Rear droop limiters

[RebekahsZ]

Finished rear suspenson droop limiters.  I'm not actually thinking about how these will effect handling-I built them so the coilover spring will stop cocking on its top perch everytime I lower the car off a jack.  This week I'll be working on droom limiter bracketry for the front.  In this picture, you will see that I just made a 3/16" thick bracket that a buddy welded to the mustache bar-that is where the top end of the strap will bolt.  The lower end of the strap will go behine the spindle pin nut on the LCA.  In the completed photo, imagine the pencil replaced by a nylon strap.

[JMortensen]

Going off the mustache bar is a good idea. Lot straighter shot than what I did.

[RebekahsZ]

I studied your approach. We know yours works-jury is still out on mine.

[CarJway]

If you were only looking to fix that dreaded bind when lowering the car, a helper/take up spring may have been another option.

Helper Springs = http://pitstopusa.com/c-133004-springs-coil-spring-accessories-take-up-springs.html

Spring Spacer = http://pitstopusa.com/c-133219-springs-coil-spring-accessories-spring-floaters-spacers.html

[tube80z]

I studied your approach. We know yours works-jury is still out on mine.

 

It should work fine and I like it.  Another option you might consider is to link both sides with cable and use some rollers to allow the cable to move back and forth.  What this does is allow you to droop limit when you lift the end up but not constrain roll.  And then you can start doing tricky things like keeping the amount of lift limited when you hit the brakes or drop the throttle but still have full travel for roll.  If you're playing with underbody aero or a diffuser that might be useful.  Or if you hillclimb and deal with a lot of road crown this can help to better put the power down.

 

And you can also use the helper springs.  Cool idea though. 

 

Cary

[RebekahsZ]

Rear droop limiters-done.  Front droop limiters-flopped, but have next design in my head.  Droop limit straps come from Polyperformance.com.  Currently I have the straps adjusted in the center of the adjustment range and the spring is tight against the upper seat.  I plan to raise the ride height an inch using the coilover adjustable perch before I set the car back down.  I have about 3" of droop with the straps installed.

Edited February 5, 2013 by RebekahsZ

[ComicArtist]

Or you could just run coilovers that have independent height and preload adjustment.... that would solve the droop problems and ride a lot better than rolling around slammed on completely compressed shocks.

[JMortensen]

 

Or you could just run coilovers that have independent height and preload adjustment.... that would solve the droop problems and ride a lot better than rolling around slammed on completely compressed shocks.

You need more than just shocks that screw into the strut housing; you have to have the correct amount of travel too. If you have a 6" travel strut and you lower it down to where you want the droop to be, you'll smack the car on the ground before you hit the bumpstop (at least my car would). The real answer here is to have the correct length shock made, but that's a very expensive option. Droop limiters might run you $50 in parts, and then you can keep the bumpstops at the right height and you can eliminate the extra 4" of droop on a really low Z.