TonyB Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 I was checking things out with my old ECCS analyzer. I had it all plugged up with my ecu and didnt notice what the dial was on, and I started the car. A clunk noise could be heard periodically while idling. I unhooked everything and put it back to normal. Luckily it started and ran fine afterword. Now few hours later, when I out the key to the ON position it cranks the engine and doesnt stop. Any idea wtf is going on? What did I break... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 Something wrong with the ignition switch or starter solenoid? May have just happened to fail coincidentally when you had the ECCS hooked up. The ECU doesn't control the starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted December 15, 2013 Author Share Posted December 15, 2013 I forgot to mention the PO put a push to start button in. The keys are still required to be on the ON position to start. I'm thinking it was already an issue and they bandaged it with the push to start. How could I disable the starter firing for the ignition in the ON position? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 I forgot to mention the PO put a push to start button in. The keys are still required to be on the ON position to start. I'm thinking it was already an issue and they bandaged it with the push to start. How could I disable the starter firing for the ignition in the ON position? FUBAR. Get a schematic and put the ignition/starter circuit back to stock configuration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 I bought a 280ZX with a push button for the starter as well. Instead of spending $15 on a new ignition switch they mickey moused this thing together. It was more work to mickey mouse the switch in than to fix the problem in the first place. Get it back to stock as Miles said and you should be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 Probably has the wrong switch in the locking mechanism. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted December 25, 2013 Author Share Posted December 25, 2013 K I have a downloaded FSM and I will check the wiring when I can. Will I have to remove much to get to all this? I have lights and I can wiggle under the wheel and cluster area. Also, my car was an automatic that was covered to the nissan 5 speed by the previous owner. Can the inhibitor switches cause this? What do they look like, so I can remove them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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