ZachDaaron

sorry, ive been busy with a lot of stuff. so the sliders fit great and have plenty of real estate for whatever seat you will ever want to run. without having to modify the seats. am now just waiting until i put in new chassis seat mounts. ill update when the seats are in

i have one, pm if interested

i have the same harness you have but what i noticed in the instructions is that it says "if you have spec 1 use this connector, if you have spec 2 use the other one. then to tape off the unused connector." so yes, they are correct the harness will "work", but that is only because they have both sets of plugs lol

i have a heater core out of my 77' ready to go, just pm if interested

don't the series 1 and 2 have different ECU's? so if you were to swap you would need to get the matching ECU? "The most obvious change to the system was the introduction of ignition coils with built in ignitors, therefore the coil ignitor that was on previous models was not used. Other changes were, different air flow meter, engine ECU, cam angle sensor and throttle position sensor. Mechanically Series 1 and Series 2 are very similar, the only mechanical difference would be thecamshafts as the Series 2 Cam Angle Sensor's shaft that goes into the exhaust cam is slightly different. This is very important not to mistake! (early Series 2 featured the traditional Mitsubishi CAS which was later swapped for the Black CAS because of a positioning tooth which occasionally broke off)" --source Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_RB_engine#RB25

i have an oem wood 4spd one from my 280z

For $100 EBB will fix the angle and extend the inlet. I want to keep the chassis as oem as possible

if you used a credit card to pay paypal you can dispute it through them or your bank account. i had to do that over a year and a half after payment and getting promised i was going to get my stuff

Ok have them half way installed, i will need to drill two holes for the rear seat bolts and weld on nuts to make mounting the seats to the chassis easier but all that is simple stuff. I'll update with photos when I get back from vacation.

yea it is kinda weird, but its ok. my friend does some amazing welding, here is a taste of his aluminum skills

nope, mckinney mounts w/ a no-name intake. i contacted mckinney and asked about them and they said you have to modify the intake angle with the mounts i have because they designed the mounts to move the engine as far back into the engine bay as possible to create room for the radiator and anything else you would need to put in the front of the bay.

i have the adapter but the problem i am facing is that the intake is too close to the strut tower so there is not enough clearance for the throttle body. im going to send the intake to my friend at EBB to have him modify and weld it up all sexy.

i think i have a problem... i seem to be collecting seats...

i believe my old engine/tranny is at my friends house and he is currently TDY at the moment, but if he still has it you could probably pick it up towards the end of the month.

according to the maintenance manual it plugs into a plug on wiper combination switch. but this is also for the 77' 280z, it might be different on yours since you didnt mention what year or model its for.

OK, so if any of you have done a seat swap on a 240,260, or 280z you have probably ran into the problem with the seat slider locking mechanism getting in the way of the rails mounting flush to the seat frame.. Yes, you could always notch/bash in the seat frame/pan but depending, doing that could also compromise the stability and safety of the seat as well as the value if you have a pair of sexy JDM Recaros. Another thing I've seen is putting spacers between the sliders and the seat, but then if you are a tall person (I'm 6'2") you risk having no head clearance from the headliner. I have found a new option (on the cheap) that gives you the flexibility to mount the seats however you want, whether that is in the OEM location, or fabricating up your own mounting points. I am currently waiting for the rails to arrive in the mail, but I will keep this thread updated with results, issues, and pictures. The sliders I will be using are out of an 02' jeep wrangler (the sliders are the same from 76'-02) and can be found on ebay for around $36 for 2 sets of rails. The sliders for the seats are very simple and give you the space to drill new holes, wherever needed, to fit your seat. The other great part about the sliders is that unlike the datsun sliders, these do not have the protruding mounting tabs, so you can either swap the ones from the old sliders or make your own mounting points (lowering the seats) I will be making my own mounting points since the seats I'm using will cause my head to touch the headliner. The seats are Recaro Trophy seats i found on craigslist BTW This is all the information I have for now, but the new sliders should be here by next week and then I'll start adding pictures and such.

i might have access to one, im in kc area

I have this as well lol sent you a pm

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are you in need of the trans mount? if so i have one that came with my transmission id sell you.

I am in need of a radiator for my RB25det. It doesn't need to be perfect but I wouldn't complain if someone has a new one lol.

I bought a wiring specialties "complete" harness and I have connected almost everything up, but I have run into a wall and it seems that there are very few threads mentioning using the wiring specialties harness. My main over-all concern is the stock rb25det lower wire harness doesn't plug into the new wiring specialties harness and before I go and start removing wires from it, I wanted to be sure that the only wires I will need from it will be the alternator and starter power wires. The wiring specialties harness does have some of the plugs that are on the lower harness such as alternator signal, oil press, and knock sensors, but does not include transmission speed, neutral, and reverse sensors, alternator power, or starter and starter solenoid power. The RB25det transmission has 3 plugs on it; speed, neutral, and reverse and I know the speed sensor wont be used since our speedos are mechanical, but as far as neutral and reverse I am not sure if they would need to be used. the reverse would control the reverse lights so that will probably need sliced into the Z harness?

There have got to be? Honestly I'm not sure.. but the part number was oem usdm and it didnt fit though it was made for the rb25det. But never the less I Just want to see who would want one if I made them.

Like most of us have done, or are looking to do, I have been trying to find the best way to replace the bulky oil cooler for my RB25det. yes you could buy the Greddy kit, or one of the "universal" kits but you would still have to buy the Rawbrokerage thread adapter.. The problem with these kits is that standard screw-on sandwich plates leak, and you are STILL left with the unattractive appearance of poorly fitting universal parts. See below: I have designed a one of a kind sandwich plate based off the SR20 style plate which bolts onto the block. my design will let you use the original oil bung from under the OEM oil cooler. This means all you will have to do is remove the 4 bolts from the oil cooler, and bolt this plate in its place! ( I've heard rumors that the SR20 plate bolts on, but I have not seen any actually installed and it still will not look like it fits correctly) PLUS!!! THIS ONE WILL COST ALMOST HALF AS MUCH! (about $60) I have read over the forum rules so I know I cant request money to help build a product that doesn't physically exist yet, but i dont need help! It will not cost me much at all to make these so I can foot the bill for fabrication costs. All I need is to see if anyone else actually wants one? NOTE: This design is based off of my JDM RB25det block and cooler which has slightly different mounting points and will not fit USDM blocks. Once i have a finished working part, I will make the one for the USDM block. I found this out after ordering the USDM gasket for under the oil cooler off ebay and it didn't fit..

No doubt not all of their parts are the same, but it is just odd that a reputable company like McKinney would sell the same part as CRXracing but i suppose ignorance is bliss.