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rb-26Z goes 11.134


stony

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Guest Anonymous

Hey Clint,

 

The manual is complete copy of the Nissan with all the spec's, let me know. The turbine wheels are the ones that are ceramic and the comp.wheels are metal. Thanks for the heads up on the price of the turbo's. Would you know of any one who could help to get some good turbo's that you spoke of? About the SDS, I was leaning ( sorry there's that bad word again) icon_biggrin.gif toward the TECII so to have the option of setups for street and track. Let me know about the dual knock sensors and how it would work with the SDS. Just a thought, I think you could pick up some more power if you added a cold air intake to the turbo's instead of the preheated air in the engine bay.

I bought the set up from the guy on Ebay. Because some of the parts got damaged in the wreck, I paid him $1900 US for everything. The front crank damper had a crack in the front of the hub so I decided to take the engine apart and do a complete inspection and overhaul. Crank and block were fine so now I will decided if to upgrade or just rings and bearings for now. Any thoughts? I need a new crank damper would you have a lead on one? My engine had the same mileage. I also have all the stock engine wiring and ecu that I could use, but...who knows.

 

Dan

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Dan,

 

i agree on the cold air intake. working on geting one made.

ill contact my guy in japan and see if he dosnt mind getting parts for you.

 

i would stay away from the stock ecu for sure especially if your gonna mod it... not to sure many would be able to write a chip for it in the states. I went with sds because it was cheap and i was familiar with it .. a frind used it in a car in japan and seemed really easy to tune,

 

i worked out some of teh problems i posted earlier. the one drawback to sds is you really should have 2 people in teh car when tuning hard to watch the led panel to see where you need work . i leaned out some of teh low vacuum areas and it seemed to work well ... i could get it up to a steady 6000rpm with no coughs when i dumped it. mu next thing is to get my damn o2 sensor installed so i can really tune fuel mixture. I really need to get rid of these fumes.

anyways ill stop ramblin

 

laterz

stony

 

hey if you get sds we could compare setups ;>

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I have been a Skyline fan for probably 4 years now and have read every article I could get my paws on. The stock ECU is not all that bad, in fact it offers many advantages over the SDS. No I am not bashing SDS !! The stock ECU has a great deal of control over the cam timing, very fine control with dual AFM's. Plus a zillion other setting most people don't even know about. However it is not tuneable which is the major disadvantage. There is a work around by APEXI which actually allows you to modify stock settings and keep the driveability of a stock ECU. Something to consider??

 

One of the best resourses for the RB26 is www.autospeed.com There are many guys on the board with R-33 and R34's and can give you lots of info.

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clint

 

I used to hang with a couple of guys in japan that tuned computers. when i showed him all teh points in the rpm that you could set fuel for booste pressure, timing, ect ect ... they said it had alot more tuning points then any stock computer. if your gonna use the rb25 or 26 bone stock then teh stock computer is ok . you can also get it tuned for bigger injectors. but in teh states it would have to be on a chassis dyno to do it and with the price of writing a chip on top of dyno time im pretty sure the stock computer is not the way to go... especially if your gonna make mods over time... everytime you mad something its back to the dyno to set everything up again!!!! 2 ro 3 times to teh dyno and sds payed for itself ;>

 

laterz

stony

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Ok here we go ... got the line lock hooked up and the no load throttle thing fixed i can rev to 6000 no problem. im gonna try for 10s on the 8th of july. hopefuly i dont break anything ;>

 

scotty have you ever broke anything if so what? I was thinking the axles will be the first to go especially on a hard launch. my clutch is relatively stock (GTR) and i dont think its strong enough to hold and break something but we'll see. Im gonna trailer myself up to the track with a friend this time ;>

 

laterz

stony

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Hey stony - can you take any pictures of the motor mounts for your engine? I know you used an RB25 for basic fitting and stuff, are the motor mounts the same for the two motors? I am considering an RB25DET swap into my car and need to know what kind of fabrication will be necessary, as far as motor mounts go. I'd really appreciate it.

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Nion

 

i used teh stock l engine rubber mounts and the rb-20 mounts from a z-31 japan spec.... if you have any friends in japan or can get a hold of anyone thats what you need.

to be perfect you will need to custom fab a set... my motor sits alittle more fwd then i liked but about teh same as teh L motor. with teh stock mounts you have about 3 inches between teh firwall and engine. i dont have any pics of teh mounts but if i get it on a lift anytime soon ill take some

 

laterz

stony

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Dan

 

If you could look in your manual and tell me if they have info on how the rb-26 idle circuit works or if it even has this info that would be cool. mine wont idle below 1500 right now because i have sds....was wondering if there is a way to trick the engine so it idles down then use sds fast idle option for warm up. thanks

 

clint

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Guest Anonymous

Hey Clint,

 

The manual show that located under the center of the intake is a small air box that has allot of vac lines connected to it. On the side of the box is a AAC valve with two connectors that go to the stock computer. The stock computer will regulate the air going into the engine to maintain idle. The engine should idle at 900 rpm with the valve unhooked ( like yours is now) On the the AAC valve is a adjusting screw and with it turned all the way in, this should give you the lowest idle possible. Hope this helps!

 

Dan icon_wink.gif

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hey dan you are the poop!!! I cant believe ive been driving with it at 1500 for 5 months and that was all it was was that damn little screw!!!! i was told there was no way to get it to idle down by the guys in japan without having the stock computer hooked up .

 

hey I have access to a good copier would you be willing to send me your copy so i sould copy it. ill pay shipping and all that... if not ill totally understand

 

thanks again

stony

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Guest Anonymous

Hey Stony, your car is AWESOME man. I want to put a RB25DET in my 240Z.Sounds like the go is to use a GTR type inlet eh! What other problems am I likely to encounter eg. does the sump/crossmember need modifing/changing etc. By the sound of it, this is popular transplant in japen. Does anyone know of any good sites on this subject,

 

GO HARD!!!! icon_cool.gif

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im using a 3.90 rear end but the tranny was out of a car with a 4.75 . id like to swap to a 4.11.

 

the rb swap is a bolt in job if you have all the right stuff. the oil pan from the z-31 rb-20 bolts right up to the rb-25. the 2.6 can use the same oil pan but req some cutting and welding to work. any rb motor will bolt in with the z-31 rb-20 motor mounts.

 

stony.

 

im looking for 550cc or bigger injectors anyone have any ?

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oh yea if you didnt realize it the rb-26 intake will not bolt up to the rb-25 the 2 heads are interchangable on the block with some mods but non of the head parts are interchangable specifically turbos and intake manifold. different bolt patterns

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Guest Anonymous

Cheers stony, you're da man

I should'nt have a prob soucing bits as there is "truckloads" of skyline jap import bits around N.Z.-thanks again icon_biggrin.gif

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Guest Anonymous

wicked car man! very awesome! what are you using for gears in the back? never knew RB motors were so accessable! anyway great job & good luck! DAn

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