WarlordZ Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 I installed the C6 LS3 pick-up tube, windage tray and oil pan today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarlordZ Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarlordZ Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 This morning I walked into the garage and looked right at the LS3 oil pan and it hit me. There was no provision for a dipstick tube. The LS2 dipstick goes into the side of the pan. I was really sweating it for a minute. I call my friend Tyree and he told me that the provision was in the side of the block just ahead of the starter. It looks like a very small freeze plug. I knocked it in about three seconds and installed the tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarlordZ Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 Then I used a punch to knock out the roll pin in the GTO offset lever and then installed the F-body offset lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) Awesome build! Really interested to see how it turns out with that oil pan. If you run out of money, be sure to butter up Mrs. Charlie so that when you are in the money again you can spend like a drunken sailor! Keep up the good work. If you have time, please post a link or a picture of the drive belt configuration you are going to use. The JCI instruction book assumes you will be using a stock L28 water temperature sender and a stock L28 oil pressure sender. If you decide to use aftermarket gauges, be sure to plan to use the senders that go with your gauges. If possible, I recommend using the oil pressure sender location at the back of the intake manifold as opposed to the location down near the oil filter. I put mine down there and it is the only leak on the whole car. I don't know the adapter part number, but it is out there in cyberspace. You were asking me about the low oil level sensor in the side of the pan-I left it in place; there is an aftermarket metal plug available to replace the big plastic piece, but I just left the big plastic plug since the price was right. Also, it looked brittle so I assumed I had an even chance that it would break off and create a parts delay. Its been fine for two years-no associated exhaust clearance issues. Edited February 26, 2014 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarlordZ Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) deleted Edited February 26, 2014 by WarlordZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarlordZ Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Let's try this again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Why not use an idler between the alternator and water pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarlordZ Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Why would I need it? The tensioner is still there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) Not much belt touching the water pump. Add a grooved pulley and it will give you a little more grip. Edited February 26, 2014 by mattd428 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarlordZ Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 After I asked that I studied the pic a little. It could use a little more bend so as that it touches the water pump pulley a little more. If everything goes right I'll be using an electric water pump and it will be a non issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 There has been some discussion, which I am certainly not qualified to dispute nor defend, about the appropriate contact length between a belt and a pulley. I guess there's nothing awful that will happen if the belt flies off or slips. Just keep an eye on your temp gauge. If it gives you trouble, just change it, but I wouldn't say that it is the devil, nor would I say that routing is awesome, but it certainly is clean, simple and straight forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarlordZ Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) Here is the electric water pump I want. http://www.speedengineeringlsx.com/meziere-ls-electric-street-water-pump-55-gpm-wp319 Edited February 26, 2014 by WarlordZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarlordZ Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) Here's a couple of part numbers for some pieces needed if you're not able to use a complete F-body pullout.-F-body offset lever for GTO T56...12523298-F-body rear alternator bracket...12556915-Bolts for above bracket^^^...11515767/11509666-C6 LS3 oil pan...12624617-C6 LS3 pick up tube...12624497-C6 LS3 windage tray...12558189-C6 LS3 dipstick and tube...12570788/12570787Now, whether or not the C6 LS3 pan is going to be ideal has yet to be seen. But just in case, there are the part numbers for future reference. Edited February 26, 2014 by WarlordZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock Car Mafia Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Warlord, how did your build end up going? I may or may not have just picked up an LS2/T56 combo and am doing some in depth reading Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.