Fuel Lines (Pros Cons) Push Lock/Hardlines/SS Braided?

[EastTnZ]

Ok I'm about ready to purchase my fuel setup (1 month out or less) and here's my delimma...

 

I am using this car for almost everything:

-daily driver

-autocross/road coarse track days

-weekend get away car with gf

 

What's the most reliable setup for a fuel system using an aftermarket fuel cell?

Pros and cons of each setup and I'm up for others ideas.

 

I'm more than likely going with the following:

-Corvette FPR (WIX 33737)

-Walbro 255 Kit (GSL392)

-Fuel Filter

-Fuel Shut Off Valve near tank (ease of changing filters/pumps etc...)

-16 or 20 gallon fuel cell with dual -8AN sump tank (plastic) from summit/jegs with fuel level sender for autometer gauges 0-90ohm...

 

The question is which line setup is more long term without using SS hardlines?

-Push Lock Hoses from major parts sellers (haven't seen it used often)

-Aluminum Hardlines for bulk of fuel setup (worried about rubbing holes over long term/but cheaper for lines and fittings/still need braided for some sections/easy to flare)

-SS Braided Lines (vapors coming through lines over time/how often to replace/more expensive)

 

My HP goal is 350-375rwhp at the most so I don't worry about breaking my 300ZXT CV's as often. Hence the -6AN line choice.

 

Thanks for the help in advance!

[RebekahsZ]

Do as I say, not as I do:

 

I made a steel hard line and fit it down the tranny tunnel in the exact location of the original lines, then had AN6 fittings welded to both ends.  I then have flex line from my tank to a screen filter, then to my Walbro pump, then to my Corvette FPR, then to the hard lines.  At the firewall, the hard line is then connected to a flex line, then to the stock LS2 fuel rail.  For flex lines, I used inexpensive push-on AN6 fittings from Speedwaymotors.com and used their black rubber high pressure fuel line that is made to work with the connectors.  The flex line part was easy, except that you should cut all flex lines 1/4" longer than you think you really need because the line shortens when it stretches to go over the barbed fittings.  Buy a few extra fittings-once you push the fitting into the line, it ain't coming off again!  If I did another car, I would just run flex lines from the back of the car to the front-making that 3/8" line and routing it down the top of the trans tunnel was a major delay-er in completing the job.  Just run it down the "frame rail" like most guys do.  For that long section along the floor pan, I would use braided because it is likely to get scraped some on speed bumps.  Go ahead and buy a cheap set of AN wrenches-it makes the job so much easier.  I also wish I had spent the money for a fuel cutoff so I can service the filter without having to run the tank dry first.  I had sandblasted my tank (dont do that), so it took 4 or 5 filter cleanings before I stopped getting a lot of sand trapped in the filter, so plan on serviceing it a few times after you get your car running.  I think that is about it: speedwaymotors.com has the best prices on AN fittings and hose.  One more thought:  you say you only want stock LS power-that will change.  nmoel told me that speed is addictive and he is right.  Go ahead and plan you fuel system to allow for a second fuel pickup on your tank and allow room for a second fuel pump and filter so you can have a fuel-safe system when you go to nitrous later.  I know you say you won't do it, but what a PITA it is to add those things later if you change your mind.

Edited April 3, 2013 by RebekahsZ

[SUNNY Z]

-6 is plenty of fuel for a whole lot more than 375whp fwiw. I ran braided -6 all the way to the the rail. Would I do it again? Yes. But now i have a bender, tubing cuter, flaring tool, AN holding fixture, AN hose cutter, etc. As long as you mount it well, aluminum fuel line will do fine. Do your research, and you'll be happy

[Zfan1]

Just installed a Bosche 044 pump and Wix Corvette style filter, regulator, return unit. I used An fittings (push lock)  10an to the pump and transitioned from 8an to 6an up front. I didn't use any hard lines.

[EastTnZ]

Thanks guys for all the info and experiences. I think I'll go with push lock lines and see how it goes. And yeah rebekahsz that's why I am gonna buy the dual outlet -8an tank lol speed is very addictive

 

Does anybody by chance have a part number for a fuel rated valve to put in my fuel system? I've barely scratched the surface on looking for one but if somebody already has a setup that works please let me know.

 

Zfan1 have you tried a walbro vs the bosche you just installed? How's the sound comparing the two? I don't think it'll matter because of my future exhaust setup will drown it out but I'm curious.

[z240]

Something from a old thread is sticking in my mind about certain racing orgs requiring hard fuel line under the car and in the trans tunnel. Makes sense to me with the posibility of a ground rub or drive shaft letting loose tearing up soft lines. Maybe SS braided line is tough enough.  This is just a vague memory, but might be worth checking out before committing a bunch of coin on long lengths of SS braid line.

 

Even if the groups that you plan to race with don't check or don't care about this stuff, it makes a certain amount of safety sense to use hard lines.

Edited April 3, 2013 by z240

[h4nsm0l3m4n]

I have used both walbro and bosch, they both work fine.  If you want to get technical, the bosch 044 pump flows much better, especially at these higher pressures. 

 

For fuel, I removed the factory fuel rail and used it as a guide for bending a new 3/8" hardline.  Took like 10 minutes to bend the line and it mounted back into the stock mounts without an issues.  I used rubber fuel injection rubber hose and fuel injection hose clamps and hose barb fittings as needed in places where I needed flexibility.  The components were pretty cheap and can be replaced easily or re-routed if I choose to change the fuel system.  It doesnt look fancy but its very functional.

Edited April 3, 2013 by h4nsm0l3m4n

[zdlite]

Copper nickel line is a dream to work with and will last forever.  Just expensive.  For cheap hardline lots of guys are turning to OEM style nylon.  About the most inexpensive and durable way to do it.

[RebekahsZ]

I had a real hard time bending 3/8" metal line without kinking it. There are a few bends that I'm not proud of but I had to accept some imperfection and move on. There are several valves in either jegs, summit or speedway. Very expensive so I didn't use one but I wish I had.

[socorob]

This place used to be aeroquip.cc and had the cheapest stainless teflon line. I think they had the one with the stripe that was for some racing sanctioning body also, but that was much more expensive. The guy told me it was the same hose but didn't undergo the testing the striped one had, that's why it was half the price, but it was the same quality. It was for some industrial use.

http://hosewarehouse.com/Hydraulic/Hydraulic-Accessories

[Zfan1]

The Bosche is better and a little less noisy but costs a whole lot more. I picked up my Bosche pump thru Amazon where I am a member and it set me back 235.00 with Wix regulator, filter, return. Bosche pumps can run around 300-350 retail from local parts houses. The Walbro's are much cheaper, just make sure it is the real deal what ever pump you buy!  The cheapo Chinese knock offs are everywhere and some are hard to tell apart.