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2jz mounts


JacobsZ

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Avernier: Really? No vibrations? Or is it just an acceptable amount? I am really quite curious, I mulled it over for a bit, but having been in some polyurethane mounted cars I decided against it. I'm a big fan of hard mounting, especially for launches and motion transfer perspective, but usually the vibrations end up driving me nuts.

 

Did you have to hardmount the rest of the driveline as well? And by your own cross member, do you mean that you just forgo the factory cross member and put a new cross member further down stream? Or do you mean like the betamotorsports crossmember where it goes on top of the existing crossmember? Always nice to see different perspectives.

Edited by seattlejester
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i honestly sit in my car at idle, and get no buzzing, no moving visors, maybe a very faint buss feeling, but i've never had anyone say man, this must be solid mounted. people are generally very surprised how smooth it is. inline sixes are naturally smooth running, but the jz is exceptional. the crossmember i make bolts about 4-6inches back from the factory crossmember. angle iron and dom tubing is all it is. super simple to make.

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Regarding price, for what it is, it actually isn't too bad for a swap kit.

 

Explanation below just for explanations sake, not trying to belittle you or anything, just putting out general related information. If you choose to skip, the bottom paragraph addresses your question.

 

To make a similar driveshaft it would cost ~500$. 

 

The shifter extension service goes for 225$

 

So the mounts themselves cost ~775$

 

That cross member is on the harder side of making the mounts, from what I can tell it ties in with the TC mounts and mounts to the where the stock crossmember mounts is on the Z chassis. This gives the most support you could get without welding the mounts. Add on top of that they centered the main mount to clear for the sump shows that some test fitting was done so that they know everything should clear. 

 

Depending on thickness of the material that would probably be a good 50-100$ in steel. With 28+ holes/slots drilled/milled, pieces cut, welded together, and painted that's a good couple of hours of work. At fab shop rates of 1$ a minute per weld/1$ an inch per weld and general shop rate of 80-120$ an hour, that can be a good 500$ in labor for a one off crossmember.

 

All in all, they are making a few hundred $ on the kit, (savings from buying bulk steel, and having a large run done at the shop or done in house). In the spectrum of things they aren't gouging anyone as long as the kit delivers.

 

With that said...

 

The main problems I have with the kit, is the transmission mount. It does not look like they supply a way to mate that mount with the chassis. For the later 240z-280z the transmission mounts in the tunnel have to be removed or at least shaved pretty extensively to make room for the R154 which is the transmission they indicate their kit is for. The only chassis that perhaps those bolt holes could align with on the mount are the 70- early 72 chassis with the captive nut style transmission tunnel mount. 

 

So unless their whole kit isn't pictured, it feels like the plan is to inform the customer to figure out that portion by themselves. Which is kind of unfortunate for a real swap kit.

 

 

So on the flip side are the cheaper options. Like the 240sx kits you are referencing.

 

From the ones I have seen they are basically just the engine mounts, not a swap kit. Everything dealing with the transmission, how it will be mounted, what transmission will be used etc will be left to the customer. 

 

The cheapest being ARZ style mounts that mount towards the front of the motor to the stock datsun crossmember and push the driveline as far back to the firewall as possible. Each mount requires 6 holes, so 12 holes total, and you can buy "new" 240z mounts for ~30$. The fabrication with a jig is fairly easy, and as long as the first mounts the jig is made out of is correct it should be a very good fit, or the holes can be milled into slots to allow for some adjustment in differing chassis. Something of this nature would go for a good $200-300 depending on stamping versus welding, and thickness etc. Downside would be that you are stretching the mounting balance of the engine, so the transmission mount would have to be hefty and such. Think about it like a push up. With your arms up by your shoulder, it is going to put a different stress then if you had your arms right next to your stomach. I'm not sure what kind of problems that may cause, but the few reports of those kind of mounts I've heard back from I am not seeing anything negative. An alternative down side would be that you could not just leave the engine in if you wanted to take just the transmission out, since the front of the engine is supported, it would tilt pretty far back without the support of the transmission and lean against the firewall. 

 

The next option is to make a tubed cross member as betamotorsports used to make or avernier suggests, that sits on the datsun engine bay frame rail. This would fetch easily $500 or so depending on the seriousness of the cross member, the thickness of the tube, etc. The unfortunate portion of this mod is that it will either require bedding pillars and such if you wanted to bolt the cross member to the chassis, but the more accepted method would be to weld the cross members in place. The benefit would be that you could use the stock 2jz motor mounts and you have additional chassis bracing, and the engine would be supported in a traditional matter.

 

 

So long story short, 1500 actually isn't too bad for a full swap kit with transmission extension, correct length drive shaft, prefabricated parts, bolt on capability, and "transmission brace". It would be a downright bargain if they supplied /came up with the receiving end of the transmission brace, which would mean you wouldn't have to visit a welder at all, and you could put your car back to stock if for whatever reason you chose to do so down the road.

 

To answer your question: Badjuju and I haven't started on his 2jz swap yet. I am focused on getting my 7m swap finished, and he is working on intake and exhaust manifolds, so we don't have any pictures of the 2jz mounts. But his transmission and driveshaft are squared away, so when the time comes getting the motor in and centered shouldn't be all too long of a process.

Edited by seattlejester
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