geno51 Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 (edited) Speaking of Hawks!!! My kit showed up today This looks like some high quality parts Kit is very well put together CLICK ON THE PICTURE FOR A BLOWN UP IMAGE Edited March 19, 2014 by geno51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 I think you will like working with those standard Chevy mounts. The JCI kit uses one of those and you can get to the bolts easily to loosen them up. The JCI kit uses an LS1 "clamshell" mount on the drivers side. I hate it. It is hard to get to the bolts to loosen in order to get a little slop in it when dropping the tranny or if just trying to get the bolts lined up. I like that Hawk's tranny mount better too. But, with it being weld in, you wanna get that crossmember in the right place on the first time! I would definitely only spot weld it until you have installed and pulled the engine a few times to be sure it is right before you weld it up solidly. And the clearance bend in the motor mount looks terrible in that photo-it probably looks better from a different angle. Pros and cons to everything. We are all super anxious to see how it goes, espcially with the headers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geno51 Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 (edited) I think you will like working with those standard Chevy mounts. The JCI kit uses one of those and you can get to the bolts easily to loosen them up. The JCI kit uses an LS1 "clamshell" mount on the drivers side. I hate it. It is hard to get to the bolts to loosen in order to get a little slop in it when dropping the tranny or if just trying to get the bolts lined up. I like that Hawk's tranny mount better too. But, with it being weld in, you wanna get that crossmember in the right place on the first time! I would definitely only spot weld it until you have installed and pulled the engine a few times to be sure it is right before you weld it up solidly. And the clearance bend in the motor mount looks terrible in that photo-it probably looks better from a different angle. Pros and cons to everything. We are all super anxious to see how it goes, espcially with the headers. Here are some better picks of the clearance part of the mount I will say that it feels super strong the bent part feels to be solid rod stock. IT does look better in person. ONLY BAD NEWS. No headers this will be twins I do wish bruce would do a full write up on using this mount but I will do my best to document the install. For future users Edited March 19, 2014 by geno51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Or you could weld plates on the ends of the trans mount and make it bolt it. I'm not sure if it matters if it bolts in 2 places. I think a combination mount between the 2 would be better than either. Weld that into a single piece to where it unbolts from the frame rails all in 1 piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zjake Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 That trans crossmember is a little more work but will be well worth it especially in a turbo application where tying the rails together is critical. Much better than bolting to the floor since a kot of the S30 cars r rusty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 In my case the drysump required some mount option that would clear the pump and alternator location options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistafosta Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 I'm going to start using these mounts for my new turbo setup http://randyellisdesign.com/?wpsc-product=110-diy-caged-bushing-tubular-race-motor-mount-kit-duplicate-2. I've already re-enforced my frame rails with box steel so the welding need for these is no big deal. You can also put solid or poly mounts in this as well. I was happy with the JCI mounts I have been using for the last 5+ years. The header issues that came with the JCI mounts was a bit of a headache (Shorties on a 800+hp LS engine are no bueno), but it worked for what I needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torqen2k1 Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Speaking of Hawks!!! My kit showed up today This looks like some high quality parts Kit is very well put together CLICK ON THE PICTURE FOR A BLOWN UP IMAGE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torqen2k1 Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Is the hawk's a bolt in kit?, or a weld in kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zjake Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 it is more of a weld n kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bejbis Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 I have a hard time understanding what the lower part of the engine mount connects to? could anyone clear this up for me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zjake Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 You simply remove your lower control arm nut and it then threads into. The lower portion of the mount. Very clean and simple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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