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How to tighten front pulley with engine in car?


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

To make a long story short, the front pulley nut and washer came off my car and now I need to tighten it back up. The spec I have says it needs to be tightened to 100 ft/lb which is quite a bit. Since the engine is in the car and putting it in gear with the brakes on doesn't offer enough leverage, how do I tighten this bolt?

 

If you want to know why the pulley nut came off it's because I was using a socket to turn the engine over. When I finally started the engine I quickly realized I had forgotten to take the socket off the pulley and before I could say #!@# the nut and washer were rolling on the ground. Since my car is so low, the socket wrench can hit the ground when fitted to the pulley and with the engine turning it was able to undue itself with amazing speed. This was my boo boo for the week, but at least it's not a FUBAR mistake. :D

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Sounds like your clutch might be slipping a bit. I've always been able to tighten that nut with the trans in 4th and someone sitting in the car with their foot on the brake. You might try removing the starter and wedging a pry bar against the ring gear.

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Guest Anonymous

Take the valve cover off and wedge a tire iron in one of the cam sprocket holes against the cylinder head to lock the crankshaft in place. Been doing this for years without mishap.

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Don't forget to use some thread locker as well. I had a problem with a crankshaft bolt coming out repeatedly after a similar incident. After losing the pulley and all while driving ~45 mph, I decided thread locker was the only way to go!!!

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Guest Anonymous

Pulling the starter and jamming the flywheel was going to be my next approach. Nice to see there are so many different ways to kill this cat though. smile.gif

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It also helps to get at the bolt from underneath too. That is how I tightened mine up.

 

I would be scared to do the head deal. But thats me.

 

And do use the threadlocker. A loose front pulley causes that keyway deal to hog out the slot in the crank, and that is not good. I had one welded up and redone, but it just did not work as good as good old Nissan forged crank material.

 

You should also notice some stumbling when the thing is loose. My car always misbehaved when my pulley was loose.

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Guest norm[T12SDSUD]

I used to have the same problem with the crankshaft bolt ,but I read in the Nissan race book to torque it to 150 ft lbs. and use red loctite.After doing that it's at least one area I haven't had issues with in the last 4 years.

 

My newfound flaw of late has been breaking the curved timing chain guide or having the bolt shear off.

My Nissan race book also recomended upgrading to an 8 mm bolt form the stock 6 mm bolt on the curved guide and I have just completed this little mod.

 

There's always seems to be a weak link somewhere waiting to rear it's ugly little head!!!

 

Later,norm

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Guest norm[T12SDSUD]

There are actually two good books and taken together they cover about everything you want to know.

 

"How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine"

By Frank Honsowetz

 

And

 

"How to HOTROD & RACE YOUR DATSUN" by Bob Waar

 

Later,norm

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