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Just when you think your doing well, your motor pisses oil o


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DAMMIT.... somethings leaking and making a BIG mess in my engine compartment. It appears to be either, oil pump (unlikely imo), or front cover. God i dont want to take this thing apart again to replace the front cover gaskets. Jeez, i used gasket sealer and toruque wrenches and still she leaks. that sucks.

 

Besides that, i seem to have some blowby under accelleration. Is this normal? function of rings seating?

 

I also got my rotor phasing right, and the engine purrs like a kitty cat.

 

icon_smile.gif - Evan

 

PS.. I guess if i suck it up and redo the front cover gasket its not the worst thing that could happen eh? (I have the gaskets) icon_eek.gif

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Sorry to hear about that - the front cover isn't that bad - it's just alot of crap that you have to remove to get to it. I'd try to make sure I knew exactly what was leaking before I started that job, though. Front main seal, maybe (the one that seals to the crank dampner)?

 

Some blowby is to be expected with a turbo - are you seeing alot of oil in the intake?

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Evan Blowby as in like a lot of smoke? Is it White, Blue-Gray, charcoal Black. Which color? Also Oil making a mess do you se it leaking somewere why it idles?

 

Later Bro let me know.. Also the Engine is in the Bay... icon_smile.gif

Still got a lot of work but atleast she is bolted in and tranny hooked up. Well Got to run off to SWAT... Later

Ron

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Dudes, i think i found my problemo here. How much oil does a zxt motor take? I think it may be overfull. I checked the dipstick, and think thats the problem now that im looking at it. It is definitely overfull, can this cause damage? Let me know asap, im driving this thing to work tomorrow, then to get exhaust put on.

 

I guess, i dont mean blowby, its coming out of the crankcase ventalation hoses. I dont have any of them hooked up to the intake (yet). This may be normal for all i know, i never ran without them before. There is NO smoke whatsover in the exhaust.

 

Thanks gents- evan

 

PS.. i was running with just the cast DP elbow on it temporarily. That exhaust was literally FRYING my steering coupler, i whipped up a quick heat shield for temporary steup. Just something to beweare of for the new dudes icon_smile.gificon_biggrin.gificon_biggrin.gif

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Evan you can cause very serious damage with an overfull engine. If its way too overful, you have to worry about the pistons trying to compress the oil - likely you aren't that full, and that is good. You'd know if it was.

 

If its full enough that the crank counterweights hit the oil every time around you are going to end up with some serious foam in your crankcase, which is definately bad. The oil will lose its viscosity quite quickly when aerated like that.

 

Thanks a ton for the heads up on the steering coupler, I just put a new one in and I don't really want to fry it!

 

Glad to hear its idling well.

Hopefully mine will be doing the same this weekend.

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Turbo motor? Engine crankcase overfull?! Um, how about maybe the turbo can't drain properly as RPMs come up and it's backing up in the line and getting past the seals? Drain some oil!! I'd worry about th eoil level first, smoke later. I won't be surprised if the smoke goes away with the oil level being lowered... icon_rolleyes.gif I hope so!

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Okay, i dumped out some oil to get it down to the happy level. I have no idea wether its still leaking or not, its 12am and my exuahst guy finished my car at 1130...

 

However, IF it still leaks its definitly the seal behind the front pulley. Easy fix icon_smile.gif

 

Thanks for letting me vent guys!- Evan

 

PS... anyone else think that 3" exhaust is pretty droney? icon_rolleyes.gif

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quote:

Originally posted by Evan Purple240zt:

I guess, i dont mean blowby, its coming out of the crankcase ventalation hoses. I dont have any of them hooked up to the intake (yet). This may be normal for all i know, i never ran without them before. There is NO smoke whatsover in the exhaust.

 

 

No you had the right idea on blowby. Blowby can cause oil to come out of the crankcase vent hoses. That was why I asked if you were seeing oil in the intake - if your pcv stuff was hooked up, that's where that oil would have gone.

 

I mentioned that some blowby is to be expected on a turbo motor, however, you do want to keep the resulting oil out of the intake/intercooler. I fashoined oil traps that drain back to the oil pan for mine. This still allows proper crankcase ventilation, without blowing oil into the intake.

 

Here's a picture...

 

engine1.jpg

 

It's the y-shaped thing on the side of the intake manifold...

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Hey TimZ (sorry to barge in on your post, Evan) what exactly is that "oil trap"? Is that what it is called, or did you just discover that's what it did and it's meant for another purpose? Where do you get such a thing - I am needing to get something like that for my breather, as I still have a PCV and a stock computer thing going. Thanks,

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quote:

Originally posted by SleeperZ:

Hey TimZ (sorry to barge in on your post, Evan) what exactly is that "oil trap"? Is that what it is called, or did you just discover that's what it did and it's meant for another purpose? Where do you get such a thing - I am needing to get something like that for my breather, as I still have a PCV and a stock computer thing going. Thanks,

 

Well, that's what I call it... icon_smile.gif

 

It's actually a bunch of general purpose fittings that I put together for the purpose of seperating the oil from the air, and draining the oil back to the oil pan.

 

The main piece is a Moroso Y-block fuel line adapter. On the inlet side (right hand side in the pic), I fitted a restrictor with a screen filter in it. I don't remember exactly what this thing was originally for, but I found it at Home Depot - it was either in the plumbing fittings, or by the air compressor accessories - can't remember. On either side of this are brass fittings to get me back to the appropriate sizes for the -10AN hose and the Y adaptor inlet.

 

On the outlet side, it's just a straight -10AN male fitting. The Y adapter is angled to make the outlet point straight up on purpose.

 

On the bottom of the Y, I used a PCV valve as a check valve to only allow oil to drain out - this way oil from the oil pan cannot make it's way back up while under boost (the pressure at the oil pan is higher than the trap under boost, lower under vacuum).

 

Okay, so here's the theory. Oil is heavier than air. The restrictor at the inlet causes the velocity of the oil/air mist to speed up. Also, the hope is that some of the oil droplets will collect on the screen in the restrictor and make bigger droplets.

 

After passing through the restrictor, the oil mist is forced to make a sharp turn in the Y adapter. Three things work in my favor here.

 

First, since the oil is heavier, it cannot change directions as quickly as the air, and most of it 'crashes' into the side of the Y, and drips to the bottom of the Y, where it gets drained back to the pan.

 

Second, if the oil doesn't crash into the side, it has to fight gravity and go straight up to get out of the trap.

 

Third, since there is no restriction on the outlet (bigger hole), the velocity of the air at the outlet is lower than that of the inlet, which makes it even harder for the oil to beat gravity and escape.

 

Oh - also, you might notice that the hose between the valve cover and the trap does a 90 degree turn and loops upward a bit before going to the trap. Same idea.

 

Make sense? You can't see it very well, but I used this same approach between the crankcase breather and the PCV valve.

 

Before I did this, I would regularly find a puddle of oil at the bottom of my intercooler. Now, it's dry.

 

The most expensive part (aside from the shiny hoses, which aren't mandatory) is the Y adaptor - maybe $25. The rest is a few bucks at the hardware/auto parts store.

 

[ June 30, 2001: Message edited by: TimZ ]

 

[ June 30, 2001: Message edited by: TimZ ]

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  • 1 month later...

Well final cost of parts was about $30canadian. That is using all brass fittings and rubber PCV hose. (and stainless hose clamps) Haven't put it on yet, but shouldn't be a problem. I am simply using a T conneciton where Tim has used the Y connection. It might not quite be as effective, but I am sure this system will function better than the stock one.

 

On a side note, I can't find a PCV valve that doesn't leak either. Seems my old used stock one is as good as all the replacements I could find. One more possibility showing up tomorrow, but I expect that will leak as well.... Is it so damn difficult to build a check valve? Sheesh. I think I might try to find an industrial check valve that will do the job.

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DRAX,

 

after experiencing 1st-hand what pressurizing the oil pan can do, I ended going with the Check Valve from ATR. It is part# CV101 and is $19.95 and although I did not ask them, I wonder if I will ever have to change it. It is a direct replacement for the PCV but I cannot guarantee the od of the valve is the same so you might have to find a different grommet.

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