col10see Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 The rest didn't make sense to me. When you say air coming in, where is it "coming in" to? Air moving into the inlet side of the compressor housing I also get that the bov needs to be on the pressurized side of the compressor side of the turbo, to release pressure, thats why I put it on the pressurized side of the compressor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 I think I misread that statement. Are you saying you want to recirculate the bov air to the compressor inlet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
col10see Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 (edited) Between the afm and the inlet of the compressor. In the long run I would like to route my intake/air filter in front of the radiator to start with cooler air in stead of sucking in hot air right off the radiator. Though it may be a negligible air temp diference by the time it passes through the turbo. And I would also like to put the afm near the stock location so I can get easier access if I need to tweek it a little. Edited May 12, 2013 by col10see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
col10see Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Im thinking I want to lean it out a little low end any pressure recommendations for the turbo injectors. From what ive gathered its 36psi at idle with no vac... Also if I do that im guessing I want to get a fmu what ratio for 13 psi. 5:1? Hopfully soon I can find some doner dished pistons and rebuild the motor. Also heres a pic of the the turbo blanket.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
col10see Posted May 21, 2013 Author Share Posted May 21, 2013 (edited) Over the weekend I decided to do my struts. Strut rod bushings and control arm bushings I also replaced all my springs with st springs but they were too low so I added some spring spacerz. Whole different driving experience now! . Edited May 21, 2013 by col10see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 Are you still using stock shocks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
col10see Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 I guess so. Gabriel replacements from ghetozone.. not OEM from nissan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
col10see Posted May 24, 2013 Author Share Posted May 24, 2013 (edited) Found this http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/45414-gulp-fmu/page-3 Im not surs if the people are using na injectors or turbo Use the pressure ratio to determine how much more fuel you will need. This is how Corky Bell does it in his turbo manual. For example: if you are going to run 8 psi of boost then the pressure ratio is (8 + 14.7) /14.7 = 1.544. So you will be making 54.4% more power and will need 54% more fuel. (In theroy). So.... (pressure ratio x pressure ratio) x 36 psi = FMU pressure needed. FYI, 36 psi is Z full throttle fuel pressure. (1.544 x 1.544) x 36 = 86 psi. 86 psi will be a good starting point, but you need to check a/f during boost and make adjustments. 85 psi doesn't take into account boost acting on the injector or a turbos need for more fuel/hp. Corkey Bell says the FMU is only good for 10 psi because the fuel pressure gets to high after that. You will need a fuel pressure gauge in the car to check the pressure when driving. That pressure may be hard to hold during high fuel rates. I have run as low as 65 psi with 8 psi and 85 psi with 12 psi of boost, but the a/f ratios were about 14:1 which is not the best to make power and reduce detontion. I currently run 11 psi of boost with 95 psi of fuel pressure. I had run 13 to 14 psi of boost with that fuel pressure, but recently turned down the boost a little to get more favorable a/f ratios and haven't noticed a lost of power. Acording to this theory and my math I need to run a 12:1 fmu and be into the 130s psi @ 10psi boost(i dont have my paper with me I will edit this with my info.... But according to what the guy says to be at 95psi @ 11psi boost, I would really want like a 6:1 Also note the compression ratio given at example... I used the comp ratio of 8.3 Edited May 24, 2013 by col10see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jenova Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Awesome! Just wondering, but around how much did it cost for the conversion without the intercooler? Is it easy to lose traction as opposed to when it was N/A? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
col10see Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 All together minus intercooler 40 $ eBay, I'd say less than 600$ all diy fab except the alum bends and couplings turbo was like 250 $ worked like a charm.. I had less than optimal compression so it didn't spin tires uncontrollably. It only spun if I made it. I recently sold it though:( but I got a nice well taken care of old man's 350z instead:)... I miss it now and then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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