Jesse OBrien Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 I've been putting off buying another s30 for awhile now, since I really didn't want to waste any time half-assing it. I bought an automatic shell with no engine or transmission that's being delivered on the 23rd (this Saturday), and have part of a 350 SBC in my garage ... but I think I just changed my mind on that tonight. I had sourced a 92 TBI SBC and an 88 camaro t5, but there are so many little do-dads that are missing, I'm not sure it's worth installing. I'd still need a water pump, intake manifold (harder than it sounds with these 90's iron heads), carb, distributor, pulleys, flywheel, clutch, throwout bearing, driveshaft, JTR mount kit, slave cylinder, exhaust manifolds, exhaust routing ... the list goes on and on. All told, assembling the engine would cost just over $2k, and that's without rebuilding it at all, and I still end up with heavy iron and a weak non-world-class t5. Let me take a step back though, so we can see the forest through the trees. My guiding goals are as follows: On the road June 1st. It doesn't have to be pretty or reliable, but it needs to be reasonably safe and completely legal in NH. Under $2500 total, after all is said and done. This includes oil, radiator fluid, etc. No more than 15 hours of work per week. I have one undersized single-bay garage to do all the work in, with questionable wiring (I'm not sure if my Due Mig will even run on this, but we'll find out). Since this is an unrealistically aggressive goal, I'm willing to go over budget financially if I absolutely need to, and I can spend a little extra time here and there if absolutely necessary. That should be the exception though, not the rule. A few other things the shell is missing outright: Seats - I may end up going with Kirkey aluminum seats and stitching together some leather covers for them. I've been doing a lot of leatherworking lately, and I think I'm up to that task. It isn't a part of the immediate plan, but the goal for next year is to involve this car in some of the local hillclimb events and racing seats play into that very nicely. Cooling system - I know it has no radiator, but I'm not sure about a heater core. Here in New England, we can survive without Air Conditioning, but not without heat. It's not unheard of for us to have snow in June (it's rare, admittedly), but consider it a necessity. I would prefer to get a grown-up radiator right from the outset, so if anyone has measurements or recommendations on a good radiator that doesn't require too much fabrication to fit, I'd appreciate it. Based on past experience, I've decided that used radiators just aren't worth buying: Those that are cheap are heavy and/or leaky, and those that are expensive cost more than a new one. I'll source an electric fan locally, and just wire it in to a toggle switch on a relay. Manual conversion - I'm not driving an automatic. That's all there is to it. I found a few leads here in the for sale section that I sent PM's to, but if you happen to have all the manual conversion components lying around, send me a price shipped to 03103. I'll get pictures up as soon as it arrives, and you can all weigh in on it. It has some minor rust (California people would say it has bits of metal attached to some rust, but in New England we take what we can get) that I'll have to weld up (or have welded, if my electrical isn't up to the task). The PO has an l24 that was sitting in a snowbank for a long time, and if I can get that to rotate I might build it instead of the Chevy. It's missing the intake manifolds, carbs, exhaust, and looked to be pretty sorry in general. There's a 280zx block listed on Craigslist for $100 that I might just offer $50 on if it's a complete short block and it rotates. I'm assuming I'll be able to find a head, intake, carbs, and exhaust at a decent price on here through someone. There are a few local Z clubs, but I haven't taken the time to join any. Hybridz has always treated me well, and I had been looking for an excuse to come back to you guys. For those of you who enjoy math, here's a link to the budget I had put together for the 350 build: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApJVEjUtUIXQdHBqR0lJQWJXTlJLeUkzQ2NfMkZmUkE#gid=3 I wish I could upload a csv/xlsx/ods/etc file for the sake of posterity, but IPBoard won't allow it. Sorry. Currently, I'm setting aside $250/week for the build, and have 10 weeks to build it (total). That amounts to exactly $2500, including registration/inspection/transport/WD-40/everything. I would love to get some feedback on what you'd suggest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share Posted March 23, 2013 (edited) It begins Now, the build begins. So far, I'm $1142.17 into it, not including the tools I owned before I decided to embark on this project. Budgeting I'm almost halfway through my budget, on day 1. This is a bit of a problem, but that's because I haven't sold the Chevy 350 that I changed gears on. That's a $240 expense that I haven't seen returned yet. I did make a little bit from selling the t5 that came with it (purchased for a GREAT price at $220 plus fuel, sold for the fair price of $300). Hopefully I'll be able to sell that soon, and recoup some of the extra costs to get the budget back on schedule. The chassis also came with a few parts that I think I'll end up selling, since they're likely worth more to others than they are to me. I can't repeat this enough: the goal right now is to get this car on the road. Hoarding 'cool parts' like a high-quality dash won't do me any good if I don't have a running car to put it in. That's how projects end up going on forever, and cars spend years in a garage but never get to drive. The Chassis As it sits, the chassis is half-good. The front half is solid, and has had a lot of attention by its previous owners. The rear is ... less solid. The rear wheel arches are relatively rusty, and I'll need to spend a weekend just fixing the little holes that spot the car's underbelly. That wouldn't really be a problem, but I confirmed that my welder won't run on the (15a?) circuit my rented garage runs on. The bushings are in rough condition, but I have a feeling that they'll pass safety inspection (for the road, not on a race track) so I'm keeping them as-is. The Engine I'm feel a bit like an archaeologist while I pull this little l24 apart. It looked innocent enough when we muscled it off the truck, but things went downhill pretty quickly after I realized that I couldn't turn it over by hand. It had been living in a snowbank for the past couple years, and it showed. Right now it's hanging out upside-down with a bottle of Mystery Oil breaking up the relationship between the rings and cylinder walls. As further evidence that it had been living in a snowbank, I found several large chunks of ice that had formed in the oil pan. While that's a little disconcerting, it appears to be the only water that was in the block. All the major components were still covered in slick dark oil. The e88 head was dirty, but didn't seem to have suffered any serious injuries. Here's how it looked directly after pulling it off the block, I don't have any photos of it cleaned up (stay tuned for more tomorrow!) Assuming this engine can be salvaged (hopefully with nothing more than a cylinder wall hone and new rings/bearings/studs, then a new timing chain set), I'll have to source an intake, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, distributor, alternator, and transmission (I think I have that covered, though), and figure out if a 4spd manual will mate with the automatic driveshaft and crossmember. I spent an hour searching on here and classiczcar, but for some reason I couldn't find a definitive answer to that question. If the l24 can't be rescued, I have a lead on a local (ish) l28 block that I could get and an incomplete l28et that I could take for a grand (which would break my budget single-handedly, but offers much better performance than an l24 assuming both run). Right now, I've blown my $250/week budget out of the water, and am into the project for almost 4x what I should be. I'll put together some for sale listings this week and hopefully recoup some costs so I can get this poor car back on the road! Post some replies, give me some positive feedback, and make any other recommendations you can come up with. I'm eager to take some experienced advice! Edited May 21, 2013 by Jesse OBrien Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share Posted March 23, 2013 Oh right, I forgot. The Members Projects section doesn't allow replies from others, does it? Don't expect any more updates in this section, it seems pointless to use a forum as a blog with the comments section removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78zstyle Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 That block looks awful. I honestly wouldn't bother with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted March 24, 2013 Author Share Posted March 24, 2013 Other members can reply now? So much has changed since I was here last! Here's the update for day 2: Engine I made progress, but you're absolutely right, 78zstyle. I was hoping I could sneak away with a hone and have it sputtering along again but the cylinder walls are pitted, and I'm not sure this engine is worth the investment. The pistons free'd up, but seeing the cylinder walls makes this kind of a wash. I also have a couple other options to work with: One is a complete, running 280z engine with 5spd transmission that I can snag for $750 ... but it's 2:30:00 away and I'd have to talk a friend with a truck into going down with me. My little Yaris is far from a competent parts hauler. The other is a non-assembled n/a l28 block and an e88 head with a 4spd that would be a much better starting point for a rebuild than this is. That would be $240 delivered. Either way, I'd want to get some flat-top SU's to put on it (DCOE carbs are expensive, and power isn't the goal here; running and ease of maintenance is), which are readily available on here for roughly $200/set. All told, I would expect to be into either engine for roughly $1k after all is said and done, and would have a carb'd 2.8liter either way. Thoughts? Opinions? Recommendations? Parts Review As it turns out, the PO left me with a lot of extra parts. l28et turbo efi harness, ecu, MAF, and fuel rail with injectors, a pair of starters, accessories for the l24, and a new-looking fuse panel (that doesn't interest me at all; I've had two of those go up in flames on me). That's also a spare hood that everything is sitting on. It didn't come with seats, but did come with rails! More efi-related junk: A complete interior. There are a few cracks in some of the panels, but these will most likely go up for sale as well, if there's any interest. There are a couple heater blower fans in there as well, but I may just end up making a heat/defrost system out of more modern components. The heat in these things was fine while I was in California, but New England gets cold during the winter. Brakes It looks like I'm missing a brake booster, and haven't been able to find a price on a new one. Has anyone else run non-boosted brakes on their s30, or dual master brakes? I really like the adjustability of dual master setups, and I've never had complaints about the additional effort required (I use my brakes a lot less on the street than on the track, and dual-master setups are ideal for track days ... so I don't see a problem there). My manual conversion parts should be in this week, and I can start to put parts together for that. Overall, I really can't complain about how this car was treated. With all things considered, it's in great shape. I can complain about the brake lines being snipped off. I'm going to have to run all new hard lines for this. What a pain! Does anyone know of a hard line kit, or have any recommendations for fabrication? I've had to re-run single lines for a couple different cars, but nothing to this extent. I'm really looking forward to getting a powertrain in this thing and sputtering around the neighborhood. The budget is exploding quickly, but I'm hoping that I can sell off some parts to recoup those costs. Current cost:budget $1,173.13 of $2500 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted March 27, 2013 Author Share Posted March 27, 2013 The manual conversion that I had ordered was from an s130, I hadn't read carefully. That basically boils down to the pedals having no chance of fitting the s30 without major modification. I'm considering picking up the Tilton floor-mount clutch/brake pedal assembly, for a few reasons: The ease of isolated brake adjustment will be good if I decide to swap out the front or rear brakes independently of each other, and want to tune them independently. Mounting to the floor can be more firm and stable than mounting to the firewall, especially with a frame rail directly under the pedal box. I have no brake booster, and this gives me an excuse not to buy one. It solves my brake and clutch pedal problem at once. The price is comparable to a stock pedal set, but the Tilton pedals are reported to be very high quality, while the Datsun pedals are middling and clunky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 I rode down with BFG this weekend to pick up the l28e that he had in Boston. It wasn't a cheap endeavor, since I needed to pick up a hoist and engine leveler along the way, but it was an unqualified success. The engine is an n42, which is PERFECT for my goals. I really couldn't hope for a better platform to use. There are a few reasons to like it: Square-port exhaust, which makes exhaust manifold choices much easier Intake ports readily accept carb manifolds Cam is spray-bar style, which is just as well-suited to daily driving, but better suited to racing (hillclimb) than internally-oiled cranks Both l28 blocks are very rugged starting points After pulling the manifolds off and cleaning it up a bit, it doesn't look too bad. It rotates, the cam doesn't look BADLY worn (but it's past its prime), and the oil that drained out of it looked reasonably clean (small traces of rust, but nothing alarming). The problem I see is that the exhaust manifold was badly rusted, and there are a bunch of chunks of rust in the exhaust ports. I'm going to have to lean the engine over away from the spark plugs, but I can't find a good place to attach the engine leveler brackets to on that side of the engine. Rusty exhaust junk that I managed to get out already: Currently, my big questions are: How to get all the rusty piles of 'metal' out of the exhaust ports, without going past the valves? Is it worth pulling the head, and if so how much time/money am I looking at spending for my first-ever Datsun reassembly? I removed the (really heavy) pump from the distributor-side of the engine. Do I need special belts or an additional tensioner? Does anyone have part numbers handy? At the VERY least, I need to replace the alternator/water-pump v-belt Is there a problem with using an l24 distributor on the l28e block? Is the EFI junk worth anything? I'm amassing a pile of EFI components, but have no plans to ever use early Nissan EFI again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 Currently, my big questions are: How to get all the rusty piles of 'metal' out of the exhaust ports, without going past the valves? I'd just deal with rotating the engine. Get the valve in a cylinder sealed and use compressed air to just blow it out. Anything that remains will burn out when the engine runs again... Rotate engine, repeat. Is it worth pulling the head, and if so how much time/money am I looking at spending for my first-ever Datsun reassembly? I just prices out new gaskets, cleaner, stem seals etc. It can be done for $100 for just a top end rebuild. Pull the crank to replace rings and bearings and cost goes up coniderably unless you go with cheap bearings and rings, which I do NOT condone. I removed the (really heavy) pump from the distributor-side of the engine. Do I need special belts or an additional tensioner? Does anyone have part numbers handy? At the VERY least, I need to replace the alternator/water-pump v-belt The heavy pump was probably the AC unit? If so it should have been riding on it's OWN belt. Do you have three belt ribs on the crank or two? If you have to run the belt part numbers from the 280ZX. I currently have two belts, one runs the alt and water pump, the other is just for the power steering. With no power steering you can get away with just the single belt. Is there a problem with using an l24 distributor on the l28e block? Hmmm... I don't have experience with this, but they should all interchange just fine. The key is to make sure you use the shaft for the oil pump that also drives the dizzy from the engine you get the dizzy from, and some dizzies used an extension piece bolted to the front timing cover. Match all those parts and it's all a bolt in affair, then it's just a matter of what it's triggering and such. Is the EFI junk worth anything? I'm amassing a pile of EFI components, but have no plans to ever use early Nissan EFI again. It's not worth a ton as a self standing sell, but I know someone who recently sold a L28ET for about $1k simply because it was a 100% running unit on an engine stand ready to go. People are willing to pay a premium for a motor sitting there that's ready to go, and that's where that EFI is really worth something, just getting a motor lying around running. Parting it out piece meal might not be worth your time and energy. I'd sell it on craigslist for about $250 obo for all of at and see if anyone calls/emails.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted April 3, 2013 Author Share Posted April 3, 2013 I can't run a compressor or generator in this garage, I pretty much just get lights and a small (4.5" wheel) electric grinder. Chunks of rusty metal won't burn out, they'll bend/chip the valves when it's rotated. I'm assuming the bottom end is ok enough to run in this, because if it's not, the engine is pretty much worthless to me. A decent head gasket and head bolts is more expensive than I'd like to dump into this at this point, so I suppose I'm just going to have to hope that none of the rusted exhaust has made its way down into the cylinders. As far as belts go, that all adds up. I assume the alternator bracket serves fine as a tensioner? I'll have updates on the distributor this week, as soon as I have time to dedicate to garage-work again. I'm one of those people who'd pay a premium for a running motor, but haven't been able to find one that was close enough to actually pick up (the closest was down in Ayer, CT ... way too far away). I'm still working on my mass 'for-sale' list, which has some good stuff and some is-it-even-worth-shipping stuff. I'll post that here to give HBZ first dibs on whatever people need, then move on to CL. I hope to have another update tonight, but I doubt there will be much visible progress this week. I won't be able to install the engine until I receive the transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 I use one belt. It is on my crank, alternator and water pump. I use my alternator to tension the belt. It's been running like that for 30k miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted April 3, 2013 Author Share Posted April 3, 2013 I don't see a problem with it, in theory. I just wanted to make sure my theory was one that has some proof of working in the real world. I'm convinced. Do you know what length or part number you use? My old belt looked about as nice as the pile of rusty junk that came out of the exhaust manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted April 3, 2013 Author Share Posted April 3, 2013 I just had what I consider to be a major realization that I wanted to share, though it's a little off-topic. I've had a lot of people ask "Why not just build what you want once?" and while that's a much more efficient way to build a car, you need to have a very clear goal in mind and a very clear budget and all the resources required must be together ahead of time. In an effort to explain why I'm just taking a small chunk of money and a short timeframe to build an imperfect car, I'm going to break down how I write software on a daily basis and parallels that I've seen between software and automobile development problems. Problem 1 - I don't know my needs I can't build an exact build spec. Many builds are planned out by deciding what brand intake manifold, what size wheels/tires to use, what line of coilovers to use, etc ... before knowing exactly what problems are being solved. I really only know the fundamental problems with the car right now: It doesn't run, the front suspension leaves much to be desired, and the unibody is pretty floppy overall. I also know that the l-series engines have a shortcoming in oil delivery when raced, but beyond that? I have no way to know how I need to adjust my alignment, since I don't know the driving characteristics of this particular car. I can't choose tires because I don't know what compound, width, or height will work best with my suspension geometry. I'm looking for balance, but planning out a balanced car is a very big challenge. Problem 2 - I don't have all the resources to build an ubercar I don't have a compressor, can't run my welder, don't have any machining tools, don't have a frame rotisserie, don't have $15k that I can spend, and even if I did, I wouldn't know what I'm supposed to spend it on yet (since I can't drive the car). I've always believed that a running slow-car is better than a theoretical fast-car. If I had to wait 'till I had all the money, I'd be waiting for 2-3 years before I was 100% ready to get started, and I'd much rather have a running clunker in the meantime than to wait ~5 years to have my ubercar. Problem 3 - It hasn't been driven in 6 years This isn't a problem in and of itself, since assembling parts into a running car isn't very difficult. The problem is that every person who's owned it has bit off more than they could chew. They started building high-hp engines or had big plans for the interior, and ran out of gumption because the projects were all just too big, with no payoff in the middle. Driving the car is payoff, and that tends to keep me motivated to improve it without losing the key feature of 'running'. Solution - Build in iterations In software, I work in a Scrum/Agile environment. That basically means that we develop in small chunks, and keep a running build at all times. If a new feature is going to be added, we build it externally along with an integration process. Translated to the car, that means keeping the car on the road throughout all its modifications. When I get around to developing a splitter, I'll take measurements, draw up a schematic, build a prototype off the car, then finally test fit and install ... without pulling the car apart. If I'm rebuilding the engine, I'll get a second engine, build it on a stand, then swap it in. Keeping the core functional at all times is a very high priority. Similarly, documentation is important. I already have a driving log prepped, where I'm going to track mileage, handling characteristics, tire pressures/wear characteristics, and a modification log. If I'm struggling with a problem like turn-in understeer, I want to be able to solve it with analysis of data I already have, rather than trial-and-error. The goal is to solve the problems that I actually have, not problems that other people solved on their cars. While I'm sure there will be some overlap (the stock s30 tire sizes leave much to be desired, for instance) I won't necessarily want to go with the same solution as everyone else (I may find that steel 15x8 wheels with 245-series tires fit my needs much better than the 'standard' 17x9.5 Rota RB's do) because I don't necessarily have the same problems. I really hope this offers a little insight into why I'm approaching this build the way I am. I'm not trying to prove a point or have a more impressive car than some other person does. I want to enjoy the hell out of this thing, and hopefully get it to the point where it can be my daily driver and weekend motorsport machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 (edited) I'll get back to you on size. I know I had to use a different belt(nothing for an L series would fit). Just need to check the length and width. As for your breakdown, working on a running, driving car is much more satisfying then working on a car that is on jackstands. I try to keep all my projects limited to a weekend AT MOST. Sure I have other forms of transportation, but driving my Z is a reward in itself. It keeps me motivated to keep making it better. If I had all the money I've ever spent on my Z, I'm sure I wouldn't have spent it in the way that I have (putting money into projects here and there). It would be a completely different car. Edited April 3, 2013 by BluDestiny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 I use one belt. It is on my crank, alternator and water pump. I use my alternator to tension the belt. It's been running like that for 30k miles. I'll get back to you on size. I know I had to use a different belt(nothing for an L series would fit). Just need to check the length and width. Huh? That's a standard 280ZX alternator belt.... http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MBH0/9350/03305.oap?year=1981&make=Nissan&model=280ZX&vi=1209338&ck=Search_C0074_1209338_2871&pt=C0074&ppt=C0007 Note that it says "fan and alternator"... tada! And the part number in case that link dies eventually, is 9350 from MasterPro, or 9350 From Gates Main reason I'm making sure to clarify this, is that using the alternator as the ONLY tensioner for it's belt is an OEM application. If you have issues you probable have some other issue somewhere regarding pulley alignment, or you under/over tightened it. Just wanted clear info out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 No photos today, but I did get the l24 distributor on the n42 block without any issues, and it rotates when I rotate the crank. I also cleaned up the valves, using an ingenious combination of toothbrushes, nylon picks, and magnets (there's enough ferrous metal that magnets still work). I had to implement a lot of gravity and a lot of engine-shaking too, but I'm fairly confident that it's 'clean enough' now. The l24 water pump also fits, but I'm going to need a new gasket and all new bolts (for pretty much everything, really). I'll still need a new gasket, which I haven't been able to find without a pump attached. The alternator doesn't rotate. I have the l24 alternator, but haven't tested it, and still have that SBC alternator, which looks like it could be as easy as a pulley swap (maybe) to get it mounted up. I think the most likely solution is going to be a new alternator, but that bumps my budget up a fair amount. The coolant inlet (on the manifold-side of the engine) is completely hosed. The bolts were all frozen, and even with copious heat as well as PB Blaster, they weren't going anywhere without breaking. So they broke. I have the 240z housing, but there's a metal inlet (or outlet) on the rear side of it (it's around 2/3" in diameter) that's totally bent out of shape. I haven't had any luck bending it back into shape or removing it, but still haven't tried heat. I think the best bet now is to just buy one (or five?) off someone who's parting an engine out and call it done. They're small and light, which makes them easy to ship. Right now, I'm going to assume the oil pump works, because I don't have a test procedure in my FSM. I also noticed that the mechanical fuel pump slot exists, but I'm looking for some experience as to whether or not I can just put an l24/l26 fuel pump on the n42 and not need to worry about a low-pressure electronic system. This weekend, I'd like to reorganize the garage a bit. With 3 engines in various states of disassembly, a complete interior that isn't stored compactly inside the car, and both toolboxes in a small area, I don't have a choice but to clean up. I should have a 4spd transmission to mock up as well, and I hope to contact John from Bad Dog tomorrow. If all goes well, I can get some carbs, an exhaust manifold, and maybe some of the other little extras I need from him (but my budget will be the determining factor). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 Today could've gone better. I decided enough is enough, and after a bottle of mystery oil, 4 cans of PB blaster, a bunch of WD-40, and a big old bottle of propane from the torch, the time had come to remove the rods from the l24. After I got the crank off, the first three pistons came out without complaint. The fourth needed some massaging. The fifth was downright difficult. The sixth ... was ... well ... it went badly. These were only going to be spares anyway, so it's not too big of a deal, but it would have been nice to have a spare set of l24 rods. The block hadn't fared very well, either. The cylinder walls are pretty close to what I'd consider "beyond repair" and on an l24, they're certainly beyond "worth repair". I also realized that I don't have a pulley for the water pump, but it looks like the l24 water pump snout sticks out too far for the l28e crank pulley. Sorry I don't have any pictures, but does anyone have any thoughts regarding that? I ordered a few gaskets and bolts for the l28 as well, and with any luck I'll be able to finish assembling that this weekend, and get it (and the transmission) installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 Worth repair? Maybe not. But if you had some L28 pistons I'm sure once you'd bored out to 86mm I'm sure they'd look brand new. But you would have to have some L28 pistons lying around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240z Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 I have some, but they are dished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 I have some, but they are dished. Yea, L24 bored to 86 with L28 dish pistons + N42 head + L24 Crank + L24 Rods puts you in the upper 7:1 ratio, about 7.8 I believe. Flat tops would put you in the low 9's, around 9.3:1 Flat tops would be more ideal, or dish with the L28 crank and rods too... Full blown L28 at that point, why save the block except maybe it's cheaper than getting a full L28 motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted April 6, 2013 Author Share Posted April 6, 2013 Either way, why spend the money machining an l24 block when I could just hone an l28 block instead? I see no reason to hang on to this lump of iron. I'll get the $25 or so that i can for scrapping it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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