted October 24, 2013 (edited) It's looking good. I thought about such solution also but I thought it was safer to get a shorter fixture, so I decided to attach it to the front cover (not the alternator ) Since we have no capability to run detailled analysis, it is a test-and-see process. As long as it works, we're fine. Yours in addition looks good & you can keep stock fan! How is it made? one piece, two pieces? have you added some webs to make the flat part of the fixture stiffer or you just left it alone? What about the rest of the project? Is the car running yet? Edited October 24, 2013 by Lazeum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCan Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Leon. Really nice work! I'll be sure to bookmark your picture for future reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Git-y-up Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 (edited) Its a 4 piece design. The L bracket, the sensor mount.... ( a picture is worth a 1000 words) Sensor Mount Close up. by git-y-up, on Flickr As you can see in the picture, it is also supported off the front cover to insure rigidity at high speeds. Here is how I mounted my coils. COP coils from a ford expedition. The A C B groups from the EDIS are run in series. Engine pre-carbs. by git-y-up, on Flickr The engine is currently running. Have balanced the carbs and set the idle to 1000 due to my cam. Used your initial safe timing graft as a benchmark. Have to start the long tuning process now. Since the fuel delivery and timing work hand in hand to create the most efficient/powerful combustion, I am not sure where to begin. I basically have a fresh rebuilt engine with 10.3 Compression, fresh rebuilt mikuni carbs, and EDIS. I have to make all these work together without a real benchmark. Edited October 24, 2013 by Git-y-up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted October 24, 2013 Author Share Posted October 24, 2013 (edited) Your bracket is very though! It will never move which is a very good point. I love also your coil setup, would you mind showing us a pic on the other side to see it better, please? I see your master cylinder which is yellowish. Look for "retrobright" on google if you'd like to solve that Edited October 24, 2013 by Lazeum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Git-y-up Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Here is a picture from that side. The bracket for the coils is made by a member of this forum, forget who lol. 20131109_140908 by git-y-up, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Git-y-up Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Wondering if you stayed with the original tachometer with your setup Lazeum? I am having trouble getting mine to respond to the signal from the coils. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted November 12, 2013 Author Share Posted November 12, 2013 It looks good! Regarding tachometer, I've plugged 12V signal from the coil pack on the black/yellow wire that goes to the tach. I've soldered the wire that goes to the coils next to the plugs below the glovebox, inside the cabin. It works flawlessly on mine. I've compared tacho and rpm on my PC, it is similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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