mattb3562 Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Well, it's been a long road to turbodom, but I finally everything together to get my engine started on MS1v3 this past weekend. After a couple leaks fixed and about 4 hrs of wiring, she turned over smooth, but did not fire. Connected to Tunerstudio, all guages were reading except the tach on Tunerstudio. I was by myself, so I could not hold the coil wire to ground to check spark, but I would safely assume there is none. I have just took a good look over the ecu board that I built and all connections/solders look good to me. I double checked over the high current coil driver instructions on the Megamanual assembly site and modifications to the board from the DIY site on installing for l28et site, and all looks well. I'm wondering what the bip373 should show on the three legs while powered up. Also, my other theory is that the way I wired the CAS is with 12v going to the dizzy and the signal wired to the 1k resistor and tied back to the 12v constant on the dizzy. This may be knocking my dizzy power back down thru the resisitor? This evening I'm gonna run my signal back to battery 12v thru the 1k resistor and see if that fixes it. Any thoughts? Also, here is some screenshots of my board, if anyone sees anything I'm missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Do you have any larger pictures of the board? Those are a bit tricky for me to interpret. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattb3562 Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 I will send some that are huge to your email address on the DIY website. I appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattb3562 Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 I coulda swore I seen your email address on the DIY site once, but didn't find it. Anyway, here are some bigger pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattb3562 Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 After some troubleshooting yesterday evening, I believe I've come to the conclusion to have a bad CAS inside the distributor. The thing that's really unnerving is that there seems to be NO TEST PROCEDURE IN THE FSM. In the desciption it says it releases simply an "on/off" signal at 120 degrees. I am getting a square wave out of it going from continuity to ground, but it seems the MS is wanting a positive voltage signal to fire. I am using my power probe to power up the signal wire through the 1k resistor and holding 12v on the white wire, every now and again it will send a signal to the ecu and MS will fire the coil. Very intermitently. For those of you familiar with a power probe, I can hit the button rapidly to supply 12v pulses to the signal wire, and it will spit and sputter like it's wanting to start. There, I get a triggering LED on the ecu. I hate just replacing parts so does this theory sound right to yall? It looks like a 0-12v or a 0-5v pattern coming out of the dizzy at the proper timing would be exactly what it needs. Thanks alot for any thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam280Z Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 1) I couldn't quite follow how you have the CAS wired. It should be wired as shown on DIYAutoTune . It sounds like it is probably wired this way, but can you verify for us? 2) To diagnose your issue, you should be looking the ignition logger in TunerStudio. It is under the diagnostics tab 3) If you provide your msq file, we can check your settings. The CAS is pretty sturdy. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattb3562 Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 I have a switched 12v wire running to red wire on dizzy and the shielded pair run with white wire out of pair to white wire on dizzy. One side of my 1k resistor is inline with this signal wire and the other side of the resistor runs back to 12v. (which for now is my power probe for troubleshooting). I first had the signal to resistor combo tying back to my switched 12v and it was doing the same as it is now with its dedicated 12v to each. Black wire out of the shielded pair is going to dizzy ground. I have also tried grounding dizzy to chassis and to engine with no luck. I havn't been watching the ignition logger on Tunerstudio, but I will try that today. I have just been watching the tach on the guage cluster. It hardly and randomly tries to fire when the signal has a constant 12v on it, but when I manually pulse a signal, it will try something. Out of time, though, of course. I'm using Cygnus's newest map on the map sharing section, as it is a very similar setup. However, he was using EDIS and I'm triggering a MSD coil directly, so that could be a variable....I actually havn't seen in Tunerstudio where to change to 'standard coil charge' as it shows in Megatune. I don't think that would keep the engine from starting, though. The ecu does seem to be doing what it's supposed to when it gets a signal, though. I get an LED and it triggers the coil to spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam280Z Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 You need to configure the ignition settings to match your installation. I imagine this is your problem, but need to see your msq to be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattb3562 Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 I uploaded Cygnusx1's map from this page. Its the GREAT!.zip file Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam280Z Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 That tune file is configured for MSII with EDIS. You are using MS1 with some other ignition. TunerStudio will not even load Cygnusx1's msq file with a MS1 firmware project without a ton of warnings. I have no idea what settings you have ended up with. I'm mostly familiar with MS3 and will not be much help except to tell you that you are doing it wrong. You need to read the manual, especially the sections on ignition setup. http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html If you want to use Cygnusx1's "map", you should export each table and import them into your tune. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattb3562 Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 Yeah that's what I have done. Opened Tuner studio and manually entered all of the settings. Idk about the firmware compatibility, but all of the guage s are reading well on the software and the trigger logger showed me signal earlier and sparking well. I'm now thinking it's just needs timed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattb3562 Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 Well, an update for those in the future with a similar problem....a bad CAS was causing my ignition woes. It was send an inconsistent signal. It now cranks fairly easy. I have to hold slight throttle on it, but still haven't set base timing yet, but hope to have it running on a decent tune this weekend. And yes, the ms1 with the 029y4a firmware works well with TS 2.0.8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattb3562 Posted July 7, 2013 Author Share Posted July 7, 2013 Alright, the reman dizzy I bought from Advance did work for me and got my engine running. I set it to an 18 degrees fixed advance and set the base timing. It all worked out well and showed the 18 that was commanded through the rpm range. All was well. A few days later while working on some other bugs with the car, the engine went back to doing the same thing. No crank trigger. No square wave from the dizzy. I got them to replace the distributor that I bought with another one and it fired right up. That has worked well for the last couple of weeks, only being cranked less than ten times, and it quit on me again Thursday. What I'm trying to figure out is if there's something I've done to cause these to go out or if they're just junk. Here is my diagram to how I have it wired. I used a 4 pin Denso connector to the dizzy with everything nicely soldered and heatshrinked. For 12v, I have a main relay taking constant power and a switched 12v signal from an unplugged efi connector on my 76's harness under the steering column. That relay sends power to a 6 way fuse block that sends independent circuits to the Megasquirt, coil, injectors, and distributor. Grounding is a 4ga running from battery to bellhousing and a 10ga from battery to firewall. I've ran a 12ga from battery to firewall on driver's side that connects all of my ecu grounds in the same place. I ran all of the sensor grounds to the sensor ground wire in DIY harness. My plan is to strap the body to engine with another 4ga to tie it all together. Also may run an independent gound to the dizzy black wire instead of just relying on the shielded black wire in the DIY harness. I was hoping to keep out noise by grounding to the shielded wire. However, I honestly don't believe it's something in my wiring because it was working well and showing good triggers before it quits. Any opinions are greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattb3562 Posted July 7, 2013 Author Share Posted July 7, 2013 I forgot to label it, but the yellow square in that diagram is a 1k 1/4 watt resistor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 Just a guess, but the FSM shows all four wires to the distributor coming from the control unit, in the factory set-up. Power out from the control unit is usually in the 5 volt range, I believe. You have 12 volts in to the optical sensor in the CAS when it probably only needs 5 or less. You could add some resistance to the power supply wire to the distributor to drop it down to 5 volts. Or power it from MS, which has some 5 volt out circuits, I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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