RebekahsZ Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 (edited) Headers are finished, complete with O2 sensors. I wound up putting them directly into the collectors due to the space limitations dictated by my (planned) electric exhaust cutouts. If you look up inside the collectors, the primaries actually join the collectors higher than it appears when looking externally, so hopefully the sensors will "see" the temperature and mixture (or whatever the heck an O2 sensor does) well enough. From drawings in my GTO service manual, it looks like the original location for the first O2 sensor is 4-6" away from the end of the exhaust manifolds. Sending them to Nitro Plate after the rest of the system is mocked up. I've been advised to go with a real ceramic coat rather than an aluminum/ceramic coating, but I must confess: I'm seduced by the shiney finish. Spend the whole day with the retired welder at his shop. Boy, piecing together an exhaust system is much harder than it looks. We spot welded and test fit, cut welds, test fit again, spot welded, etc all day. The spot welds "pull up" unpredictably and a cut that is right the first time, never seems to be right the second time. We started at the muffler, clamped up that v-band nice and tight and got as far forward as the y-pipe connected and mounted. Took the y-pipe back down to adjust the lay of the 2-legs. It is all just in tack-welds and many of the gaps are wider than I would like, but my pro welder is pretty good at jumping some pretty big gaps without globbing things up. I just don't know how much warpage there will be. Turns out the retired welder isn't 70 as I thought-he's 80. He's been keeping up well, but I make a lot of mistakes to be covered up/fixed. Left car in his shop to return tomorrow morning hoping to get the headers attached to the y-pipe. Edited February 24, 2013 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 (edited) O2 sensors/headers done. Also put a relief dent in the second primary on the driver side-its the only primary that conflicts with my spark plug wires. Have half of the tubes tack welded. Domzs-what are you cutting your sections with? My gaps are much wider than I want. I'm gonna have a fair amount of "drop thru." Doing the best I can, but I can't seem to cut straight worth a darn, and when I grind to fix my bad cutting, I seem to only make alignment worse. Fortunately I have a great welder once the mock up is done. I'm being psycho about the fit to the floorpan/crossmembers. The JCI tranny mount is the limiting factor that is forcing me to let the exhaust hang about an inch below the frame rails. I'm using high-temp silicone grommets to mount the system. These are super sano brackets/grommets. The muffler mounting bolts from Datsun are 8mm, but the grommets I'm using are made for 3/8" bolts. A sleeve made of 3/8" fuel line are perfect for taking slop out of the grommet allowing the use of stock-sized bolts. Edited February 24, 2013 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 Exhaust is done from the y-pipe back. I have head tubes made, but the welding of the main system shortened everything up, so I've got to build about 1/4" of length back into the system somewhere, and perfect some angles. Hoping to get that completed tomorrow night and back to the welder on Friday. That should get my "full" exhaust finished. The tubing for my electric exhaust cutout system is scheduled to arrive Tuesday, then I'll start into that. Pics attached. It has taken a lot of repeated trial fitting, but it has paid off. The system fits tightly in areas of limited clearance to allow the exhaust to remain as tight against the bottom of the car as possible. The y-pipe is just about as low as my oilpan, but no lower. The system hangs about 1" below the floorpans. Removal and installation are a snap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdantonio Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Rebekah, I'd consider ceramic coating the entire exhaust you've welded all the way back including the headers, it will make a big difference in the temperature released from the exhaust all the way back. I'll share who I use and disclose I have no financial interest of any kind in this firm. http://www.calicocoatings.com/. They do alot of work for NASCAR teams especially exhaust. I've used kool chrome on my headers and the entire exhaust. Prevents rust and looks phenomenal (ill get pics this weekend) on my zcar. And, I've used flat black ceramic on my Camaro z28. They both look outstanding and made a big difference in lowering radiant heat and having it directed out the tail pipe. The kool chrom looks more like polished aluminum but cleans up with brake cleaner. Calico has some good images on their site. I will tell you that I went through two others until I found calico so if you go local make sure you visit the shop and see their work. If the place has alot dust sources and trash everywhere move on, it will end up in your finished product. Good luck and your doing a great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 Oh, I've got SO much money tied up in this already! What would it cost to ship a 10-ft section and have the whole thing coated? I'll grant you, the stainless gets HOT. And you gotta let it sit a bit coming off the tig welder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdantonio Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Oh, I've got SO much money tied up in this already! What would it cost to ship a 10-ft section and have the whole thing coated? I'll grant you, the stainless gets HOT. And you gotta let it sit a bit coming off the tig welder. If you went with calico I'd ship it ups ground. It's not alot to ship or coat in my opinion and the result is worth every penny, at least it's been for me. Call calico, they ship all the time and can probably price it for you...is there no one local that does ceramic coating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdantonio Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 If you went with calico I'd ship it ups ground. It's not alot to ship or coat in my opinion and the result is worth every penny, at least it's been for me. Call calico, they ship all the time and can probably price it for you...is there no one local that does ceramic coating? Another option would be greyhound, a local lamborgini oem parts shop ships with greyhound and swears by it..said its very inexpensive and he ships larger awkward shaped fiberglass body panels... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Stainless won't need coatings to look good. It you do want to coat it due to heat concerns then avoid the chrome looking stuff. Coatings simialr to JetHopt 2000 and Swain White Lightning will help reduce temps around the exhasut. I don't what Calico's equiviant coatings are but you can call and ask. http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdantonio Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 (edited) Stainless won't need coatings to look good. It you do want to coat it due to heat concerns then avoid the chrome looking stuff. Coatings simialr to JetHopt 2000 and Swain White Lightning will help reduce temps around the exhasut. I don't what Calico's equiviant coatings are but you can call and ask. http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/]http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/ [/url] Calico offers cosmetic coatings as well, the kool chrome is not cosmetic its ceramic, provides the radiant heat reduction, and, I put it on stainless steel. The kool chrome finish resembles very closely polished aluminum IMHO.....it's very nice....the flat black calico ceramic coating is used alot on the exhaust on drag cars at the tracks in mooresville (NASCAR country) because its cool to the touch very quickly. All I can say is the calico coating reduced the heat in my Camaro and zcar substantially. I'm sure white lightening would work as well from the information on the site but personally I don't want flat white white headers and exhaust? Can it be colored? Edited February 28, 2013 by Mdantonio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdantonio Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Also, the issue is heat reduction regardless of the underlying material but I agree, I would not ceramic coat or apply any coating to stainless for cosmetic purposes...we were discussing heat reduction only....I believe.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdantonio Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Stainless won't need coatings to look good. It you do want to coat it due to heat concerns then avoid the chrome looking stuff. Coatings simialr to JetHopt 2000 and Swain White Lightning will help reduce temps around the exhasut. I don't what Calico's equiviant coatings are but you can call and ask. http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/ In looking at the sites the thickness of the calico coatings appears consistent with that of white lightening so I'd imagine this would simply be a matter of appearance? http://www.calicocoatings.com/industries/coating-solutions/automotive-racing/ I think we hijacked rebekahs thread a bit....sorry! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 I'm listening and learning. Don't sweat it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Looks like you took the time to tuck it up nice and tight. Very nicely done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 ^ Agreed. Nice job. You've got a career in the muffler business if you get tired of eyes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdantonio Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 I'm listening and learning. Don't sweat it. Okay, I'd be curious to hear if you go with a ceramic if the interior heat reduction is noticeable. I had a kit made for my interior from the fiberglass liner used in NASCAR race cars and also military SCIFs deployed in the Mideast. It's called kool mat and the woman that owns the company is really easy to work with (I have no financial interest in kool mat). You'd have to pull your interior and start with this mat system. It blocks approx 22 decibels and 2000 degree heat. We discussed it in another thread but its incredible stuff. http://www.koolmat.com/. If you notice alot of radiant heat and its uncomfortable in the vehicle you could try a heat shield along the top of the exhaust between the exhaust and the car. The shields can be expensive, however, I watched it being made at kool mat and its nothing more that a fire proof insulation material sandwiched between to pieces of sheet metal with one pice of metal slightly larger than the other to crimp the two closed around the insulation. They roll it so its the shape of a crescent moon then tack it to the top of the exhaust or bottom of the car. That may be a much cheaper alternative to ceramic coatings or kool mat. There's also homemade lizard skin but I haven't tried this: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=511370. Good luck and again great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 What did I tell you about not making it all one piece! I'm buying more v bands right now to split mine in half again. Looks great though. What muffler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Keith, Dan Swain's place is about 15 min from my office if you decide to go the 'white lightnin' route and need a hand... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 Chill-Josey! I've got about 20 pounds of v-bands on this thing. I have a v-band at the muffler and two just forward of the flex sections. I also have two more at the header. There will be a v-band on both sides of the Doug's Headers electric cutouts. The cutouts are marked with a waranty warning against welding on them, but I just took them apart to remove the motor before the welding happens. So much for any warranty. There is a hangar above the diff and a double hanger at the y-pipe to make sure it doesn't slap the tranny crossmember. I'm working on a hangar from each headpipe to the little tabs on the side of the transmission near the bellhousing. I "finish"-ed the driver side tonight; the passenger side needs more tweeking. I think I need one more little pie-cut to get the v-band to the headpipe to get at the right angle. I am disappointed by how much "drip thru" penetration the welds have. I'm gonna try to clean those up as I go when it comes to the cutouts since that is what I'll be using at the track. Honestly, the full exhaust is jus to be legal. Muffler is a 3" Borla XR-1 straight thru oval. Guys, I'm only gonna coat the mild steel header. I'm just coating for corrosion control. I'm not splitting hairs on this thing thinking that my inefficient exhaust system is gonna make me the next national whatever champion. If my right foot gets too hot, I may do the white lightning next winter just on the driver side headpipe. I haven't had carpets in this car for 15 years and as bad as this car leaks-I'm not putting anything on the floors that will hold water and rust the floors out. Thanks for the props JMortensen and johnc, but if you could see all the weld glooped up on the inside of each junction, you'd probably beat me up pretty bad. I'm cleaning up what I can, but I can only reach 10% of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 The final piece seems to be the hardest to get right. I'm taking the last piece on the passenger side y-pipe to an exhaust shop to get expanded to create a slip joint then perhaps I can finish this up. Some pics are included of my mounting system. The high-temp silicone grommets use a 3/8" bolt. But, some of the factory Datsun mount bolts are 8mm (same as 5/16"), so I made a sleeve out of 3/8" metal fuel hose-perfect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 So... how many hours do you have into this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.