Pharaohabq Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Okay, No happy #'s for me Now this part should probably be moved to a new thread. Cooling the Injectors, starting with Nigel's Post#57. Now this is aside from the idea that the cooler Thermo might fix the issue. Using side feed injectors needs to be looked at. as they may run cooler. Anyone else figure a solution for cooling the intake to prevent heat soak from locking your injectors. Perhaps a thick Kevlar intake manifold gasket. Something to insulate the Intake from the block. I'd imagine that should solve that problem without too much work or too much modification. it certainly makes more sense than doing something crazy like running additional cooling lines across your injectors. Though Concievably, you could make a set of heat sinks and strap them to each injector to do a similar job. If my 280 was having that issue I might try those. My trouble is on the 260Z, so we're waiting to get the 70C thermo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Well, a good start is to use the webbed manifolds, and not the early ones without webbing... Blocking of the radiant heat from the exhaust manifold.... Or appearance? I like soy on my rice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 I know this is a really old thread, but I did want to state that the cooler thermostat did handle most of my heat soak issues, but if I drive a while and then park, then try to go again, it's a bit harder to start. It's nowhere as bad as it used to be. I might try the webbed manifold if I can find one. If not I might try zip tying a plate under my intake to see if that'll fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 I know this is a really old thread, but I did want to state that the cooler thermostat did handle most of my heat soak issues, but if I drive a while and then park, then try to go again, it's a bit harder to start. It's nowhere as bad as it used to be. I might try the webbed manifold if I can find one. If not I might try zip tying a plate under my intake to see if that'll fix it. I was talking to a local club member this past weekend who has a 280ZX turbo with the stock webbed intake manifold. His injector cooling fan just died, and he’s now having hot start issues. So, the webbed manifold doesn’t appear to be the solution. After everything I’ve tried, the only thing I’ve found that works is to add a delayed off timer to my electric rad fan circuit. The timer keeps the fan circuit energized for X amount of time after the engine is shut off. I currently have it set to 8 minutes, and that appears to be working well. I also have a variable speed controller for my fan, so it only runs as hard as is needed. I’m using this Velleman time delay relay: http://www.vellemanusa.com/products/view/?country=us&lang=enu&id=525830 I have a power relay for the fuel injection circuit, and I use the NC contact of that relay to start the delayed off timer when the ignition is switched off. And I'm using this fan speed controller, with it's own temp sender: http://www.spal-usa.com/fans/automated/accessories/fanpwmV3.html I might still try a 70C thermostat. But I drive the car well into the fall, with temperatures in the 0C to 10C range. Not sure how the engine will like that... Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 Its very simple: put the 72c in during spring and run all summer, come on e the days are reliably below 20c switch back to the 82c unit for the run through the winter (sometimes cardboarding up half the radiator...) It's good to flush coolant at least once and a while as it goes acidic. Gives me plenty of ground squirrel and stray poison... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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