alexx933 Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 Bumblezee wrote the guide using an 81 though? Wouldn't that mean that I should just do as he did? And yes, that is exactly right about the CAS. mounts on the AC bracket and has a plug with 4 pins up by the distributor. My TPS plug was cut off when I picked the harness up. So I spliced the plug off my old harness to use on the new one. I'm going to end up cutting the plug in figure Q in order to extend the wires and ?sauder? them together. I don't think you spell it that way. So currently, my harness is pretty much back off while it is being modified. Any other suggestions as to what else should be done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexx933 Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 I'm about to tear my hair out with this. I just don't get what I'm doing wrong. The hei is wired correctly, and I'm still not getting any spark at all. Any body willing to come help? The mechanic I'm with doesn't have experience converting a vehicle so he doesn't know what I should do either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Break the system down in to pieces. You can make the coil produce a spark by attaching a jumper wire to the negative coil and tapping it to ground with the key on if there's power to + post. Connect a voltmeter or test light to Pin 5 and see if the ECU is producing the +/- voltage signal to the HEI module W pin. Confirm good gorund from the wide mounting grommet on the module. Confirm the the wires to the module have power at B and C when the key is on. Somewhere out there is a way to check that the CAS is producing the signal to the ECU, find that and check the CAS signal. Some are easy to confirm, some take a little ingenuity. Follow the path and confirm as much as you can - CAS signal > ECU > ECU voltage pulse to Pin 5 > Pin 5 to HEI module > HEI module triggers coil > etc. One or more of these things must not be happening. If you're lucky, it will be an easy one to remedy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 You should be able to find some members in the area, There are a lot of people in WA on ratsun.net. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexx933 Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 Getting spark! Put some starting fluid in and there was a big bang after a couple seconds. Figured the timing was off so I turned the distributor around. After that got nothing again but the blue / red wire isnt going to the fuel pump relay yet so that could be it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexx933 Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 Thanks again guys! Calming down and figuring everything out after a short break helped immensely. As I said above, I have spark now! Yesterday, I was going to run the blue/red wire next to the FI relay to the fuel pump relay on the 77. Unfortunately, the relay was no where to be found for a good hour. I looked in the FSM from 78, and the book said there are two relay brackets: under the passenger side dash with five relays, and next to the battery underneath the bracket the fusible links are mounted to with three relays. All the relays under the passenger dash belonged to the body electrical. Under the bracket in the engine bay was a single box that didn't resemble a relay at all. I still am unsure as to what that even is. So after much looking, I remembered there were a couple relays in the 77 EFI harness. One of which ran across to the passenger side. I pulled the relay with the plug off the 77 harness and pretty much re-installed it with a new constant 12v and ground. The fuel pump runs now (fuel pressure was 35 psi), and I didn't even hook the blue/red wire from the guide up. I'm not sure as to why. So currently, the motor will turn, fire, and die. Every now and then, the engine with stay running for a couple full rotations but always dies. The turbo even spools when it decides to run longer than normal! I took a video of this, but you can't really tell that it fires at all. I may upload that after this. I'm truly stumped on why the motor will not run. I know that to get good reliable information from any generous people on hybridz, I need to tell everything that is happening. 1. Spark plugs are black 2. Dies under any throttle at all 3. The AAC valve is directly connected to a vacuum without the use of a VCM 4. Valve cover is off in order to adjust the valves 5. Bunch of plugs capping off manifold leaks due to missing lines 6. TPS plug was cut off the 81 harness so I spliced and soldered the 77 plug onto the new one. There were three wires leading to the plug on the 77 and two on the 81. The wires leading to the plug on the 81 are Blue with black stripe and a blue with green stripe. The green striped wire was a constant 12v which I connected to the middle pin on the plug. The blacked striped one I connected to the left pin if you are on the driver side fender looking at the TPS. Is this correct? If not, that could be a big issue. What would the correct positions be? I think that's all I have for now. Once more, Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexx933 Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 Sorry for the bad quality. It's hard to tell that the engine even fires, but here it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 "This video is private". See if the AFM vane is moving. Watch the counterwieght or hold it open a little bit while starting. Sounds like it's starting on "Start enrichment" but not getting enough AFM signal to keep going. Did you block the PCV line so that you can run with the rocker cover off? Might be easier to just put the cover on and connect the lines. Vacuum lekas are a killer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexx933 Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 You were right, the vane doesn't move. It should be sucking in air but when I hold the vane open it runs for longer than normal. It still dies though. I'm currentlyputting the vvalve cover on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexx933 Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 Fixed the privacy of the video. Fortunately, I have fixed everything except one wire. The blue/red wire that runs to the fuel pump relay was never hooked up as I said before. I was losing fuel pressure and that was why it died. I ran some clips from the battery to where that blue/red wire is supposed to go in order to make sure I had the right idea, and viola! The motor ran perfect as soon as the fuel pump was receiving constant 12v. Walt (the hosting mechanic) had his volt meter hooked to the blue/red wire to make sure that it was doing as we needed it to and accidently pressed a button that sent 12v up the blue/red wire. Now nothing comes from that wire except a ground. We think it shorted out that pin/item on the ECCS. So that leaves me with how to wire up the fuel pump relay in a way so that it is only on with ignition and turns off when the motor stops such as in a crash. Walt had an idea to hook it up to the alternator because in a crash, the alternator will stop which would turn the fuel pump off. Are there any other options to do this?Thanks for all the help guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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