Slow78z Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 I used Current Performance's fuse/relay block and integrated it into the LS1 harness. They have a very easy to understand instruction manual and the wiring matches the colors of the LS1 harness. All necessary relays and fuses are included. While customizing the harness I used a piece of plywood on sawhorses for a table. It helped out quite a bit so as to not get wiring overload. Dos XX also helped. lol. The ECM is mounted behind the glove box and the length of the factory wiring is perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 Man I'm loving this thread, lots of great info! Keith, I'm 40 and 6-2, I am going to fab everything I can on the bench. I don't fit too well under any dash! I've worked with relays before, my wife has a 64 Corvair Convertable that I could not get to idle smoothly no matter how much I messed with the carbs. The solution was to add a relay controlling a 12ga wire tapped off the regulator to the coil, the factory wire just wasn't supplying enough juice at idle. Hooked up the relay, adjusted the carbs once more and it idles smooth as a 50 year old car can. Slow, that fuse/relay looks perfect. I will DIY myself to death but I have to recognize money well spent. That thing looks way easier to instal and 100x more clean than I could ever build it. I will be ordering it today. Even though I haven't been physically working on it this stuff is starting to come together for me. I was typing a long question, while looking at the diagrams I think I answered it. I know the ECM controls the alternator so all the Z regulator stuff can go away and I would assume it would be wise to ditch the fuseable links for large fuses or maybe a circut breaker. So I will have power from the LS alternator/harness, then a large fuse/breaker and then feed power to the new fuse/relay box and the existing Z fuse panel? Does that sound right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zfan1 Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 I am using a PSI LS3 harness plus a Painless wiring harness for the car itself. I am currently wiring up the car for the second time since I have owned it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Which painless harness are you using and does it fit where the stock fuse box was? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slow78z Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Man I'm loving this thread, lots of great info! Keith, I'm 40 and 6-2, I am going to fab everything I can on the bench. I don't fit too well under any dash! I've worked with relays before, my wife has a 64 Corvair Convertable that I could not get to idle smoothly no matter how much I messed with the carbs. The solution was to add a relay controlling a 12ga wire tapped off the regulator to the coil, the factory wire just wasn't supplying enough juice at idle. Hooked up the relay, adjusted the carbs once more and it idles smooth as a 50 year old car can. Slow, that fuse/relay looks perfect. I will DIY myself to death but I have to recognize money well spent. That thing looks way easier to instal and 100x more clean than I could ever build it. I will be ordering it today. Even though I haven't been physically working on it this stuff is starting to come together for me. I was typing a long question, while looking at the diagrams I think I answered it. I know the ECM controls the alternator so all the Z regulator stuff can go away and I would assume it would be wise to ditch the fuseable links for large fuses or maybe a circut breaker. So I will have power from the LS alternator/harness, then a large fuse/breaker and then feed power to the new fuse/relay box and the existing Z fuse panel? Does that sound right? Sounds about right. I used a couple maxi fuse blocks I purchased from Walmart to feed power back to the original z fuse block. Since I like to keep the engine compartment looking clean, both fuse blocks are mounted to a bracket that was fabed to fit behind the heating and air fan housing lower mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 Looks good slow, thats what I had in mind. Can you get to them? I think I have to edit my previous. I think it should be alt, starter, battery and then fuses to the blocks. Does that sound a little better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slow78z Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 (edited) Looks good slow, thats what I had in mind. Can you get to them? I think I have to edit my previous. I think it should be alt, starter, battery and then fuses to the blocks. Does that sound a little better? The fuses are easy to get to. I think i'll need to make a cover to go over them because they sit low enough to get kicked by a passenger with big feet. I don't think it matters what order you go for power distribution. Just as long as you have a good sized wire going from the batt to the starter to cover the amp draw while cranking. Edited July 27, 2013 by Slow78z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 Got my LS harness stripped yesterday morning and started to install it. I mounted the ECM by hanging the factory holder from the inside of the cowl with some 16ga strips that I tacked in. I had to take the white plastic Dat connector bracket off to give me enough room I may mod it some and reuse it if I can If not I'll just secure the factory harness with wire ties. It took about 45 minutes to hook up my starter and crank position connector. My Bussmann micro fuse/relay came in and I started assembling it. I got the bussed model and it made wiring a little easier. I would highly recommend the bussmann and will be using it again. I finished assembling the fuses and relays and got the mains and starter control wired in. I carefully hooked up the battery and tried the starter, I could hear the relays pulling but nothing happened. I haden't hooked up the relay ground buss! I did that and tried again and the motor turned over, that felt pretty good. I'm gonna fire up the coffee pot and get the ecm wired to the dat fuses for the on/run power and the coil feed. I have to ire the fuel pump and finish a little fuel piping and I may be ready to make some noise tomorrow. Oh I may have to clean up the wiring a little ( see pic below)/ 2013-08-03_16-59-50_455.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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