drvrswntd Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 I installed an open r200 in my ls1/t56 '73 240Z. Since I was doing it, I rebuilt both halfshafts from the r200 donor, so new u-joints (x4), new boots (x4), and repacked the center bearing sections of each. This was the first time I rebuilt an axle, and the first time I pressed in u-joints. Note also I used cheap Rock-Auto u-joints. Took it to the track, and on my second pass, the driver side halfshaft grenaded. Not sure which order the damage happened: wheel-side u-joint sheared rear cover of halfshaft (cupped section under the rear diff u-joint area) blew out So either I bottomed out the halfshaft, which blew out the back of the shaft and sheared the u-joint, or I sheared the u-joint, and the freely spinning axle got pinned to the car in some area that blew out the back I replaced the halfshaft with one of my old ones from the r180, and drove it home. Drove it for the remainder of last summer on the old halfshaft with no problems, but I also didnt launch it (although some sweeping right turns might compress the rear as much as the launch did - I have no idea, nor do I know if the suspension is stock height or not). I know there are many instances of rear suspension binding after an r200 install, but I had never heard of blown axles. Was it my incompetence in pressing in a u joint that caused this, and I should be fine with an unmolested halfshaft, or should I install custom halfshafts / wolf creek CVs at significant cost? Ultimtely I plan on swapping to an LSD, maybe just a carrier swap, maybe the whole rear end (if I can find a longnose r200 LSD for less than a fortune). Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 I think you just blew a u-joint-they do that. IMHO: There's too many small parts and fasteners in the Wolf Creek kit ($900). Get some Z-31 turbo 4-bolt axles and have the axles shortened and rebuilt by the driveshaft shop. Use JMortensen's measurements from his first group buy for the axle length if you have a 240z with R200. Get companion flanges from Chequered Flag Racing. That "upgrade" will cost you about a$1000 total. Next investment should be for Chequired Flag Racing 39-spline stubs (about $1200 total). Keep launch rpm down around 2500 rpm-below your torque peak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 The common repair here seems to be to go to CV shafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfritts911 Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 I am willing to bet you just sheared the joint and it flailed around and blew the cover out. Dunno what clutch you have but if you have a harsh clutch your odds of breaking axles goes way up. I've sheared a lot lol( 5 now). Slipping the clutch a lot generally keeps them alive, its just the clutch shock that kills them. Buy some spares to take with you and start looking towards some sort of axle swap -Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Rock Auto doesn't make parts, they just resell. Which brand did you buy? Sometimes the good stuff is cheap at Rock Auto. There's a thread or two on this site about which u-joints are stronger, I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drvrswntd Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 I think you just blew a u-joint-they do that. IMHO: There's too many small parts and fasteners in the Wolf Creek kit ($900). Get some Z-31 turbo 4-bolt axles and have the axles shortened and rebuilt by the driveshaft shop. Use JMortensen's measurements from his first group buy for the axle length if you have a 240z with R200. Get companion flanges from Chequered Flag Racing. That "upgrade" will cost you about a$1000 total. Next investment should be for Chequired Flag Racing 39-spline stubs (about $1200 total). Keep launch rpm down around 2500 rpm-below your torque peak. I didnt build it with the intention of being a track queen, and on the stock r180 I ran a 13.3 at 110 in 2011 - spinning first and second. 2012 had a VERY sticky track, I had zero wheelspin for my two launches. In any case, I'll research the Z31 axle setup, thanks. I am willing to bet you just sheared the joint and it flailed around and blew the cover out. Dunno what clutch you have but if you have a harsh clutch your odds of breaking axles goes way up. I've sheared a lot lol( 5 now). Slipping the clutch a lot generally keeps them alive, its just the clutch shock that kills them. Buy some spares to take with you and start looking towards some sort of axle swap -Will Stock clutch to my knowledge, but like I said, zero wheelspin at launch, unlike years prior. Slipping it in 2011 just prolonged my wheelspin, so I guess it really dpends on traction conditions? Rock Auto doesn't make parts, they just resell. Which brand did you buy? Sometimes the good stuff is cheap at Rock Auto. There's a thread or two on this site about which u-joints are stronger, I believe. I know Rock Auto isnt a mfr, I just dont remember wheich ones I bought, other than the cheapest (bad on me). I think I am switching to CV once the T56 rebuild is done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Be careful slipping that clutch under power. Search for my clutch woes and you will see that slipping has consequences. I now just dump the clutch from a reasonable rpm. Slipping the clutch gets things really hot. If rather replace an axle than a clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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