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Okay thanks for the info. I have a 77 and have to smog it. Even with the work I have done to the f.i. it will pass but just barely. So I was thinking of looking into megasquirt but, if I have to adjust megasquirt why would I spend the money on it? It wouldnt be any different than just keeping it stock and having to adjust it for smog right? 

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"if I have to adjust megasquirt why would I spend the money on it? It wouldnt be any different than just keeping it stock and having to adjust it for smog right? "

 

This statement is so wrong I don't even know where to begin.

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What numbers are you close to failing on and what have you done to correct them?

The MS will not correct issues with worn or stuck parts, and you then have to deal

with potential issues with the visual inspection.

 

The MS is an amazing investment and the flexibility that concerns you is what

makes it so valuable, but from the info you provided I doubt it is the answer to

your situation.

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Dan_Austin, everyone I know (personally) in CA has problems when it comes to smogging. I don't know anyone that can take their 280 in and it pass without adjustments of some kind. That is my goal. To have a worry free FI system if there is such a thing. Our 2005 Altima has 171000 miles and everything is perfect with it, knock on wood! No FI problems at all. It is just a pain anymore, due to health issues, to worry about getting the Z to pass. I am a member of the online "classiczcarclub" and was able to work out most of the problems with my FI. I may just be complaining a little also. I have to lean the AFM, retard timing, and raise the idle for it to pass. It would be nice to not have to do that anymore is all Im trying to say. Like I said maybe Im just complaining about nothing. It starts every time, idles perfect, doesnt over heat, 21 mpg combined. Ok someone go ahead and say it....stop worrying about it?  

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If you are not facing a check in the near future I would suggest that you leave it as

is and do as much reading as you are comfortable with on the MS system.

 

The one time I had a problem with the sniffer test I had a loose TPS that had

self-adjusted so it was always in full throttle mode (pig rich), Once I fixed that

up it tested with only 5~7% of the allowed limits in each category.  As long

as your sensors and wiring connectors are in good shape the stock system

is about as worry free as you can find.

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Probably good advice. All connectors including the TPS and AFM ones have been replaced. TPS, AAR, TTS, CTS, injectors are also new. When I say new, no older than 2 years. I have recently discovered corrosion deeper in the harness's than I wanted to see so I know I have added resistance and that is a bad thing. Thanks for the help. 

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FYI: some of the first B&G Circuitboard MS1 Group Buy people were VW Bus owners in Long Beach that had TERRIBLE smog issues. The VW AFC and Prior systems are known for glitchy AFM's and sensor issues combining to go pig rich and fail smog in a GP way. Their short exhaust systems don't help things at all.

 

These guys ecstatically praised how their Busses passed with flying colors once converted to MS in a "Stealth" conversion retaining the look of the stock system.Seems that tweaking the resistive curve of he respective sensors to compensate for that deep harness corrosion had a great deal to do with having to not replace a $1,500 harness on a $700 Bus...meaning you could make the next Dead Tribute Concert on schedule and sell your blotter unimpeded by The Man and His Regulations... A single configured GPO will handle your EGR just fine, same as the Nissan setup. They have been smogging in such a configuration since 2000... Or so I hear. I wouldn't know firsthand.

 

Converting it to MS is Illegal.

 

I only hear of this. I have no firsthand knowledge, nor would I participate, in an illegal activity such as converting vehicles to MS In a Stealth Conversion to keep older classic vehicles clean, running, and on the road. I agree with out Governmental Overlords that any vehicle over 10 years old should be banned from entry to the L.A. Basin, and any uncatalyzed vehicle should be confiscated and crushed in the pursuit of "cleaner air for the children and Mother Earth."

Edited by Tony D
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I have good news! I paid a shop to put my Z through the test and it passed without any adjustments! His comment was "I have not seen one run this clean in a long time". When I mentioned above that I had replaced the TPS and AFM connectors I failed to mention that those were recent changes, after the last smog. These were too corroded to clean thats why I changed them out. It only cost me 20 bucks and he spun it up on the dyno like they do here in CA and I couldn't believe how clean it was running. CO=.07 at idle,  and less than that for the 15 and 25 mph test. I asked about HC's and he said "way within spec". Boy what a good feeling! I still have the issue with the corrosion deeper in the harness, or at least I think it is. Maybe it's not as bad as I thought if I'm putting out good numbers for smog. Or maybe I should just leave it alone.

 

I agree to a certain degree with TonyD regarding cleaner air which is why I worked on this Z as hard as I did. Now I can drive it and enjoy it. Went through a Carl's Jr drive through yesterday for a cold soda pop and couldn't smell burning exhaust like I did before which also tells me it is running clean. Now on to find out what the clunk is from the right rear. Almost sounds like a busted strut.

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Yeah, well if it passed then I'll say it, "don't worry about it."   

 

As for your "Clunk" noise, it's probably not the shock, it's probably your half shaft has a failing U joint. You should fix/replace that before it gets too bad. And don't let anyone tell you the U joints aren't replaceable. They're a pain, but they ARE replaceable. (though may be cheaper to pull one from a junker, Ask your local Z club for parts cars, or there's a myriad of sellers on here.)  

 

As for Legal, you just need a C.A.R.B sticker, Too bad MegaSquirt isn't certified...  I imagine they'd sell a lot more if they were able to get that.  

 

Now one CARB legal swap I've been itching to try is the Jeep ECU MPI system. (normally it's for upgrading carburated jeeps to EFI, but it should work fine on the L28 since it's made for the 2.3L and the 4.2L engines using the same ECU. ratio's are adjusted in the ECU based on the O2 readings.   Ala Hesco,  Hesco is too expensive but the system is the same, you can get the CARB sticker from them for buying a harness or other main components.  The downside is though it'll run fine MPI, it's not tunable like MS is.

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