Modifying JTR headers for V-bands

[RebekahsZ]

Have had trouble keeping my JTR header flanges torqued up and I find it really hard to get a wrench on the bolts when I'm under the car with every 3/8" drive extension known to man, to include a crow's foot and a u-joint.  The repeated loosening could be just due to my sorry temporary exhaust system vibrating around, which really has no support other than the headers.  But, I want these headers to seal and be trouble free when I finish my exhaust system, so I'm giving V-bands a try.

 

I started with a set of raw steel JTR Sanderson headers, which I'll send off for ceramic when I'm finished mod-ing.  Yes, my perfect ceramic-coated JTR headers will be available for sale soon.  Today I only got so far as to cut off the original flanged with my new Milwaukee portaband saw.  I'll be installing these headers tonight then I'm waiting for my 2.5" mild steel v-bands, a mandrel bent 3" X 180 section and a pair of 3"-2.5" reducer.  The v-bands will go on the 2.5" section in order to take up less space than the 3" flanges the headers originally have.  Hoping to eliminate that goofy angle that the header flange sets at as well (that's what the 3" X 180 section is for).  More to follow as I make progress.  

Edited February 2, 2013 by RebekahsZ

[SUNNY Z]

you won't regret this.

[Old Man]

Hello,

Will be in the market for some headers soon.  If possible, can you send me out a notification when you are selling yours?  Thank you for your time.

[RebekahsZ]

Sure will.  It will probably be in April.  The tubing came in today for me to mock-up the new headers, then to build the rest of the exhaust and get it coated-I'm making a LITTLE progress each week.  I will wait until all that is done before being ready to sell them (I want to keep the flexibility of throwing the temporary system back together if a fun chance to race presents itself).  I also have my temporary side-outlet exhaust with O2 sensor bungs that I can pass along to somebody.  They are handy to install before that first start-up and for the first few weeks after getting the build put together.  A lot more quiet system than just dumping all the noise into the firewall.

 

Could be available sooner if I run out of money.....

Edited February 9, 2013 by RebekahsZ

[gt40rick]

Great Idea... I hate the flange bolts... I am going to do this as well sometime this year.

[RebekahsZ]

Thought I had posted finished product photos. Will look for them and post. May have already deleted them. My tuner asked me to have another accessible O2 sensor installed. There was no problem at the tuner with the current o2 sensor location.

[EastTnZ]

How far past the flange on the headers are everybody putting the o2 sensors?  I haven't layed my harness on my engine yet but is it better closer to the flange or as far as your harness will reach or just a happy medium and it doesn't matter at all?

[RebekahsZ]

I asked this question earlier this year. Johnc suggested close because the sensor reads best when it is hot. Others said to place it far enough back so that the exhaust from each cylinder can "average" for the bank. I put mine where it was practical - right in the collector on the JTR header. It tuned fine and is working fine. Next exhaust mod for me is an extra port on each headpipe for the tuner to use without disconnecting one of mine. The wiring is longer on the sensor for the rear sensors so if you end up too short, get the rear ones. Otherwise the sensors are the same.

[Zfan1]

My shorties drove me nuts so I ditched them. They never held and I snapped bolts all the time, the heat just ate the bolts up.