Complete floor/subframe/firewall transplant to pre-smog Datsun

[ThreeDeadZs]

 Have the CHP Assign one...I wouldn't use either of the donor vehicle VIN's... Doing so without the other parts reported, and the presence of a conflicting VIN...recipe for a very bad day!

 

Ouch!  Thank you Tony for the reality check, I guess.  Sorry but I don't know what CVC stands for.  However, what you wrote in this quote sounds very interesting.  I suppose I could complete the non-engine combination (using the original shell's correct engine & smog equipment) so my potential of mis-matched VIN's on undercarriage body panels or wherever don't cause a violation.  (showing proof of ownership of both vehicles, I'm sure)  Because I did research kit cars, modified cars, and such, and the DMV makes it perfectly clear that swapping a lot of equipment, as long as it isn't smog related or make the car unrecognizable as it's actual model, is perfectly legal.  Yet, especially on newer parts, VIN numbers are everywhere.  But on the L28 engine you used as an example in a 240Z, there's merely a model number (L28) and a serial number, no VIN.  So what does that mean related to this CVC, and suppose I did your example: am I able to legitimately comply with these requirements without having to change to EFI and the newer engine's smog laws?   And what about an engine that never came to the USA?  I mean specifically the SR20DET, RB26DETT, CA18DET. 

 

A question of a different sort: suppose I keep the correct block for the smog exempt car, and modify the hell out of it with custom equipment, different head, turbo, custom piping, custom intake manifold, and whatever, maybe EFI; yet maintain whatever requirements they might have for the year... EVAP compliance, EGR, PCV, and not sure what all.  Is there a way to do that so it complies with the law?

 

Also, when they checked your VIN those four times, did they merely check the dash vin and maybe engine-bay firewall VIN, maybe doorjam?  Or did they look for every VIN number they could find on parts throughout the body?  I'm all for catching thieves, but what you've described doesn't seem to serve theft recovery or SMOG.  You also mentioned the "VIN" on the engine, which only began more recently.  As I say, my 97 Acura has a VIN plate on the transmission 1/2" from the engine.  So if I swap transmissions, who would I have to report that to?

 

BTW: you seem to have some sort of inside scoop on this... "Having worked task force where cars are impounded daily...."  May I ask more about that?

 

I asked you a lot, answer by post or PM for that which doesn't benefit the forum.

[zilverbullet77]

I don't mean to hijack an old thread but I am looking for an answer to a very similar question.

 

I have searched this site and the web for someone doing a complete 240z body/full frame swap with no luck. I am only researching this because my body man (owns and builds old skool rat rods for a living) put the idea in my head. He seems to think it can be done with the right frame.

I have done some research and have found that a Chevy S10 is only a few inches wider and a little over a foot longer than a 240Z. The frame could easily be cut down to get the wheelbase correct and the width I don't think would be enough to cause problems. Especially since I am going to be installing a V8 and if I went this route would want to install a narrowed rearend anyway.

 

My question is, why don't I see anyone attempting this? is it weight? or just a bad idea?

 

One reason I would consider this is because I have owned and built two V8 S-10's and they were pretty easy swaps and a blast to drive. Another reason is because I believe doing this would give me a stronger chassis and also updated suspension and brakes. I also have access to numerous S-10's as a buddy of mine has a towing/wrecking yard.

 

I am looking to build a fun, reliable, cruise night/weekend cruiser. My 240Z is currently completely apart. I just had the body sandblasted and am currently doing rust repair. My floors are completely cut out as well as the frame rails.

 

This is the time that I need to make a decision on what direction I am going. Another thing to keep in mind, I have a 280Z parts car with complete suspension including the R200 rear. So, basically I am ready to go in either direction.

 

Let me know your thoughts, Thanks.

[johnc]

Weight, the work involved, and the resulting car will be less stiff then a reinforced S30 chassis without the old style ladder frame from the S10.  Search this site and read.  There are at least a couple dozen 10 second or quicker S30s built here that do not use a pickup truck frame.

[ThreeDeadZs]

John's right, and a professional.  So I'll give you a "layman's" answer since I first toyed with that exact idea >25 years ago (Nissan/Toyota pickup instead of S10):

 

Any pickup ladder frame is strong.  It won't break because it is designed to bend. I'll bet your V8 S10's were fun... drifting an empty rear end.  If that's what you want to do, maybe a Vega or Monza body might be appropriate for brand consistency. It also wastes a lot of space.  It won't be torsionally rigid, so will handle like... a pickup truck!

 

Get a fabricator to build you a full cage for your 240Z to carry torsional strength, or as John (a fabricator!) suggests, stick with the unibody.  Seam welds, weak points to improve, etc, are all covered elsewhere on this site.; or just hire a fabricator.  But assuming that (like me) you are pinching pennies and wishing to build something unique... well, I haven't found the combination yet.  The closest I've come up with so far, with the help of a local Miata/BMW fabricator and circuit racer for ideas, is to CAD design a pair of tubes that attach the unibody to subframes of your choice (with easy connection points, which is the only reason I've considered Mazda) and get a machine shop to build them, then take them to the fabricator to build... a reinforced unibody!  Really, it's nearly back where it started.  I watch this thread hoping for a magic solution.

 

For the sake of the thread:

I did learn that Miata MX-5 subframes work well with a longer wheelbase, making the car more stable, and fine tune by changing front/rear wheel offsets.  Later RX8/Miatas use multi-link rear ends, so not likely to be as easy to adapt.

Edited December 15, 2014 by ThreeDeadZs

[RebekahsZ]

I have both a V8 240z and a V8 S10, both LS-equipped.  Except for the lack of heat and airconditioning, the only thing I would rather do with my S10 instead of the Z is haul cow manure.  The Z drives SO much better with the suspension system that God put in it.  I may back-half a Z someday to improve the durability of the rearend, but there is no reason at all to change the front suspension, unless you plan to use a 4X4 chassis for the 4-wheel drive.  And, the V8 fits between my Z's strut towers so much better than the V8 fits between my upper A-frames on the S10.  Now, if you just want to do it cause you want to, go for it!

[zilverbullet77]

Thanks johnc, ThreeDeadZs and RebekahsZ! You guys gave me all the advice I need to continue rebuilding and upgrading my stock suspension.