LUISB310 Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 This is my first time posting, I just started doing my swap int my 240z, got a good deal on a RB25 motor, trans harness and computer so i decided to put it in my z. I will post some pictures on my progress, im working on my spare time so my progress is slow , Im doing all of the work myself so any imput from experience swappers is apreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUISB310 Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share Posted November 5, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
900ss Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Keep up the good work as the results are well worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUISB310 Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 Modified crossmember for universal engine mounts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUISB310 Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 RB rear sump pan cut the flange and flipped it and welded back up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat1 Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Watch out when you rotate the pan like that the angle of the pan is in the wrong side. When the engine is in the car the left side of the engine sits 1.0-1.5 inches lower than the right. When you swap the pan like that the angle is on the opposite side. When the angle is on the opposite side there isn't enough oil around the pickup at all times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUISB310 Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 Thanks for the input, I extended the oil pickup tube to the deeper side of th pan hoping it will be ok , once is running I will definitely keep an eye on the pressure , I just wanted to save som bucks versus buying a new pan wich are pretty expensive for me. I'm trying to do this the cheapest possible way that I can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUISB310 Posted December 7, 2013 Author Share Posted December 7, 2013 Just finished the wiring , it fired right up also replaced the intake manifold with a greedy style manifold .Finally got all the stock gauges to work , the tach was a little confusing at first but after all it was pretty easy to wire it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUISB310 Posted December 7, 2013 Author Share Posted December 7, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrcbonk Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 I was never able to figure out the wiring solution to use the factoy tach. I have a 71 s30. How did you get it working? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUISB310 Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 I GOT IT TO WORK BY USING THE ORIGINAL BLACK WHITE WIRE THAT WENT TO THE COIL + ON 2.4 I USED IT TO SUPPLY THE POWER TO ONE OF THE RELAY TWINS THAT SUPPLY POWER TO THE RB COILS , I WILL DRAW UP A DIAGRAM IF YOU NEED IT, IM VERRY POOR AS TO KEEPING A RECORD OF WHAT I DO BUT I CAN ALWAYS GO BACK BECAUSE I USALLY DO ALL MY WORK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZachDaaron Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 so you found a way to use the stock gauges to work on the RB? please upload the diagram and instructions, this will save me a lot of time and money. nice DIY by the way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatDude Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Yeah, I also would like to know about those gauges fellas. Still putting my car together, but that will come up eventually. Thanks, Carter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUISB310 Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 Here is a diagram , I hope is understandable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p1nky Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Can you post more details about crossmember and universal engine mounts ? Please. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUISB310 Posted April 3, 2014 Author Share Posted April 3, 2014 Unfortunately I just sold the car , I'm moving out of the state and I couldn't take the car with me . The mounts are from speedway , they are bolt throug design , they're about 20 dollars for the pair , the cross member was removed and the original stock mounting pads were cut flush , then I got 2 inch metal from Home Depot 1/8 thick , the angle of the stock mounts an the universal mounts is different . I measured the engine and trans so that my shifter would come out on the center of the stock shifter hole and it turns out that the new location is a little further back . About 2 inches from the original pads . First you drill the rb25 to the larger bolt opening and install the mount , then cut 2 prices off the metal stock , I think it was around 3.5 inches, drill the hole in the center for the bushing to mount and install on both mounts . I had my engine on the stand flipped upside down Then place the cross member over the engine and measure your side pieces so that it'll clear the oil pan , with the engine centered tack weld the metal to you're cross member , and box it in with the rest off the metal , I know it's not very scientific , but it fits like it was ment to go In there . The transmission cross member is the stock 240 , just loweed a little , about 1 inch in the stock location I didn't take a lot off pictures to help visualize what I did and I don't have the car any more to take pictures of it , I jope I can help in any way that I can but without pictures is harder to explain It probably cost about 35 bucks to do the mounts and I Liked the end results , verry sturdy , held the engine in place good , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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