rayaapp2 Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 I know the subject has been BEAT to death here and all over the internet. Ive done some searching. The answer is get one of the conversion flywheels I know. What has not been covered or at least I havent found the answer is WHY? Single verses 2 piece rear main seals are the issue. Is it a clearance issue? The Crank shafts are interchangeable as per my research so I have my doubts that its a crank issue. So the main seal area has to be a clearance fitment issue... Im just really curious why no one just mills out the back of a stock flywheel to get the required clearance if thats what the deal is? All I have read is that it doesnt work... I just want to be sure before I shell out $400 for a flywheel. Im tempted to spend the $40 for the flywheel and clutch out of a car at PNP and just chalk that $40 up to research. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 Counter weight issue. Two piece cranks have a counterweight on the flywheel flange. The one piece crank is perfectly round and the flywheel is not zero balanced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay260z Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 i have one for sell if your intrested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 I went and got the flywheel. I see. My research was wrong! The cranks DO NOT interchange. Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 A few notes: 1. The old starter for the early block is incorrect for the flywheel/bell housing for the LT1 T56 2. The 4L60E driveshaft is correct if you already had that in the car! 3. The transmission cross member is wrong... it will not fit the lt1 t56. The T56 mount sits approx 4" farther back. 4. Hooker headers/slave cylinder fitment issue for the scarab/hooker sbc kit 5. hooker/scarab kits will also have to modify the shifter location or it will hit the console in all forward gears 1, 3, & 5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay260z Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 looks good in there the drivers side exhaust was a tight fit on my car too to get it around the clutch slave cylinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 (edited) My pictures are about to go down as my bandwidth at photobucket is almost used up. I think they will come back on the 14th or 16th. I have some more pictures of the "K" member Im building for the transmission mount. I decided a simple loop wasnt strong enough and to add 2 re-enforcement mounts. I figure 4 is better than 2 anyway, and I dont trust 240z/early 260z floor pans or tunnels to hold up very well outside of the re-enforced area even with some extra plates... My RB25det car was mounted that way. I had to tie the cross member to the re-enforced frame rails or the floor would experience the oiling can effect during pulls even with backing plates. Nov 5th Its driving! I like the 6spd a lot! Edited November 5, 2013 by rayaapp2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 So Im having a small issue. There is a Reverse Lockout Solenoid. It makes it a royal pain to shift into Reverse! Like major pain! My problem is that I have no idea how it functions. Im going to do some testing and see where that gets me. Research tells me it locks Reverse out over 3mph. So I will apply and remove power and see if what happens I suppose. I dont know if powering it up will un-lock it or lock it out. Then there is the mystery of how I should wire it up. I was thinking of tying it into the brake circuit with a relay, but that could be a pain as I dont always use the brake when shifting into reverse. There isnt anything else I can come up with that would allow me to keep though. And if I remove it there is nothing to protect Reverse from an accidental grinding. Then I realize there is a second solenoid on the transmission... I have no idea what its purpose is. You guys got any thoughts on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 So Im having a small issue. There is a Reverse Lockout Solenoid. It makes it a royal pain to shift into Reverse! Like major pain! My problem is that I have no idea how it functions. Im going to do some testing and see where that gets me. Research tells me it locks Reverse out over 3mph. So I will apply and remove power and see if what happens I suppose. I dont know if powering it up will un-lock it or lock it out. Then there is the mystery of how I should wire it up. I was thinking of tying it into the brake circuit with a relay, but that could be a pain as I dont always use the brake when shifting into reverse. There isnt anything else I can come up with that would allow me to keep though. And if I remove it there is nothing to protect Reverse from an accidental grinding. Then I realize there is a second solenoid on the transmission... I have no idea what its purpose is. You guys got any thoughts on this? Without power on the Reverse Lockout Solenoid, you should be able to shift directly into Reverse. My LT-1 T56 does this just fine without connections to the solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 I figured it out. The detent spring had way to much pre-load. I powered up the solenoid and it was full lockout. So with nothing to loose and forced with getting a modified spring I just decided to hit the old one with a butane torch... It worked great and now I can shift into reverse without any issues. The other solenoid is a skip shift I guess. So Im not using either. I need to go to the exhaust shop and have my Y pipe modified and Im done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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