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Fair Price for a 75' 280Z


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Well, I'm kind of a newbie when it comes to Datsun. I have a 75 280Z that I am looking at, but I'm not really sure as to what a fair price would be. The frame rails on the car are solid, but the passenger side rail is crushed. It looks like it was hit with something at some point. The only rust that is on the car that needs more than just being blasted and skim coated would be the bottom rear of the passenger front fender. The car only has 76k on it, but it has been sitting for the last 23 years. I plan on using it as a starting point for an RB25DET swap. Everything else in the car is in pretty good shape. The only problems with the interior are the typical dash cracking and driver's seat being torn up. The car is a 4 speed and runs.

 

Does anyone have any idea as to the actual value of the car? The guy was initially asking 2750, but the first time I talked to him he told me I could have it for 2300. I was thinking something along the lines of 2000, but I just got off the phone and he thinks I shouldn't pay more than 1000 for it. I really have no idea what it is worth, and I would really appriciate some input from people who know about these cars.

 

Thanks,

Jazz

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I paid 2250 for a running, compete rust free 76 in CA.  I did end up replacing

all bushings, springs, shocks and an alternator the first year, which was another $600

 

If the car runs and can both move and stop, then $2300 is not too bad.  If you plan

to immediately disassemble it and replace major components, then you might find a

non-runner for less.  That said it is also largely about our regional market.  I would

not expect to find as many rust free cars in MI and out here in CA, so prices could

reflect that and be higher, or no body in your area covets them and prices could be

lower.  Based on our description, I think the seller is asking a reasonable price, and

seems willing to haggle, but I doubt you'll get it for $1000

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I have had a z for 21 years, paid $900 for it and got ripped off. These cars have NO value. (Ask MiKelly what his is worth). I have spent $30,000 on mine over the years and the WORTH of it hasn't gone up a nickle. Sounds like you are at least $3,000 from having something decent if you do all of it yourself. You just need to decide how much your money is worth and decide whether you want to have a car that is old, out date, smelly, broken half the time, and friggin' awesome. I love mine. It was rough when I was young and broke. A great job has made a lot of difference. But I still alternate between wanting to kiss it and wanting to set it on fire. WORTH? About the same as crack cocaine. And equally unwise. This website is kind of like my AA

Edited by RebekahsZ
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Rebekahsz, that is a very accurate sentiment on this Z addiction . Yes the $$$$$$'s we dish out is only understood by true Z addicts , I have a hate/love type syndrome with my Z. Want to sell one day, next day she gives me a hard one , or gives me smiles, next day I want to sell.........see the picture, but hey she is my other woman. old,smelly( mine does no brake down much ) but she shines and she is friggin' awesomepost-36683-0-94432300-1373770482_thumb.jpg    :icon12:

Edited by PLATA
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It's hard to accurately place value as condition varies so much on these cars. I would say between $2000 and $1500 if it's truly as rust free as you say and it runs.

 

One thing you can do is see what they are going for on Craigslist in your area. But then again you have to look at the cars to compare and pictures aren't enough.

 

I paid $1600 for a '75 and $1200 for a '77 off Craigslist. Both have more rust than you are talking.

 

Has this car been garaged for those 23 years or outside? How close did you look for rust? Did you look under the carpets on the floorboards? They rust from the inside there. Did you look under the battery?

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Now 2300 for intact mostly rust free low miles car in MICHIGAN, is really not a bad price at all.  I paid 600 for my 78' and 450 for my 70' here in Albuquerque, There's a lot of difference, Neither of min ran, the 78' is almost perfect so far as rust goes I have some pitting/bubbling behind the passenger rear tire, but underneath and everywhere else the paint is intact, no bubbling, no surface rust, it's great!  But it is badly faded gold paint, so it's going to be repainted.  No rust is because of GEOGRAPHY.  The desert here averages 5% humidity, so rust takes a really really long time to get going. in Michigan you have humidity, and SALT, both are really bad for metal. so to find a car that's in good shape even with minor rust is great for your area.  That same $2300 car in NY and running could easilly be worth $4K, but here in the desert SW it's probably a sub $1K car. so Geography makes a big difference.  I'd show up with $2000 cash IN 20's and wave it around,  he'll probably take it since cash talks. A stack of 100 $20's look like a lot more than a stack of 20 $100's. 

 

Though read on here where RUST happens on these cars, (battery, tirewell, rear deck, framerails, floorpans) and go from there, decide if this is the car for you. Then decide what you're going to do with it. (RB you said) Once you know that, take your estimates and Double them. Swaps are not cheap, Paint is not cheap, suspension is not cheap. These are 35+ year old cars, they need TLC. so be prepared to spend $5000 to $50,000 on your car, depending on what you want the end product to be.  In retrospect to that, $2000 or $2300 is spare change. Also consider that you're going to need to have it re-undercoated.

 

So I'd say $2300 is fair, of course lower is better.  Offer $1800 and try to settle on $2000.  Really WE WANT Pictures..  Oh! Aa bent frame rail could be worrysome if it's bent sideways, if it's bent from the bottom it's no big deal. You'll be hard pressed to find any that aren't dented from the bottom. they're only 1/8" steel.  Bad Dog rails are an awesome replacement.

 

Let us know if we can help... but you're spending the $ so it's your call.

Edited by Pharaohabq
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