JMortensen Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 I've got some motor mounts and put them on the motor and put it in the car. When I was test fitting the motor alone, I figured it would be level and I could see that there was going to be a real issue with the bell housing bolts and the firewall, so I took a hammer to the firewall for clearance and then I bolted the trans up and dropped the whole thing in. Looks like with the trans jammed up against the top of the tunnel I still have a bit of a lean back to the motor. The question really is, does it matter??? Anyone know? Thinking driveshaft angles more than anything here... Also anyone have an opinion on this shifter placement? This is a 70 so the hole is in a different spot. Looks serviceable, just wondering if this is typical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 IIRC mine leans back a bit. I'd just center the trans in the car, and put it as high as it will go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 2-5 degrees is normal level isn't good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Think about opening up the shifter hole so you can replace your shifter without dropping the tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 Looks like I'm at about 1.7 degrees, but I'll need to drop it down to have a bit of clearance between the tunnel and the trans, so hopefully I'll be in good shape. I know this one has an upgraded shifter in it already. Can't remember what kind. Is it all that likely that I'd need to replace the shifter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Only of something new comes out and ya just gotta have it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 (edited) Looks like I'm at about 1.7 degrees, but I'll need to drop it down to have a bit of clearance between the tunnel and the trans, so hopefully I'll be in good shape. I know this one has an upgraded shifter in it already. Can't remember what kind. Is it all that likely that I'd need to replace the shifter? You'll have a hard time filling the transmission in the car without taking off the shifter ... Or you can just fill it on the ground, and risk making a big mess and not knowing how much to add when you install it! Speaking from experience! Edited December 3, 2013 by SUNNY Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 Ah. Good to know. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 I never thought of using the shifter well to add oil! Good to know. I guess to know when tranny is full, you remove the fill plug and get a buddy to tell you when it is spilling over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 So other people with 240Zs also have the trans hanging down below the frame rails? Just hadn't heard that as an issue. I think the mounts I have are a bit high on the motor in front (this was done to protect the oil pan, so I think that I could make more clearance in the tunnel and lift it up for ground clearance, which would make my aero plans easier. Was thinking about the lean issue and I think it doesn't make much difference. Your motor leans all over the place when you drive on the road via hills, road crown and camber, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 IDK-I used JCI kit so I wouldn't have to figure that stuff out and it has worked out fine. From the look of how close your shifter is to the hole in the tunnel, it looks like all is well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 IDK-I used JCI kit so I wouldn't have to figure that stuff out and it has worked out fine. From the look of how close your shifter is to the hole in the tunnel, it looks like all is well. Can you have a peak under your car and see if the trans hangs down below the frame rails? I'd appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 The angle is importent. You have to phase the trans yoke with the diff yoke. If you don't you will enjoy wonderful vibrations and the occasional driveshaft replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the ability to adjust one angle is all you need, whether it's the pinion or the trans doesn't matter. I have the RT diff mount, so I'm covered there. Anyone else want to pop their head under their 240 LS/T56 setup and tell me if the trans hangs down below the frame rails? I know this isn't usually an issue, but since I'm doing side pipes I'm actually concerned about clearances here. Going to be a LOW autox car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Do it how you like but my usually process is to set the engine and trans where I need it depending on the vehicle. Then setup my rear suspension to match. Also set your engine at ride height or at least know the rake angle of the vehicle so you can get your engine angle correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 (edited) OK. Cell phone is dead or I would have tried to send pictures-too much hybridz.org during the work day. But, in my 1972 240z with stock "frame rails:" The front of the bellhousing is level with the bottom of the F-body Camaro engine oilpan. The oilpan angles slightly up going as you trace back toward the back of the car. The junction of the oilpan and bellhousing are about 2" below the frame rails, 1-1/4' below the front crossmember. The transmission narrows as it heads back and is fully inside the tunnel. The transmission widens a bit at the junction of the gearbox to the tailhousing. At that junction, the transmission is level with the bottom of the frame rails, or perhaps less than an inch up from the bottom of the frame rails (exhaust makes it hard to be super accurate). With the exception of the junction of the bellhousing to the oil pan and the junction of the gearbox to the tailhousing, the transmission is fully up inside the trunnel. I did not hammer in the tunnel where the tunnel meets the firewall. I had the car all the way up on jackstands and let the diveshaft seal scrape the gound and I had to be carefull not to crack the intake manifold on the hood latch bracket because the angle of insertion (that sounds creepy) was so steep to get the motor in. I did manage to break off the hood prop holder on the radiator support with the front of the oilpan in the process. After the 10th or 12th time, I got pretty good at installing the engine. It was super tough with poly motor mounts on the last try. Not looking forward to getting the long F-body engine mount bolt on the driver side back out-I had to hammer it in. Next time motor is out, I plan to ream that hole out a bit to make that easier-tolerances are too tight there. Hope that helps. Oh yeah, I had to remove all of my shifter to clear the brake lines on the firewall-it was that tight. Then, I reinstalled my shifter thru the stock shifter hole. One bolt is kind of touch to get a good angle on. The front u-joint on the driveshaft is very close to the cigarette lighter well in the tranny tunnel. Think about that clearance before you lock everything down. Tight clearances in the 240z tunnel limited me to a 3" driveshaft, whereas SunnyZ was able to fit a 3.5" in the 280z tunnel which is much wider. I filled my tranny before installing the engine and plugged the driveshaft end of the tranny with a spare slip yoke that I have-get a good one or you will break it later-the standard cast JCI yoke is not up to the rigors of regular race duty (I've broken two of them and now run a hardened billet slip yoke). I put a wire thru it to tie it to the holes in the tranny under the shifter so that it wouldn't slide out and dump oil on the floor. Then I quickly swapped in the driveshaft and didn't spill a drop. Hope that helps. Edited December 4, 2013 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 Thanks guys. I think I'm going to do what I need to do to get the trans up in the tunnel as this will allow me to get the car lower to the ground when it's all said and done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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